markharro

Ah of course I see the point now - I guess I will need to check I can make the hole large enough to pull the driver through but still be able to screw the detector base onto the PB!

I am about to plasterboard the ceiling and need to work out how I can make the driver accessible from below in case it fails. From memory I think our electrician had allowed for it to be placed close to where the wiring for our smoke detector will come through the ceiling.......but now I dont understand this logic because the hole for the wiring will not be large enough in diameter to pull through a driver down the line......so I am puzzled about what he was getting on about. I think in another room he mentioned putting the driver near a downlight - that I can see more sense with as the downlight can be taken out and the hole diameter will be wide enough to pull the driver through. I guess with this option you would just need to take care to leave enough slack in the cabling and some way to make sure that the cable passed right above the hole for the downlight. Are there any better options? ie can you get circular plugs the diameter of a downlight that you can fit as a simple access panel?

Plasterboard....what's that. Real self-builders use Fermacell! But yes I've found that the multitool is the solution for the plastic boxes....needs a steady hand and concentration! Have fitted a fair few metal boxes too!

Ok great thanks - right I have decided to go for the 4 x doubles so this should be the final wiring. This look ok?

thanks @Nickfromwales and others. So can I check is my amended photo showing the wiring for 3x sockets showing the wiring run correctly? I sort of need to know as intend to board over today. I may put a 4th one in but good to know if ok for 3 atm?

Brilliant thanks thats good news. So does this look ok for 2x on left and 1x on right? and if I did want 2 x doubles on right as well just do the same with the wiring?

Looks like our electrician has only allowed for 2x double sockets here whereas red marks on the wall were showing 2 x doubles on left and 1x on right. I suspect this is an easy fix and think I know how to do it but be grateful for some guidance. Thanks.

Thanks very much @Nickfromwales v helpful

Thanks everyone. @Nickfromwales when you say primer - what product do you mean specifically?

I am about to tile onto Fermacell - quite large format limestone. Its not in a wet area - basically an alcove in the hall. Anything specific about tiling on Fermacell to know about that is different to using hardie cement board ? thanks

Will need to bookmark this page- I have fitted a Geberit frame downstairs and thankfully managed not to balls it up! I have a Grohe frame to put in upstairs - bought it second hand so will need to hunt down the instructions online. There were really really useful videos for the Geberit frames which in no small measure allowed me as a numpty to fit it......I was hoping there would be similar for the Grohe. This has reminded me I will also need to source some extra parts eg the waste and water supply pipes will have been cut down to suit the previous install...can anyone recommend good source of spares?

Any input on my post above?

On the topic of levelling on timber, we have 22mm chipboard on the first floor and there is an issue where our landing butts onto our metal staircase top. Basically the board on one side is depressed by maybe around 6-7mm. Ultimately we are laying lino and the plan is to first fit plywood over the chipboard then an underlay and then the lino. The issue is how to level up at this junction. Its maybe no more than 1 square metre where the issue is. I understand the use of levelling compounds I think but can anyone guide me on these points - 1 Should I apply the levelling compound onto the chipboard before I put the ply down or should I screw down the ply first and level that and then add the underlay and then lino? I am thinking the former may be better? 2 This will be a high footfall area so I am a bit concerned the levelling mix may break down over time? Should I be? 3 Can anyone recommend a specific product to use? thanks

I'm (finishing) a house build too and I have now got a pretty decent collection of Makita 18V tools. Started with drill/driver then hopped to impact driver and of course lots of other things too. For heavy drilling into concrete I use a corded Screwfix Titan SDS drill which cost less than £100 I think and is night and day compared to the battery tools.

Hi @Iceverge what make of MVHR unit have you got? Interested how you learned how to self - maintain? Any good videos you can point to showing the procedures?

Whats the metal tape you have used here wrapped around the insulation and is it worth using?

Can I correct what someone has said about there being no 2 way chargers available atm. There is one - https://www.sigenergy.com/en/products/dc-charger I have been talking with an installer for the last few weeks about this product. The intriguing thing for me is that it appears to work (potentially) with cars that are not supposed to do 2 way charging like our own.

Very helpful replies thanks and think I know what I'm doing now. One more question however. An engineer pal has said to watch out for galling between stainless steel threads and nuts. For this static application can I use standard grease for this or something more specialist?

Thanks. I actually have a bit of 16mm threaded rod and it fits but maybe I want more wriggle room that I would get with 12mm to make sure I get both rollers in line? There is no guidance of the length of rod to bury in the concrete however? Also can anyone recommend a particular brand of resin? Do I need one of the tools shown to blown out the drill dust or will a vacuum do that?

Hi @Onoff @Conor too late now for the J bolts....the pad was placed ages ago. In any event here is the manual for the gate - it shows preparation for the fixings happening after the pad has gone in. No info on the diameter of bolt etc needed.

I need to bolt down a post and also 2 rollers being running gear for a cantilevered gate. what are the best bolts/fixings to use? thanks

I think it was a really important programme actually. Guy Martin is the modern day Fred Dibnah and people will sit up and take notice. Yes of course a 6 figure renovation is niche but the pre-fab terraces are the real takeaway message. We can and we should be building quality stuff like this and not the absolute C%$p that is the standard new build or indeed old build.

We have a beam in a wall between two rooms. I want to fill in the space with some form of insulation to contribute towards overall acoustic insulation between the the rooms. What would be best for this. I have some leftover PIR that would fit but I suspect I am better using some acoustic wool batt?

I get this too with the same set up so would be interested to hear of any fix

I have put this together to the stage shown - mirror stuck to MDF with LED strips down each long side of the MDF and wired into the driver - my question is whether there is any need for any sort of earthing of the mirror and if so how that is achieved? thanks