markharro

Very helpful replies thanks and think I know what I'm doing now. One more question however. An engineer pal has said to watch out for galling between stainless steel threads and nuts. For this static application can I use standard grease for this or something more specialist?

Thanks. I actually have a bit of 16mm threaded rod and it fits but maybe I want more wriggle room that I would get with 12mm to make sure I get both rollers in line? There is no guidance of the length of rod to bury in the concrete however? Also can anyone recommend a particular brand of resin? Do I need one of the tools shown to blown out the drill dust or will a vacuum do that?

Hi @Onoff @Conor too late now for the J bolts....the pad was placed ages ago. In any event here is the manual for the gate - it shows preparation for the fixings happening after the pad has gone in. No info on the diameter of bolt etc needed.

I need to bolt down a post and also 2 rollers being running gear for a cantilevered gate. what are the best bolts/fixings to use? thanks

I think it was a really important programme actually. Guy Martin is the modern day Fred Dibnah and people will sit up and take notice. Yes of course a 6 figure renovation is niche but the pre-fab terraces are the real takeaway message. We can and we should be building quality stuff like this and not the absolute C%$p that is the standard new build or indeed old build.

We have a beam in a wall between two rooms. I want to fill in the space with some form of insulation to contribute towards overall acoustic insulation between the the rooms. What would be best for this. I have some leftover PIR that would fit but I suspect I am better using some acoustic wool batt?

I get this too with the same set up so would be interested to hear of any fix

I have put this together to the stage shown - mirror stuck to MDF with LED strips down each long side of the MDF and wired into the driver - my question is whether there is any need for any sort of earthing of the mirror and if so how that is achieved? thanks

Hi thanks yes I think getting up to 1200mm is easy enough its when you go over. Having said that its sort of baffling that it seems impossible to source wider door blanks - surely there must be a source out there!?

High-jacking this thread slightly - we have a plan for an extra wide sliding pocket door - up to 1500mm! I have the sliding gear sorted I think (Hewa junior) but I am really struggling to find a door blank this wide ideally acoustic rated. Can anyone help?

I have bought and fixed a couple of electric roller "Smartblinds". Probably around £300-400 from memory for the largest (about 1000x2000mm). I like them as they are Matter enabled and you can automate using Apple kit.

I have flagged up that I may need to reject it. Will speak to them tomorrow. My point is that I was asked to make a plywood template to get it spot on which I did. I then drew on the precise measurements onto the ply so there could be no error - or so I thought. There was no mention of tolerances when I ordered. I assumed cutting glass would be done by a calibrated machine and would be a simple task of plugging in the measurements and then pressing go. Anyway, I will see how I get on tomorrow.

Yes they definitely got it wrong...what I dont understand is how because surely the cutting will be done by a machine and they programme the dimensions in and its accurate? 5mm out of 800mm is not an acceptable tolerance I am afraid. One issue is that the supplier is miles away so I think I will need to find a new (local) company....I dont fancy trying a DIY grind - would a local company be persuaded to attempt this do you think?

Well, with any self build you soon become used to the F^%k up after F&^k up that happens and its almost becomes notable when something goes without incident. So we ordered a panel of 8mm toughened glass about 5 weeks ago for a shower door. I spent about 2 hours measuing and cutting a template for it from ply. The top and bottom needed to be slightly different widths to fit the tiled enclosure. Despite the template and the clear measurements written on it for the 2 widths the company was got the top out by 2mm and the bottom out by 5mm. Maybe doesn't sound a lot but it means the panel will not fit into the space we have! Honestly, why do I bother! Anyway, I suspect I know the answer to this already but I take it that its not possible to cut or grind off the small sliver we need removed from toughened glass and that we will need to order a brand new piece?

Actually the Hafele stuff rings a bell ... I remember looking at their acoustic options ages ago. Another used this?

Hi @Bramco I cant find any ref to Hormann pocket doors online - do you have a weblink you could share?

We intend to fit 2 sliding doors for space reasons. Can you recommend any brand as "premium kit" @Mike We intended to use rocketdoorframes.com/en/ as we bought their flush door kits and were impressed with the quality.

That's the thing, the hinges came without screws. I'd assumed SS would be the way to go. But yes you are right they are easier to snap....having said that it will be my favoured Spax brand and they are the dogs...

Ok thanks @Nickfromwales is it simply the case that the torque from eg an impact driver will easily dislodge the screw if needed even if embedded in the CT1? I have another question......I figure I could use 6mm diameter SS screws for these hinges and ordered some which have arrived today and also ordered a drill bit to match at 6mm. Now I have the screws they do fit the holes in the hinge but the top of the screw sits slightly proud so the chrome cover plate will not slide over. So I need to go now and order some 5mm screws but my question is can I still use a 6mm drill bit or should I get another drill bit so I can drill a 5mm hole through the 20mm thick tile? My thinking is that maybe a 1mm excess in the hole isnt an issue? thanks

Ok thanks I'm sure you'll know its just that it makes me a bit nervous and was wondering if silicone might not be the better option for this?

Thanks all...we are about to get our glass delivered so this is going to become reality soon. Once thing I meant to check with you @Nickfromwales your advice to CT1 the screwholes. I can see why for waterproofing but will this not make it next to impossible to ever remove the screws?

Hi Im sorry we bought from an EU website and Geberit had to check it would be ok. Id recommend calling their tech support = they are excellent

I was in the same position as you. We had restricted space so had to use this product. Its in the wall now and wiring in for electronic flush and shower toilet - both still to be fitted. I spent hours checking instructions and with the excellent Geberit tech guys who steered my through everything. This should work as you intend although G had to send me a small but of flexi hose to make everything work as the electronic flush made things more complex

Ah sorry I thought these would be standard. They are Uniwin triple glazed. Not sure on the manufacturer

Hi I need to remove a small window to paint around the frame - youtube tells me this should be easy - open the window then put the handle to "tilt" then the top retaining clip is meant to pop off. On the photo I have turned the little clip highlighted in red 90 degrees so that it can come out but then when I try to lift the clip up it wont come out even with quite a bit of force. It appears to be catching on the point marked blue which it the position of one of the locking bolts I think when in tilt mode. Is there something obvious I am missing? further to the left there is a small adjuster with a - and + ......does this need to be turned somehow? thanks