Alexphd1

Bit of cost and we want to do as much as the build ourselves. No pictures yet apart from the gulley we are hoping to start in next few weeks, the rolls have been lying in the garage for 12 months. Should work out somewhere between £35 and £40m2. We have a friend with a 3 meter computer folder so thinking about doing the rwg aswell.

Not zinc but we where quoted approx £140m2 for 280m2 in standing seam stainless . Excluding rwg. Went down the DIY route instead.

All depends on spec and how dirty you get your hands. Hands off main contractor £2km2, doing 99% yourself over a few years and shopping around (ebay/gumtree etc) for everything £750m2 .

I am sure that myson ones are the same as the heatmiser ones. If that's the case dave, you would save me a fortune. We are running the upstairs rads of a ufh manifold so we can control flow temps of the thermal store and was planning on using basic danfoss room stats.

It says a liquidation and they have been running this auction every couple weeks with similar stuff for last few weeks. The last one finished on Tuesday and I am picking up Friday morning so will report back. I bought a mix of glass shower panels, radiators and mirrors. The glass shower panels and mirrors went at opening value but radiators went approx £20-30 over opening bids. Remember to add up all costs though inc vat to be added.

Regarding attaching ewi to eps icf have a look at @Stones blog, he mentions it there. Cheers Jeremy, am I last on your list??? ??

The heatmiser do look good. Just ordered a danfoss icon touch prog roomstat, this a euro type fitting so will be adding black nickel schneider euro surround to match my light switches.

Another idea.... say you add on extra 200mm EWI would it be possible to cut the ewi into a tight curve into the windows? i think this would be a nice detail!

Back in the day..... Scratching my head a bit on ufh stats. We used to fit a central timer with a dial stat in each room tbh worked pretty good. This was the original plan and I have all the parts (danfoss/uponor) lying in loft to do this but after reading a comment these stats are not accurate enough for PH level of build possibly overshooting the room temperatures. I have lost touch with what's hot what's not, so what stats/controls has everybody else got? Not interested in any wifi/apps based stat or RF must be hard wired. Would prefer something that is not a cheap white plastic or worse a silver plastic (the heatmiser neo looks nice in pictures). Always found previous generations of danfoss controls easy to work/set up.

@Conor just a idea. What insulation spec of ICF are you looking at? If your going for a high insulation build maybe possible to use basic eps icf then add on another layer EWI as @Stones done with amvic icf. My quick calculation was this would have saved me a fair bit of £ doing this with nudara icf instead of buying a wide block and the extra 150mm inserts to beef the uvalues. Also a lot faster to put up ICF. I will investigate this further myself for next build, as they say every day is a school day!

Think Jamie used polarwall, quick question Jamie, did you use a poker with the polarwall?

https://www.bidspotter.co.uk/en-gb/auction-catalogues/timed/william-george-auctions/catalogue-id-wi412543 Maybe of a interest to somebody, same stuff as soak.com

Quick check from a buildhub thread feb last year. 100mm deep eps300 worked out about £12m2 and eps 100 £5m2. Tbh you don't actually need a lot (depending on the load bearings of walls) of eps300 most of the floor is 300mm of eps100.

Connor, what ever you do you will need a engineer to design this, whether it's designed by the supplier or a independent structural engineer and shop around for material that's your call. A few people on here have used Tanner Structural Design from South Ireland but if you need a SER certificate they can't issue them now (i have been caught out here). Nothing stopping you assembling your own L forms, Another person on here think @Triassic done exactly this very successfully. *sorry I have repeated most of what Jeremy has already said.

Tbh if I was hand mixing I think I would ditch icf in general and go with concrete block with EWI.

There was a guy on this forums predecessor who was based on some if the islands in the hebrides. He mixed a icf build by hand I seam to remember he wouldn't do it again. A quick back of fag packet calculation I need approx 25m3 of concrete for my basement walls...... shite with mixing that by hand!! For the little extra cash I will be using waterproof concrete (with all water bars etc), external tanking and good drainage on a 3 sided basement. As you say it's a major to sort out later!

John, are you sure you are not a salesman for this isotex stuff?? For a guy who has never used it before you do fight its corner pretty strong! As for the comment nobody builds 10 story in poly icf, hold my beer .... https://www.buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-040-high-rise-igloos ?? Pouring any concrete wall to be used as a basement why wouldn't you use waterproof concrete as well as external tanking??

Nick. never thought of linking the tv soundbar with the ceiling speakers, this would work brillant with the area. I always dismissed sonas as I want everything hard wired but that new sonas amp looks good and if I can link that with the soundbar... win win.

We have a poor set up just now and they are never off (amp in other room and old speakers on top of kitchen units). I think the key is ease of operation but this will be investigated at a later date.

I wouldn't rule out solar thermal esp with RHI. In scotland you can get a loan from government to cover ST heat pumps etc which can be repaid by the RHI payments.

Looking for a little bit of advice. Looking to put ceiling speakers into 4 or 5 zones. Scratching my head with kitchen (6x8m) zone. Original plan was 2x 6 inch 65 watt in a pretty central location. Now having done little research would be better to locate in opposite corners but other option would be increase to 4x speakers. Any thoughts on this? Next question after recent last minute visit to screwfix for speaker cable I ended up twin 24 strand 0.75mm cable but thinking 1mm twin and earth prob more robust long term or am I over thinking this.

I have had a problem with plaster board, not sure if it's just the local TP merchant who made a mistake when ordering or a bigger shortage.

Sorry it was a cash trade account, no credit. We also use this set up at the build merchants who also accept amex, lots of air miles have been earned. We have found a few suppliers happy to set up these accounts with very little questions.

For a intro post you fairly get the locals on here going, well done? I managed to waggle a trade account with one of the suppliers quick check you could do a decent spec (silencers etc) system for around 1700 plus vat and mvhr is certainly something you can DIY install there is even some tools shared on here to help with commissioning the system.

We used zonts and zogs with nudara icf, it worked very well and as we got use of them free it kept the cost down with no pressure on time. We spoke lightly on here about about a group buy but that fell through, I think it actually gave the guys a wee bit of bargaining power on the rental costs as they have another option for bracing.