craig

1: Location. 2: Window manufacturer/brand 3: Bought by installer or made by them? 4: photos/videos? Let us know and we can assist if we can.

Result.

Understood, it’s clear that changes have been requested some pre and some post sign off. Number one rule I try my best to follow, is do not accept a sign off unless you have gone through the order and the client knows what they are buying and 100% confident no changes required. The sign off should be exactly what you are ordering. Second rule is, no changes post sign off, as deposit will have been invoiced/paid and order raised to the factory. They usually charge for changes post sign off (you sign off to supplier, supplier has to sign off order to manufacturer).

Where the confirmations before or after the signed order? It’s what is on the signed order report that’s important here. Clearly they have ****ed up and not followed instructions. As for extra costs incurred for two tone, I still don’t get that tbh. and I’m in the industry. Timber is sprayed inside and out the same colour/lacquer. Aluminium cladding is from their supplier and powder coated. Different colour costs for two tone, just don’t make sense. They don’t have to change the spray booth to paint the cladding a different colour. Trust me, sanding, spraying will not be done or offered. The costs alone are prohibitive. It’s make a deal on what you have, they accept and make new windows or a legal battle.

What did you sign off and approve? Communication is great and that clear instructions have been supplied but generally, speaking 1: no finish by factory and just plain wood, invalidates any warranties (usually). 2: Signed order is yours or your appointees responsibility to check, amend/approve. They could play hardball here, what you signed is what you ordered. Do they have any responsibility? Morally I would say yes but contractually is a different thing. Edit: Of course they won’t be wanting the windows returned, they’ll need to reorder the whole order at their cost. Are the windows all the right size, just internally the wrong colour? Be prepared to negotiate. This will have a negative impact on the build, additional costs incurred for other trades and you. Think of accepting a settlement at 50% refund and go from there.

The adjusment is usually +/-3mm, the distance varies on system but HF410/HF510 you're look at 13.5mm distance between frame and sash (timber to timber), the keeper is roughly 8/10mm in height and the mushroom sits inside the keeper when locked.

Numpty was on his phone and couldn’t see them for looking at them and they’re grey. So it is clear I now need glasses. Still reckon to low or too much to the side, meaning a slight adjustment required.

I don't see any seals on the pictures supplied but I do see the gearing mechanism and in particular the mushroom pin on the first picture. It "may" be that the sash is needing adjusted in width/height as the pin is to close to the locking keep.

Context, would need to see a picture of what you are referring to, as @markc as said, is it actual glazing bars (astragals/georgian feature bars) or is it the glazing beads that retain the glass. Glazing beads can be internal and external, it's a lot to do with the system in used but it would be unusual for them to be inside and outside on the same unit. Where the sides coupled (i.e. seperate to the french doors)? If yes, then side windows would "appear" to be on the wrong way around.

You can use a simpler method. All the integrated one is doing, is effectively turning a stopper to prevent the window going into the turn position and allowing tilt only. a simpler method is using a screw at the relevant point on the mushroom pin, preventing the pin going in the direction of turn/tilt.

Where did you get the door from? What is the make/model? Do you have any pictures?

Solar glass is a minefield of different options/coatings etc. I try to avoid it if and when possible (which isn't always the case) but options exist. Most glazing suppliers will offer solar coatings but not all do (such as Everest). Why do I avoid? Light transmission, Solar coatings really darken up the glazing units and I personally don't like the look. I'd much rather go for external shading components, such as trees, brise soleil, canopies etc.

It’s unlikely that they have, unfortunately, it will be within acceptable tolerances. You’ll need to ask what those are and whether they accept any liability. I suspect not. Don’t try and cut it, it’ll end up in disaster.

Old cottage you say, do you have any wall vents?

What Nick said.

It's about how it is worded, it is likely to be part of the wording for renovation replacement but if you could paste the entire wording for context, that would help. Generally speaking though, on a new build, it's inputting the windows, fixing method, PU foam, airtightness tapes and externals left to others.

Whats your location @Talaidh?

No, I leave that to those trained and qualified to install and maintain the products. Everyone “thinks” it’s easy to do but it’s far from easy.

We’ll agree to disagree.

We both could post examples all day, don’t deny it but it is a trade but I do agree that there is a substantial amount of unskilled installers.

Yip, trained on product and factory approved and GGF standards on installation. The problem of chuck them in and worry about it later. I’m not saying you’re not capable, I’m just saying in my experience it’s an issue. Additionally, warranties can be void as a result of not using an approved installer.

I disagree, your joiner and or yourself aren’t trained on the operational aspects and in my experience, it causes more heartache than paying an installation team. It becomes an issue when the installation team/supplier takes on things and expect the install team to do it. Not necessarily having the knowledge or experience.

Velfac/Rationel are notorious for suddenly knocking 5/10/15k off a price. To me, it’s taken the piss to see what they can get away with and completely dishonest imho. I’m not saying it’s them directly but give the best price that you can in the first instance.

Usually you just pop it out, window sits on the bottom hinge, you support the bottom corner (opposite side) then lift it out. You need to turn it outwards (clip) away from the frame, not in. I usually also turn the window, the push the faulty operation device to allow tilt to happen in the turn position. It’s easier that way. It’s pretty straight forward.

It’s possible but you don’t generally don’t get better deals by going direct. You might if they deal with the end consumer but they all tend to use official suppliers and do not deal with the consumer. Consultancy work is something I’m currently looking into but theres a lot of things to be considered. They’re just suppliers at the end of the day.