Oz07

How durable are these thermoblocks. That outside render detail looks a right pita. Admittedly you wouldn't have to do this if using them on the inside skin of cavity wall but doesn't fill you with confidence. Is the thermal bridge on the bottom of a door cill that much worse than up the jambs that it justifies a row of these below frames? What about windows?!

Interesting on the cladding. Is it to do with being flammable? Also interesting about the lenders preferring to be on-board for purchase. I had a self build mortgage on my first and bought plot myself before getting a mortgage. Is it the case you can apply for the mortgage when you purchase and have the charge put onto the property then and only draw down funds when needed?

I dont think you need to stop the beads they are not going to wick. Cant they sit on the conc infill? I had dritherm bats so managed to keep 3" off conc with the ties but pretty sure eps could go down to bottom. I did the aircrete blocks kept dry on my current place. You dont nessecarily have to wrap the dpm back in although it would be neat. You will have another dpm at finished floor level anyway

They seemed to be an a standard part of the approval round here but I noticed them being dropped in last few years

I'd squirt some foam in there just to give the filler a bit of backing else you will just keep pushing it up?

With regards to s73 what dies this mean in laymans terms? Does it literally mean only altering the conditions not the plans? There is no statutory limit on the degree of change permissible to conditions under s73, but the change must only relate to conditions and not to the operative part of the permission.

Yes this would be dealt with in conveyancing. Its not been stated upto now so can't see it being the case. Yeh I was going to submit a pre app listing my changes and asking if they could be dealt with under a non mat. Like you say just marking the existing drawings. I will need to use someone for the building regs and pcc though so will eventually need the original drawings playing around with. I would get this double checked in conveyancing but If the agent has said the vendor has permission to use copyright (and presumably sell to new owner) i have to assume i am good? I was just unsure where you stand when you start tweaking. Maybe its a question for conveyancer to explicitly ask during conveyancing. Ie does vendor have permission to pass on copyright to existing plans including making any changes buyer would want to make or something similar?

Can you cut the boards like 15 or 20mm short of the cavity width. Couple of bits of duct tape to hold in place with even gap ea side then just run the foam gun down both sides? I always prefer a bigger gap to foam, smaller gaps always struggle. When cutting pir between joists on floor refurb i did this and just banged some nails half in sides of joists pushed board down onto these. Admittedly I was trying to stop wind washing not get airtight. Might not work in this scenario just a thought

With regards to the plot i am looking at. I have been told the vendors have copyright permission to use the plans. I have done a bit of searching on here and elsewhere but not quite sure where I stand. I like the plot and the shape of the house but would want to make a few changes to apertures on the elevations, outside material finishes and lose the green roof. If I buy the plot and employ a different architect to tweak the design where do I stand with the copyright? Do you become liable for anything? Does the original architect see this as stealing his basic concept and just fluffing it up to change or do they accept this when selling the copyright to the original client for planning? Thanks

Screws are brittle nails are soft. So screws can snap where a nail will bend. Maybe just nail with a hammer for what you need

For face fit masks id say

I prefer electric but personal preference. Elec quieter when you get power

Ive got stop end in redundant one

What model are these units?

I didn't go with fixed line in current place due to OR needing to put a pole in front of my house and i didn't want it. Just stuck with 4g. However i have a duct there to the front and fibre in the footpath so would be an easy upgrade. Why do people advise against a fixed line? Is it the ongoing line rental cost?

Where did you get the 100 per m figure?

I'm not sure if there is a road to cross or not depends what side of the road existing utilities are on. Not too fussed about that as would be within the connection quote. Was more trying to gauge the cost of the work on private land.

If they are delivered soaking wet and weighing a tonne they shouldn't split when nailing. Its mainly dry timber that splits. Roofer i use insists on hand nailing battens.

I was aware of the 750 - 1350 requirement from water utility provider just wanted clarification on the 'deep ploughed' situation cheers. 1M bucket no wonder the spoil pile looks massive! Next step really is to get a quote off Western Power. Just hoping they are happy to lay cable in an open trench but if they might start specifying all silly h&s rules if trench is over 1m deep due to 'deep ploughed' requirement.

Whats that a 600 bucket been used? Is that for separation between services? I would go for longer continuous water pipe if available. The easement is shaped so its along the edge of the field presumably away from ploughing area. Maybe still have to go deeper who sets the depth rules water board? Did anyone see the pipe burier clarkson had in clarksons farm? Great bit of kit just went on back of his tractor. Not sure how would cope with bends though.

Sounds like sub 4k for the bulk of the private work then and whatever the usual connection cost is. Round here its usually the same again 3 or 4 k. I would be happy to get change from 10k at that length.

The plot I am looking at has an easement through a neighbouring field for the utility connections. Unfortunately the route is approx 220m long and has 3 90deg bends in it. I am trying to get an idea for utility costings. I can do the work on the field side but obviously need the utility companies for the small bit at the road connection. Water isn't too much of an issue. Long trench with long pipe. Albeit a few joins. Maybe a duct and maybe have the welded joint if possible. Shouldn't imagine cost is any more than usual for the actual connection. Elec presents more of an issue. I had a service put in once where I had dug and installed the duct and it made me ill when I spotted the 63mm cable they had rolled up ready to pull through. Luckily it was straight trench and my duct laying must of been okay because it pulled through fine. They did lift up half the digger and use one of the tracks as a winch to pull the drawcord. How would you go about it in this case? I can't see a cable threading through a 90 deg bend very well and 220m is a hell of a distance. What is the usual procedure? Leave holes every so often and at bends? Leave the trench open and let the utility company (western power) just lay the cable straight in? Would they even let you do this or would they want to back fill so cable isn't exposed? Does anyone have any idea of costs when it comes to a connection like this? Do they charge by the metre or is each job individual? I would guess the connection at the road end makes up the bulk of the cost with the digging and traffic management. Telecom I am guessing is not too bad. I have had Openreach supply me duct and cable before and I have buried this and installed the cable ready for the engineers to come and connect up. Thanks

Ive used twin drum ride on roller before theyre not too expensive to hire.

The membranes are magic at distributing the weight but you'd deffo want to be lower than aby soil it will just liquefy. You can use a good thickness of 6f2 to make up the levels it will cover more m2 to the tonne than type 1

No i think you'd still need expansion here. Cant you get a t bar in the same finish as floor will only protrude 7mm or so