markharro

I've bought a Steinel sensor and am baffled by the instructions on wiring that come with it. I dont know if anyone else agrees but what are these meant to show - see photos. Maybe an electrician would understand the wiring diagram but I'm not one and the pictures dont seem to show what you are meant to do clearly. Can anyone - maybe @ProDave explain in simple terms how I wire this from the 3 core mains into it and then onwards to the low voltage driver for the led strip it is to operate? Thanks.

Ah sorry @ProDave I am maybe not explaining properly. Its not a depth issue - that is no problem. It is the location of the box which is in a right angle corner. Yes the switch plate I mean. When you put it over the box its holes are about 2mm to the right of the back box holes!

We have a back box in a tight right angled corner and it looks like I am lacking a couple of mm to be able to screw a cover on it. I could try to trim a cover so it would fit but are there any commercial options for this issue? Maybe a metal flat plate design would be best if I had to grind an edge a little?

@Nickfromwales thats brilliant thanks that's just what I need. One reason I had thought against the double push fit was because there may be insufficient clearance between the brown waste and the plywood behind that you can see in the photo. But of course the solution is to do a cut out from the ply to increase any clearance needed as it will be boarded on the other side anyway. Excellent now just need to read up on fitting the Alba shower pan and fancy electronic flush plate and we will be good to go. M

Also wondered about this? https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/davant-solvent-soil-double-socket-slip-coupler-110mm-black/p/119838?lsft=adtype:pla,productchannel:online,storename:,product_id:119838&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAiaC-BhBEEiwAjY99qFZ3oxmEaPGhq0wcJeE2unuk_SX-7i-0v7-fBvvQJasWbvOBtVKc1BoCrWEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#fo_c=2832&fo_k=02570195219a37bb2adb1b5a7d35497e&fo_s=gplauk

No I have yet to fit the frame - I just pushed it in temporarily for the photo. I am awaiting some special L shaped brackets for the top fixings.

@JohnMo thanks these are all very valid points but I have accounted for them yes!

I am about to have a go at fitting this frame. The kit comes with the black Geberit 90mm 90 degree bend section and a 110 - 90mm reducer. However annoyingly the reducer 110 end is too thick to slide inside the brown 110 waste pipe. So clearly I need to buy a 110 - 110 straight connector. I am looking for advice on the best part to buy. There are a couple of issues..... 1 Not much height - I will cut the brown waste lower in line with the wooden sole plate but even then I need space for the straight connector then the reducer then the final bend section 2 The brown soil pipe is slightly off perpendicular. Not by much but a bit. So ideally I am looking for a straight 110 - 110 then is low in height but has some flex? Would this Mcalpine part be a good solution? https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-push-fit-single-socket-drain-connector-black-110mm/4255V?gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiAiaC-BhBEEiwAjY99qPfuSVvVOwOsuArr-2ZoG7XpOUrOIn_Cq0cUdHHYCpGmS8WOWeDXsxoC3OsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds I think this query has @Nickfromwales written all over it!!

Good to have your approval Nick!

The double boarding is to allow getting the height done the precise amount so that the top of our tiles comes to the exact ceiling height. Its a shower room so sound not really an issue. May go with 300mm as small room so may as well make bombproof.

Thanks for the advice. I am double sheeting so 2 x 12.5 - will 400mm centres by ok for that?

Hi I need to reduce a ceiling height a bit and intend to cross batten the exposed joists but my question is what is the normal width between battens - is 600mm ok?

Hoping @ProDave might be able to answer the above as its next to impossible to get hold of our own electrician at the moment. Will a 12 or 24V LED strip work on the same switch as a mains downlight? I have spoked to one LED strip supplier who advise against it saying (I think) that inrush current from driver might effect the downlight!? Not sure how or why or what they mean in practical terms. Another said ok to mix but only with standard on/off switch - you would not be able to use a dimmer!?

Thanks @Temp and @nod thats actually quite a difference between you both - 5.5 cm if I have it right. Are both of your measurements to the top of the toilet pan or the seat?

