craig

It's the mechanism on the top hung, they generally aren't that great for weight, you're on the verge, if you want to send me a msg I can see what I can do to help.

Sorry, but whoever sold it to you, should be put in front of the firing squad. They just fail here in the UK, they are the most troublesome type of sliding door available. If it's a rented property, the easiest sliding door is what I call a gliding door (slides on the track, rather than lift and slides, or tilt and slides).

A different approach required then, as you're externally beading them, not much different to be honest, still use the glazing tape but on the face of the rebate, offer the glass up, then bead but I'd suggest drilling some angle holes to the front (slot left, slot right should be fine), no more than 30mm. You can bead the glazing beads with pins, but nice to have a little bit of space between the bead and the glass, just so you can put some soudal around, this will help with water getting in the glazed area but if it does, the slots would help with drainage. If you use the glazing tape, you'll also have a little bit of a gap from the frame to the glass on the inside, a little but of soudal on the inside as well around the frame/glass. Putty would work just as well inside and out (if you preferred a putty finish).

Is the inside view or the external view?

Forgot to say, good job on the frame, looks good.

Unlikely, just ensure you leave enough space from the frame to the glass, 5mm or 6mm would be recommended. Put glazing tape around the frame, where the glass meets the frame (face), externally seal with silicone (soudal) on the inside use soudal as well and you can hide the fixing nail for the bead (see below) Externally, you will need a drip rail on the frame, so that the water doesn't pool at the frame/glass. Have you allowed for any drainage if water gets past the silicone/putty and in the rebate area? The frame rebate is flat, so the water would pool and rot eventually, you should allow it to drain through the frame and out the bottom at the front face (som drill holes) and then put some cover caps on it.

That's slightly incorrect, things have changed. Pre 2022 in England and Wales Window and doors with 60% glazed area 1.2 W/m2K Other doors 1.0W/m2K Upper limit all windows and doors (average/weighted) 1.6 W/m2K Post 2023 (June) All aspects, 1.4 W/m2k https://www.bwf.org.uk/bwf-blog/updated-requirements-for-u-values-in-new-build-and-existing-dwellings/ Scotland Target U value of 1.4W/m2K and upper limit (average/weighted) 1.6W/m2K https://www.gov.scot/publications/building-standards-technical-handbook-2022-domestic/6-energy/6-2-building-insulation-envelope/

Sometimes easier to call the suppliers/manufacturers direct, they won't list them on Gumtree or ebay (not always), they tend to sit in storage in the hope they can recover their losses at some point. That and they don't like to advertise that they ****ed up.

Fantastic, glad to hear it. My only request is a pit stop and a coffee whenever I'm up/down the M1/M6 lol

Down is usually release, up is usually pull (or is it the other way around on these, it's been a while).

Unless the height needs adjusted, no - the arrows are showing the direction of movement, you shouldn't need to remove cover under the hinge. Thats for height adjustment, the clamping/fixing screw for the hinge don't always need undone but some hinges you do. You should be able to adjust the lateral (side/side movement) of the door with the middle adjustment nut as shown.

You might need to loosen hinge fixing screws to adjust, refer to the video - these hinges are not all the same but a good idea to take some of the weight of the opening sash.

@zoothorn have you managed to have a look at the adjustment? did it work?

These are most likely Jeld-Wen windows btw, not that great.

Simple answer, s***e frame or the glazing is something like 28/36mm and a s***e frame.

You'd be surprised. Internorm for example offer a purenit transport bead on their windows, I've known suppliers to not add it, making the window full height and nowhere for the window cill to be added, meaning the opening needs increased or new window. If all windows are the same, they all are wrong and need the opening amended or the whole order reordered (it's happened). Tiny little mistakes can ruin an entire order and expensive to rectify, whether building or order related.

If not a available, they do tend to accept therm calculations.

Forgot the headline grabbing claim values, they may and probably are accurate, ask for the Uf values, aluminium is by default far worse than timber. However, however, the material they are using for the thermal break may be make a big difference or they still need to add in insulation into the chambers. Which is usually an extra and not standard.

I do, you are absolutely correct, I was on my phone and I call that the "fat finger syndrome". Thank you for picking that up.

U Values, the bain of my life. Something you need to be careful with. Most well known European suppliers will give you the Uw, others will give you the G value. To break it down. Uw is the whole window value tested according to the industry standard and is all four sides of the frame, glass including spacer and and feature bars/astricals/georgian bars. G is just the glass, no frame. Be careful, as some suppliers will give you the calculated unit performance including G value which does change based on window size. However, for PHPP for example, you want the actual G value as shown on the test certificate i.e 0.53 - if unsure ask the supplier/manufacturer and if they are unsure, just ask for the glass certificate from the glass supplier or ask for the specification and add it to Euroglas/Guardian or Saint Gobain glass calculator. That will give you the answer.

Trial and error to be honest, an experienced eye would be able to judge but it definitely looks like you need to pull in the too hinges and possibly release the bottom a little.

Tape measure/string, corner to corner diagonally on door sash and you’ll have your answer.

Just checked, it is 9mm.

It’s either 8mm or 10mm, can’t recall from top of my head to be honest.

This is the type of hinge you have, it's known as an SFS hinge. An adjustment video can be seen here It might not be the exact same, but remove the covers. Is toe and healing the glass in this door, going to make a huge difference? Highly unlikely, the glass isn't a full panel of glass, it is 50% (approx) glass, 50% panel, with a transom midway. From what I'm seeing, the likely cause is a sash drop and the top 2 hinges need adjusted to move the door laterally.