Alan Ambrose
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Everything posted by Alan Ambrose
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OK thanks, so Octopus is a candidate. >>> They have already been twice before over the last 18 months to fit a smart meter, only to find out it was 3 phase @Blooda - it would be great if you could report back. I had a similar thing with an electricity supplier (the mists of time mean I can't remember who). Very frustrating but hopefully we've all moved forward since then . Alan
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Frost Settings - how low can you go?
Alan Ambrose replied to Alan Ambrose's topic in Electrics - Other
>>> What frost settings are you talking about? Well I have a Heatmiser set-up, but pretty much the same thing applies even if you have a gas-combi and a single thermostat. I guess I mean in this case 'frost setting' as in 'even if you don't have the heating schedule 'on' - at what temperature do you want the heating to start working anyway to avoid the pipes freezing?' I realise other vendors have other terms. And I realise that heat pumps, MHVP etc have their own set-ups, which may or may not be configurable, to avoid stuff freezing inside their machinery. Alan -
Hi, I recently installed the Bright app and made a connection to my old BG smart meter. Incidentally, the electricity is currently supplied by Eon.Next who are not picking up the smart data, but Bright is. Duh. Well success, and I spotted yesterday some usage in early morning and evening which surprised me - because I'm not there atm. Seems I had some frost settings set too high at 16 degrees. So, I lowered them to 12 degrees. Now I know you can set the frost settings too low (ask my neighbour who now has a blown UFH set-up). But the question is - how low can you (do you?) reasonably but safely go? Alan
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>>> The planning application has been one of the quickest bits so far. Oh I see - I only put my first offer in (don't ask) for the land on 2nd Feb and have yet to exchange contracts (don't ask). My pre-app went in on 20th September. And around here, you're likely to get only a vague single paragraph response to your pre-app. Alan
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>>> Presumably they won’t take calls and this is all via email? Both - I have had the odd reply by email, often it is just ignored. Same with the phone - once I got through, otherwise I leave a message which is ignored. 11 weeks !!! It would be quicker for me to move to Scotland Alan
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Hi, I'm interested in what kind of turnaround times people are getting with their local planning department? Also, how you nudge them along? Also, whether they generally keep to any of their quoted deadlines? I have a local planner who told me on 5th Oct that his response to our pre-app was 'already drafted and would be with me shortly'. And then he said that again on the 19th Oct. Guess what? This is for a plot in East Suffolk that already has permission for a dwelling - we want to just vary the design. A neighbour has had an application for a new dwelling in since February with no apparent planning activity since May ... TIA, Alan
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12 Meter Test Sidewall to Main Elevation Query
Alan Ambrose replied to Hawkwind1879's topic in Planning Permission
The hatches are your extension? I'm guessing they're interpreting the 12m as an arc rather than a rectangle? Alan -
Most efficient way to run ashp
Alan Ambrose replied to Jvh2012's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
>>> 200mm fluffy is that an SI unit? - it should be along with 2 inches jumpery and 1 chain fleecy… -
I just noticed that one of my favourite youtubers, Marco Reps, replaced the Steibel 27kW instantaneous water heater in his house with a Kospel EPME 5.5-9kW one. For our German cousins, instantaneous water heater seem to be a standard thing. And because these devices are so simple, they seem to be very reasonably priced - about £500 & £300 respectively. I can't imagine that 'the Germans' would put up with anything dodgy. Anyone know why these are not more widely used in the UK? Alan
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>>> I think the general consensus is that solar thermal is at best marginal compared to PV. Excuse my ignorance, but I don't quite understand how a fairly low tech sun->water/pump->copper loop->DHW system is not cost effective compared to a fairly high-tech sun->PV panel->inverter->immersion->DHW system? I'm not doubting that you're right - but just wanting to understand how 'loads-of-expensive-tech' works better than a 'low-tech-sun-heats-hot-water'. I know that our continental cousins use the latter and they have more sun but...? TIA, Alan
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Robin Clevett and his various pals e.g. Skill Builder have a few Youtube tips. Alan
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Checking to see if smart meter is on the SMETS2 network
Alan Ambrose replied to Radian's topic in Electrics - Other
Goodness the quality of the UK government systems for its citizens is atrocious - and I suspect atrocious and expensive. For example, the land registry website looks like something from the '80s and as far as I can see you have to go through checkout for every single property you're interested in. Hmmm, let me see UK productivity is ... shocking. Why is that, I wonder? Alan -
>>> Of course this places greater demands on the environment being clear of obstacles. I see that PVGIS has a feature to handle that if you're a proper nerd - which I guess I am. >>> Also worth noting that if you plan to export at current rates (£0.15) it tends to dwarf any other small optimisations to just maximise total generation. Just go with South/40 degrees and you're done? You bring up an interesting point though which is that given export is worth anywhere between 2x and 6x less than reduced import, then we should focus not on summer peak but maximising the other seasons? Below are graphs from PVGIS of generation by month and generation by season for various roof slopes (all for a south facing roof). The concussions are: + for max total generation roof slope of 30-50 degrees is good. + for max non-summer generation, slope of 40-60 degrees is good. + if you weight the value of the winter electricity (to account for better value of those units), 40-50 degrees is good. Maybe I didn't discover anything new - except maybe a slope of 50 is a bit better overall than a slope of 40. Alan
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>>> vertical mounted panels Ah, interesting ... PVGIS gives this for south facing vertical. Although 27% less than the optimum 40 degrees pitch roof, it has wider 'shoulders'. Alan
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3 phase Pole in middle of intended driveway
Alan Ambrose replied to CalvinHobbes's topic in Electrics - Other
Depending on your DNO it may be very hard or slightly less hard to get them to move the pole at their expense. The bad news might be expensive. It does look pretty end-of-life though and the stay isn't doing anything - you could ask how old it is and when it'll be coming up for replacement. Or what would happen if you report it as unsafe. Which DNO? Alan -
Ah, it occurred to me that there are two other practical difficulties with 3-phase: + it's hard to get a 3-phase smets2 meter installed - see e.g. Octopus 'no can do'. + 3-phase also makes PV install and battery much more expensive and probably less efficient. That's because (a) you'll probably need 3-batteries and 3-inverters etc, and (b) you'll have to balance all the house loads (which are nearly all on single phase circuits except maybe GSHP and high-power instantaneous water-heaters) against the PV / inverter / battery set-up on those individual phases. Alan
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>>> if you split SE/SW you might see some extra benefit See below - the same thing with SE+SW. So apparently not much benefit in deliberately splitting the roof orientation away from South. But ... less harm of course in doing SE+SW so as you only lose 1% / 8% / 16% of best case Southerly output in Summer / Shoulder / Winter respectively. Numbers for straight E+W are 6% / 25% / 49%. >>> If you're looking to size a battery Yeah, for battery I need to model daily consumption data plus some indication of the variation in generation. Alan
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Hi, I've been fiddling around with PVGIS daily data vs. roof orientation - actually the objective was to get an idea of battery sizing. This is for East Suffolk, 30 degree roof pitch. I think I've figured out that ... if you have the option ... that south facing panels really are better than split East/West panels. Maybe that's not a surprise, but I was assuming/hoping that splitting East/West would be very handy in order to flatten and widen the output curve - which would provide more useful power. Well it looks like it does a little bit in summer, but in spring and autumn and winter it seems to not help at all. See below: Alan
