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I also would like to do this ideally, but in practice I left it too late. The second fixers wanted to close up the plaster board today and I just didn’t get my act together in time to sort out what I wanted. I was a bit annoyed about it to begin with because this was a great example of my perfectionism getting in the way of actually making a decision, but I’ve now realised that and accepted that an imperfect solution where I either don’t have a proper surround setup and just have a decent sound bar, or I have one that requires me to conceal the wires in recesses behind skirting will be fine. It all went to pot when I realised that the only place for the TV was in the corner of a room, which is never easy to make work with a 5.1 system. Then I learned about Atmos and I allowed myself to believe that I simply had to have it, even though 10 days ago I would have been very happy without it. It’s easy to get lost in a labyrinth of materialism. I may just go for a 3.1 system and progressively increase the volume on my Center speaker as I get older/deafer, as others have suggested here. Just thought that photo that I posted (which is not mine) was funny as it shows the lengths some people will go to to convert their living room into something that I would find hard to live in.

I found this photo on the web and wondered what other people's configurations look like. Anyone managed to camouflage massive speakers into their living room or does the set-up below not bother you?

Well if it is not as well established as the product you thought you were paying for, then this is really poor on your contractor's behalf and he should be rectifying it for free and apologising profusely. I really feel for you, as it seems your contractor has cut corners without your permission. Your remedy would be for him to, test the UFH pipes are okay, fix if not, make good the cracks and leave the screed in the condition you expected it in. What is your floor finish on top of the screed, as if all the cracks are going to be hidden, it should be quite straightforward for him to patch it up. Or are you concerned about the structure of the screed and the integrity of the UFH pipes? I think it's unlikely they will have been damaged but I'm no expert. If there is any problem with the pipes, then that is going to be harder to fix, but still fixable.

This means that your builder might not actually have erred by using the wrong product. Unless there is some objective inferiority in the product that can be pointed to. There could still be issues with the installation method though. Did he run the UFH heating too soon or two high after the pour?

I placed an order for 17m art deco style cornice (not even that big, 50mm drop by 80mm projection) and a 500mm diameter ceiling rose. Came to £180 which was more than I was expecting, but I guess it's cast to order etc. Then was about to check out and they want £65 for delivery on top. Seems a lot. Where do you get your cornices from and how much do you pay?

Does anybody have Alexa in their bathroom? How did you achieve this? Is it simply a case of putting in a socket and small shelf high enough that it is away from water sources (I think min distance for a socket in a bathroom is 3m from bath or shower) or did you do something more sophisticated like wire in ceiling speakers? Or is it easier to just get a waterproof battery operated smart speaker.

Is this what you had in mind: https://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/product/chopped-strands-6-mm

These speakers suggest that placement at the top of my wall, just before it touches the ceiling, is possible: https://www.svsound.com/products/prime-elevation?cjevent=36bca1da6d7811ec804b1a950a18050d&utm_channel=affiliate&utm_source=CommissionJunction&utm_term=Skimlinks&utm_content=SVS+Subwoofers&utm_campaign=CJaff&afsrc=1&cjdata=MXxZfDB8WXww The only alternative is that I move my cinema area from my "study" to the kids playroom which will also double up as their TV room. This is a much more regularly shaped room with a flat ceiling as opposed to a vaulted one. The problem is that my 5 year old daughter's bedroom is directly above that, so any very loud cinema system in the room below will wake her. Although we are soundproofing the ceiling by using resilient bars, mineral wool between the voids and two layers of soundboard, if I were to fit ceiling speakers, surely that would compromise the soundproofing of the ceiling? Is it better to leave the ceiling unbroken and add floor based speakers that bounce the sound off the ceiling? Anyone used those to good effect?

interesting that they don't actually publish dB levels and instead just certify the 10% to 20% quietest appliances in each category annually. Query what the range of dB difference there is between the market leading appliance which is in the top 1% and the appliance which just makes the certification at 20%

Interesting idea, though potentially not without risk. This item, for example, states "do not apply to [sic] thick as exotherm will generate making the mix reach high temperatures" not sure what that actually means though.

