markharro

MBC power floated our slab as we told them we were going to use it as the finished floor. Its largely good but some rough areas but it fits in with our aesthetic in the house so its ok.... On a separate point there are some minor cracks here and there - how best to repair these?

Actually one thing I have been wondering about. Before the tiles were put on the tiler recommended that we apply tile sealant solution as his view was that it was easier to do this before the tiles were on the wall. So that means that the sealer was on the tiles before the grouting was done and before the silicone was applied. Could that mean that the silicone would achieve a reduced "grip" on the tile edge against an unsealed tile?

Thanks @Nickfromwales that it is really good advice as always. I don't think that we are going to have enough space to put in any CT1 but other than that we can follow your instructions. What is puzzling us is how this could have happened literally only a number of weeks after we finished the work. It is difficult to see the scale from the photo but the width of the shower is 900 mm to give some idea. You can see that my partner has applied really quite a narrow bead . Would you reckon that we are better with a much thicker bead at the bottom where the tiles meet the shower tray? Also, any tips on making sure that you get the optimum adhesion of the silicon to the tile and enamelled steel tray?

Jeez some days you really do lose the will to live. After literally months getting this shower operational my partner noticed that about one inch of grout where one vertical grout line hits the shower tray was appearing permanently wet. We suspected that the silicone around the try was the culprit. She has now scrapped off the silicone to find the back of it is wet over quite a length!! would even a small breach in the silicone allow this to happen? She did the siliconing herself and I thought at the time that she had used a very narrow bead around the shower tray. Should we take it all out right around the tray and apply a thicker bead? @Nickfromwales what do you recommend to get the silicone out and to clean up before reapplying thanks

Thanks @Nick Laslett I had seen the last 2 of those videos but not the first one so that was helpful. One question with the FST.....I think you apply it over the whole surface of the boards dont you and not just the areas you have applied the joint filler? And any tips for sanding it....I am trying to visualise how you avoid sanding right through to the board below!?

You are quite right @Nickfromwales we do have some non perfect background battening and, despite my efforts at shimming, it has resulted in some irregularities here and there. The background framing was done by the company that built our kit. Its only when months later I out a straight edge to the studs did I realise that a lot of shimming would be needed. Some of the studs are shocking with twists as well. As a punter before its been a steep learning curve not to make too many mistakes and avoid any really bad ones. We have boarded 2 rooms ourselves now and it not perfect, but not a complete disaster. I at least understand the issues now so as we continue boarding I intend to major on the shimming.

Thanks @Nick Laslett that sounds encouraging although I have the Deros; the Leros would be great but £££. Yes I think using too much joint filler may be part of the problem. There are joints however where one board is maybe a fraction of a mm proud and I have attempted to feather with the joint filler. I am wondering now whether its better simply to grind the edge that slightly proud down with the sander to match the neighbouring edge? And less I think I will try to passes with the filler. Filling holes I haven't yet found the knack. If you try with one fill and scrape away the excess it tends to leave a slight dimple in the middle which then needs a second fill. However if you fill it copiously you then end up having a lot to sand back. With the FST can I ask which grit of the Abranet you used to sand it? I am using 80 grit to sand the filler but I suspect you need to use something much much finer with the FST or you will basically just take it all off as the FST is very thin isnt it? Your job looks great

You're really trying to spoil my agony .....sorry fun..... aren't you!

and for marble terrazzo which is what we have?

I suspect you may be right......the thing is I have got half a dozen bags of jointing mix and the same number of tubs of FST so am going to persevere for a bit longer at least......

Doing 2 bedrooms atm and thats bad enough but yes the idea is to use Fermacell throughout the house. You are right its negative fun and I need to review after we get these two rooms done....I need to get the dust extraction sorted though first! We are following the Fermacell system so after sanding the joint filler compound down the intention is to use their "fine surface treatment".

I suspect tomorrow I'll be on the phone to V-Tuf and Mirka tech support to try to work out what's going on - ATM just getting enveloped in clouds of dust and contemplating throwing the tools out of the window!

