Roundtuit

£180 (no vat) a couple of years ago. One man for a couple of hours with a big fan and a laptop!

Probably 100mm. Assuming your builder sourced it from a local merchants, you could always have phone round and see what they stock.

The measurement is the expanded material, not when its under compression. It typically comes in 100mm/150mm/200mm sizes, but there may be other sizes available. It doesn't really matter exactly what it is from a practical point of view; you'll still really need to put another 200mm in.

If the first layer isn't laid between the joists, there's bound to be passages for cold air to circulate and negate some of the benefit of the insulation. For minimal cost, and a few unpleasant itchy-scratchy, bang-your-head, back-aching hours, I'd re-lay it to my satisfaction, and top it up to 400mm. Then you know it's right ?

Looking good! You can shelve above and use it as an airing cupboard, and its always useful to have somewhere to dry a pair of boots overnight.

Try to negotiate directly, but I believe the small claims court process is fairly straightforward, particularly with the evidence you have, if needs be.

The stuff under the lintel is doing nothing much really; it looks like the frame was fitted after the stone was rendered. Unless you want to replace the frame, just foam and repoint as already suggested. Paint with something breathable - whitewash was traditional, high opacity emulsion would do it, or maybe a masonry paint (but perhaps that's not ideal for rendering over).

OK. If the lintel is basically sound, I'd repoint the bit you've done before you rake out any more mortar, and then do a bit at a time until it's complete. I see what you mean about cleaning up the stone. I'd probably re-point and paint it white first, and then if I didn't like it, render it and re-paint. And why are the curtains closed? You working naked again?? ?

Can you not just avoid spilling loads of water on the floor? I think that's what most people do.

Electrical conduit, surely? All ready for the sparky to pull the cable tomorrow morning! ?

If the timber is secure, just point-up around the reveals to make it look neat. If there's any movement in the timber or the gaps are particularly deep, a squirt of foam should help, and save you a bit of mortar.

Thanks! Wrap-around; easy enough to fit with a hacksaw and a pair of tin snips, (and it doesn't matter if the hole you cut in the gutter is a bit rough, 'cos the outlet covers it ?). I put the gutter in position first, then dropped a plumb line down to the where the underground drainage came up; mark and fit! If you Google 'youtube zambelli' you should find some 'how to' stuff.

It's Zambelli by the looks of it (logo is on the hopper), and yes, I installed it. I got it from Drain Depot, who were cheapest at the time, so if you've got a shopping list I'd punt it out to both and see if you can squeeze a bit more cost out! I'm impressed with the system; easy to cut to size and put together, looks and feels robust, and often admired by visitors. Took a pic earlier in the year when the sun was throwing interesting shadows on the cladding; it had been up 3 and a half years at that point.

There could be any number of reasons why your section has moved a bit, but at the end of the day , it's a garden wall, so unless it becomes so unstable as to present a risk to you or the public, then I'd just 'wallpaper'. The only real 100% fix would be to take it all down, put in fresh 'belt and braces' foundations to prevent future movement, and re-build. Based on the photos, I suspect most people won't judge it as actually needing repair.

You're going to be in sooo much trouble...

As above; looks like the quality of the wall and foundation isn't the best and there's been a bit of settlement. I don't think you can reasonably pin it on the hedge. There are garden walls like this everywhere; as @joe90 said, just point it up for now.

Can you move the thermostat to the new top room perhaps, then turn the radiators down anywhere that is getting too warm? As your controls are a bit limited, it might just be a case of playing around to 'balance' the system to suit maybe.

OK. I hesitate to ask, but is the room with the thermostat in nice and warm?

I'd get it checked definitely. I suspect there is some sort of lintel in there, but the whole thing looks odd tbh; leaving the old window arches in and making up the height with an infill window isn't the tidiest of jobs...

@zoothorn I'm sure you must have mentioned it somewhere, but can you remind me where the thermostats are please; one in each room? TRV's?

Maybe to keep a dog in or something?

All looks OK to me; not sure what the concern is really. The hedge looks pretty bare for the first 6 ft anyway. Trimming up anything overhanging the boundary on their side is seems fair and surely doesn't affect the view from your side, and measuring height from ground level immediately adjacent to the fence seems reasonable.

Have parts of the house been built at different dates perhaps? Looks like 'historical settlement'. A report to that effect should help to fend off any questions if it comes up.

Easy then! This worked for me: a wide, stiff scraper or similar (I think I used a scraper and a brick bolster, but proper plastic paddles are available), a bit of timber to protect the ali that you lever against, start where you can find a bit of flex in the trim (i.e mid-way between clips) and work towards a clip. Once you've popped the first couple of clips off, the rest are easier. Some of my clips broke a leg off as they were 'glued' in with paint but were all re-usable; if you needed new ones they look like they only cost pence.

I took some trim off mine off by prising it off with a wide scraper. It's attached by little plastic clips pinned in to the timber, but that doesn't release the 'glass bead'. I suspect it's going to be destructive...