What would this achieve? The surface finish isn't that important, as it will be covered. But it does need to be level/flat.

Here is a picture showing the concrete plinth on the bottom and then the steel rods and steel plate we are planning to put on top (the pictures are showing it floating in mid air, but it will be screwed down onto the plinth). To give a bit more explanation, the overall height of the top surface needs to be 430mm from FFL. This was going to be achieved by 410mm cast concrete PLUS 18mm of cuboidal hollow steel rods arranged in a sort of ladder formation (though my diagram omits the “rungs”) and then 2mm thick steel sheet, bent over the side of the front-most rod to give the appearance of a 20mm steel plate at the top, but at a much reduced cost. wood burning stove going on top of the steel plate (either side of where i have drawn the hole for the air supply pipe) My concern is that actually, the top of the concrete is not level. At places it is 410mm as intended, but at other places it is 10mm to 15mm too short. My builder’s plan is to level it with self levelling compound. Is this the best way to fix this issue - won’t it just crack?

This would suggest my architect is incompetent, as he has basically suggested buying different bits and bobs from different suppliers so as to meet his conception of the design, even though he knows full well that we need FD30 compliance.

Because my main contractor counted the number of electrical sockets/switches and smoke and heat alarms and then gave me a price based on those numbers. Any changes after the tender docs was charged as extra. But it depends on how important your lighting scheme is to you. For me, it was crucial that the main contractor understood that we were using recessed iluminos LED pipe in certain locations as the ceiling detail to accommodate these is quite technical.

I’m only slightly kicking myself now for not planning ahead better, as the ceiling above the area of my “study” where I was thinking of having a cinema area is not flat, but slanted at 45 degrees. it has already been plastered anyway so not an option to reopen the ceiling now. An option that is still available to me is to fit the “ceiling” speakers high up on a stud wall that is still to be built in that room, near where the stud wall meets the ceiling, creating a 135 degree angle. But I’m assuming that is too far from optimal to make atmos worthwhile. Alternatively I already have an old 5.1 set up, that has some fairly nice floor mounted or wall mounted speakers. If I use the speakers from that, could I add two more to give me some sort of atmos capability, or an I better off just going for an old style 7.1 and forget atmos altogether?

Just thought I'd refresh this thread in case anybody had any further thoughts about Dolby Atmos, particularly whether it is worthwhile when not installing ceiling speakers. I have a fairly good sized area of my "study" where I will have a sofa that will be my cinema area. I'm considering one of these set-ups, as I've left it a little bit late to put wires in for my rear speakers, although this could still be done by buying rebated skirting board: LG SN11RG (https://www.richersounds.com/lg-sn11rg-black.html) Philips B97/10 (https://www.richersounds.com/philips-b97-10-black.html) I was put off the Dolby Atmos not having much content available, as most of my collection is on BluRay from about 10 years ago, and I rarely buy any hard copy stuff these days, instread streaming most stuff.

Can anyone recommend some wooden drawer inserts or drawer dividers to go into some kitchen drawers, the external width of which are: 900mm 800mm 500mm Something like this bamboo one would work for the 500mm one, except that the compartments are a bit too small, as we are not going to use this for cuttlery, but for large serving spoons, spatulas, fish slice etc.

Door seals on the doors, including a dropper seal, should make a difference. Soundstop do a dropper seal for about £60 which looks decent. Lorient make one with a floor plate that provides an even better seal. As will sticking a bunch of insulating material on back of doors.