1m above floor height is what they advise but we are quite tall as a family. 6'3 and 5'9 as a couple although our 10 yr old is still to catch up! My query is whether its worth adding some height to the instal so that the WC pan is higher than normal above the floor? If so, how many mm?

And suggestions for wall board in shower-rooms?

Thanks for the advice. Turns out that the the lights we have are fire rated. Another connected issue though. Our electrician has wired one of our shower room switches to power a downlight and an LED strip. The LED will I think be 24V so will need a driver and the downlight is mains voltage. I called the manufacturer of the downlight and they recommended not to use it with the low voltage LED strip. So do I need a 24V downlight for these to work properly together? If so any links to a decent IP65 and fire rated 24V downlight?

Can anyone recommend? We will probably only fit 5-6 recessed downlights in the whole house but seem to recall building control had specified need to use these hoods if installing in insulation as will be as the GF/FF ceiling void will have 100mm acoustic insulation. Thanks.

I have installed Hardie backer for our shower enclosure but for the rest of the room I won't need to use this but the question is what is normally used? Moisture resistant plasterboard? We indeed to lime plaster whatever we use if that is relevant and the board will extend to within about 3mm of the (concrete) floor as a shadow gap. Also do you need to use moisture resistant PB for the ceiling in a shower room? thanks.

Hi @nod I have bought these gates - https://www.fhbrundle.co.uk/products/54SGCK154__Cantilever_Gate_Frame_Kit_-_1.5m_High_x_4m_Wide_Opening although have yet to instal. These would save you a bit of £ I would be interested in where you sourced your motor kit and what I need to look out for in this as its my intention to but and then have electrician wire up but my knowledge of what to get is pretty scanty

Our floor to ceiling void is about 300mm. Our warrant grant requires a minimum of 100mm >= 10kg/m2 insulation. I have some Rockwool 100mm RWA45. Will a single layer of this give us a decent enough result? My intuition was saying add more but from what you say @Iceverge that may be counter productive? If just using 100m should I try to place this in the centre of the void leaving 100mm free air above and below the insulation?

Thanks @ProDaveDave. Can you tell me how I test for dead? I have a multimeter but can't say I am too clued up on how you operate one!

I have a similar question. Our floor to ceiling void is about 300mm. Our warrant grant requires a minimum of 100mm >= 10kg/m2 insulation. I have some Rockwool 100mm RWA45. Will a single layer of this give us a decent enough result? Somehow my intuition is saying add more!?

My issue is that I need to change the route of a wire into the red switch in the photos In the second photo I am pointing at the left to a cable out of the inverter that goes through the wall into the service void and then enters the back of the red switch from behind. The issue is that I need to re-route this cable out of the wall so that it enters the red switch from below as I show on the right. It should be a simple 5 minute job for me but I need to know how to isolate the PV so I don’t kill myself. On the photo to the left there is another black isolation switch. Do I just switch that off and also switch the red switch to off and is that all there is to it? Thanks PS I have asked the company who installed for us but they say they would need to send someone out to do this and they are not local

Hi @Trw144 can I ask how you laid the engineered flooring after you had the walls completed as I am trying to puzzle out the same thing now. . I understand the mechanics of fixing the wall board down to the correct height so that the floor then slides under and leaves the desired height of shadow gap. My query is how do you set the short board joins? The long lengths are fine as they are fully exposed other than the 10mm or so tucked under the shadow gap. But we will be using mixed lengths of 1.8 - 3m for a floor about 4m x 4m and so the boards need to be joined to get across the full 4m length? I think the standard way to do this is to use a pull bar and hammer but that means somehow getting the end of the bar under the far edge of the board which is under your plasterboard if you see what I mean? While this might be possible at one end what about the other length that you are butting on to? How does that stay in one place as you hammer the other piece? Would it not hammer in tight under your plasterboard on the other wall and mean you have no expansion gap at that side? Maybe use 2 pull bar left and right and two people hammering at the same time?