Thanks both - when you say a diamond hole saw do you mean something like this with a flat head - https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-hex-shank-diamond-tile-drill-bit-6mm-x-67mm/51908 If so would I not need something like this to stop it skating all over the tile - https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-diamond-tile-drill-guide/84524 ? I was thinking of this sort of thing - https://www.screwfix.com/p/bosch-expert-hex-9-hard-ceramic-tile-drill-bit-set-5-pieces/974rr And @Nickfromwales thats useful waterproofing tips but I think you are imagining we are using some sort of frame or metal profile- we are not. The idea is a single pane of glass pivoting on the 2 hinges and totally frameless. The room is a semi-wet room. So I guess the CT1 in the screwholes may be all we need?

I have a couple of questions on a similar topic. Currently engaged in sanding filler in Fermacell boards and its already a job from hell......but even worse there is basically zero suction from my Mirka sander....this is connected - via a 4 metre (crazy expensive) Mirka hose to the 3m or so hose on my V-Tuf mini vacuum. I thought I might need a new bag but changed it and still no good. The filter is clean. So what is the issue? I bought the V-Tuf as it was the cheapest M class vacuum available but is it maybe underpowered for this job? Is the overall hose length too long? Is so would the solution be ditching the Mirka hose and trying to find some sort of adaptor to connect the Mirka straight to the vacuum hose? Thanks

Sorry I meant a 20mm thick tile, not the diameter of the whole which will probably be 6-8mm or the likes.

We will shortly be needing to drill holes for some screws through our tiled shower enclosure. Mainly to instal two of these hinges - https://www.wholesaleglasscompany.co.uk/shop/colcom-8501n-glass-to-wall-shower-door-hinge.html - for a glass door. Behind the tiles is 12mm cement board and behind that an 18mm ply pattress. Couple of questions - 1 What is the best type of drill bit for the terrazzo and any tips to ensure that a clean hole is drilled? 2 I have 32mm of depth before the screws will hit the ply. The idea is to use long enough screws to penetrate the full extent of the 18mm ply. I was planning to use a drill bit of the same diameter as the screw I use. If it wasn't for the ply I would have to use rawlplugs but given I have ply I dont think I need these?

Send me a private message if you would like me to sound out the contractor we used.

Would another competent contractor in the industry be suitable? Our contractors on our project in Edinburgh were excellent and very authoritative. Not sure if the principal would get involved in this sort of thing but I know him well and could ask.

Thanks @Nickfromwales thats what I thought. 2 more questions though - if there are gaps between boards which I guess will be inevitable what is best to use as filler? Also should I plan for small expansion gaps between the sheets of ply?

We need to apply 18mm ply over our 22mm chipboard floor to bring up the level to match our rooms before a 3mm underlay and ultimately lino. My question is should the ply boards be butted hard against each other or with gaps to any extent? thanks

Hi I cant remember the detail but I think my argument was simply that open vertical cladding wouldnt mean that there was a cavity.

I have to say I lost the will to live on this ultimately! We ended up with doors supplied by Rocket doors - https://www.rocketdoorframes.co.uk/pages/hinged-door-shop - frame and door blank package. We wanted this flush with wall look and this was the easiest way to achieve it. Door blanks seem good quality although probably stuffed with the usual gunk.

@SteamyTea and @nod you are both right I think but in this shower room the bars were used mainly to get the ceiling height level with the tiles and any acoustic benefits will be a bonus

Yes I did. I used this stuff https://soundstop.co.uk/products/genieclip-furring-strip?variant=43491336880351 and these clips https://soundstop.co.uk/products/genieclip-rst-soundproof-system?variant=43491336782047 I found this company really good to deal with and very helpful over the phone. Fixing the bars was pretty easy - shimming the joists took the most time. I bought 2 different types of LED profile - one like in @Thorfun photo above (yet to fit this) and another being this one - https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/plaster-in-wall-washer-led-aluminium-profile-85-5mm-x-56-8mm which butts up against the wall. I have fitted the latter only and what I did was to measure the gap for it very carefully and then fit the first metal bar so that the screws through the profile would go into the metal channel. As ever the time was in the working it out and measurement. Once I had got my head around how to do it things went very smoothly. Here is a photo of the ceiling now painted. I won't be fitting the others for a while. Haven't really thought about how to do these. One way I guess is to fit 2 parallel resilient bars with a gap just wide enough for the profile?

I read on one of the paint company's websites 4 weeks but our plasterer said as soon as its dry?