Well, the tender drawings really need to show everything if you want comparable quotes. Can’t really be too prescriptive in my advice as I have no idea what you are building and what spec you are going for, but here are some examples of the things you need to cover: What insulation are you using and in what order and thicknesses? The build up of every wall floor and ceiling should be specified, including whether you are using resilient bars. If you are using resilient bars, for example, I would also specify genie clips over standard ones. And after experiencing a misunderstanding with my builder, i would also specify details such as which type of glue you want for essential things such as chipboard flooring. I specified Egger peel clean flooring, and even though they instructions specified to use Egger glue, my builder used a standard D4 glue initially. Once I spotted this, I insisted he use Egger’s version. It is also D4, but it is expanding D4 glue. What air tightness measures are you implementing? Which tapes and which thicknesses? Primer spray as well? Electrical drawings and reflected ceiling drawings should also be very detailed showing location of all switches and at least the number and type of of sockets in each room. Where you have non standard features like two or three way lighting your drawings should also specify this. You should also be really clear as part of your tender pack what you will be supplying materials-wise and what you expect others to supply. You probably also want to think about glass spec in all glazing. 2G or 3G. Solar control? If so, which type/colour. Safety features of rooflights? PAS24 ? I’m barely scratching the surface…

Thanks. Just had a look at their online catalogue. Although it is extensive, they don’t have the particular door im after unfortunately. Worth a try though.

I'm looking for a White Primed Internal Flush FD30 Fire Door in a 2032mm by 813mm size. I want what I think is called a "blank" i.e. no mouldings, just a plain door that has been primed ready to be painted. All the suppliers I've found are quoting a 4 - 8 week lead time! Anybody know any that might be able to do this more quickly. This should be a stock item!

In other news, I got lost in Approved Document B and stumbled upon a section which seems to suggest that my expensive MVHR system installed by a reputable MVHR specialist company does not comply with building regs. Section states: Page 14 of Approved Document B (2019 edition) states: Air circulation systems 2.8 Air circulation systems which circulate air within an individual dwellinghouse with a floor more than 4.5m above ground level should meet the guidance given in paragraph 2.9. 2.9 All of the following precautions should be taken to avoid the spread of smoke and fire to the protected stairway. Transfer grilles should not be fitted in any wall, door, floor or ceiling of the stair enclosure. Any duct passing through the stair enclosure should be rigid steel. Joints between the ductwork and stair enclosure should be fire-stopped. Ventilation ducts supplying or extracting air directly to or from a protected stairway should not serve other areas as well. Any system of mechanical ventilation which recirculates air and which serves both the stair and other areas should be designed to shut down on the detection of smoke within the system. For ducted warm air heating systems, a room thermostat should be sited in the living room. It should be mounted at a height between 1370mm and 1830mm above the floor. The maximum setting should be 27°C. The system they have installed definitely does not comply with 2.9(b) because all of our ducts are plastic; and depending on the definition of "transfer grilles", the system may not comply with 2.9(a) as we definitely have an air supply vent in the stairwell. Not really sure why we have one there, but we do. Not sure about 2.9(d). A search of the Renovent Flair 400 PLUS manual for "fire" or "detect" did not bring up anything useful. I guess that could be set up as an aftermarket feature, but simply incredible that the company that have sold me this appear to have fallen very short of building regs compliance. How can that be! This is why I hate reading into building regs!

Thanks @PeterW that would be much appreciated.

I'm now finding further stuff online suggesting that the 25mm thickness door stop dates back to before intumescent strips were used. Looking for a more authorative source within Approved Document B itself, but as is always the case with government produced literature, it is so badly organised taking me a bit of time to find the right section. I agree with @Big Jimbo that they will look shite if routed into the door. Although I've seen some literature online to suggest that the intumescent strips can be painted over without compromising their effectiveness.

I'm still learning the lingo. Presumably door stops are the strips of wood that stop the door from opening both ways? Kicking myself as I now see the same company that I've bought the door linings from also sell the same version with "loose stops". Query why they don't sell all of their door linings with loose stops. If the regs require that I have stop not less than 25mm wide and 38mm long, am I going to lose 50mm (25mm on each side) of doorway width from all of my doorways!!!