dangti6

These people need to be handled firmly. May upset them as often these people don't like it when they aren't in control , but you need to make it clear to them so they don't believe they can wear you down to giving in by continuing to raise it. They may well stop engaging with you if it does sink in that they simply will not get their way, but that's their call. If you're now ready to sort the fence I would probably knock and say you are going to extend the fence from the corner of the extension and 'remember we previously discussed the trellis against the wall - is that still something you would like - nb I am not going to render that wall and that is final, but I am prepared to add a trellis'. And keep the leylandii tit for tat in your back pocket.

Forgive me for going off topic as I appreciate your current concern is the noise, but can I ask how you have found the efficiency with it heating you hot water throughout the year, and also (appreciate it's early in the season) as the temperature starts to drop are you now noticing any improvement in the heat output that you were disappointed with last winter? I have been reading up on ASHP and the main take away is how it operates at a lower temperature and constant top ups to maintain a temperate is the way it operates opposed to what I am used to from a gas boiler - instant heat. Running it 24/7 is common from the feedback I have been reading up on. Especially even more so I imagine in an inefficient property that possibly loses the heat quicker than it can compensate for it. Have you ran the heating in the height of summer with the thermostat above the ambient temperature to see if the noise is present when it's not under so much pressure to make up a number of degrees increase? Clutching at straws possibly. If the replacement system is whisper quiet but will not heat up your house due to how you wish to run it and/or the the lack of insulation etc to maintain a comfortable temperature, what are you going to do? Appreciate the not fit fir purpose statements, but could be a case of getting what you asked for not what you wanted. I'd suggest being clear and concise in your written comms with them. Bullet point it and paraphrase the problems and your expectations.

I have bought a small tub of 2 part body filler which states is suitable for concrete, so I will try it out and see how hard it is. You can drill it, and I'm sure with the coating on top it will be fine for a domestic setting. I am looking at doing a primer coat and two top coats of epoxy so I have time for a plan B if the primer doesn't play ball with the holes I guess. These holes below are an example I found online where moisture has caused issues in a coating, but the same bubbling appearance was my fear due to air but we'll see what happens. Thanks for the heads up with Promain, they have been very helpful in suggesting a product. One thing I need to go back to them about is non slip additives as that wasn't mentioned in my quote. Did you add any? I am in two minds about it and unsure realistically how slippery it would be with wet feet.

For myself. I have done 2 coats of 'fresh plaster paint' which is fine but no doubt I will be making a dusty mess out there over the years and I figured as I already had this stuff, a 3rd coat of that would give me a more washable layer whereas the emulsion would probably get dirty quite quick and smudge/rub in when wiped.

Hi. There's a mix really but nothing massive. I have only ground a small area at the moment where I have uncovered some small holes and a couple of larger ones. No idea what I'll find when I do the whole area (40sqm). Photos speak a thousand words as they say. Here's the slab where I have ground it and the area behind that's yet to have the laitance etc removed. These are the small pin holes. These are the two largest holes. Vernier shows the depth for reference. In an old 30+ year old concrete slab which I have butted up to, there are some deeper or wider dents from cat paws etc which need filling. Where the two slabs meet there is a join, naturally. No doubt the paint will crack also so I am contemplating running a grinder down this line between old and new and filling that whilst I am at it. Resincoat, who I am buying the epoxy from sell an epoxy mortar, but it does look quite thick for the smaller areas and sandy as you say and is probably more suited for pot holes. Ideally I want to use a polyfilla paste type material which I can press in with a putty knife. Do you have any recommendations on a brand to go for? This sounds ideal but out of bloody stock: Clicky Someone mentioned car body filler. That's on my reserve list.

Thanks - that could have got messy!

Usually I'd probably not give this a second thought, but having recently used expired silicone which failed to cure, I am wary. I have a large 10l tub of white Sandtex masonry paint which I bought 7 or 8 years ago. It's unopened and hasn't been stored in freezing conditions. If it's deteriorated, what negative effects could I expect? It's to throw on some internal blockwork to brighten up a garage opposed to being used externally where I wouldn't take any risks. When I open it, if it looks like paint and smells like paint I will probably hope for the best at £35/40 a tub.

Thanks @nod is that 4 parts SBR to 1 part water?

When's the garage going up?

I am prepping my garage floor with a diamond grinder for a epoxy resin finish and having ground some areas I have found some bug holes / pin holes in the concrete caused by air bubbles or whatnot. I don’t want leave them and epoxy over the top as it will likely cause air bubbles in the finish. I understand when going for a polished concrete floor, a grout is added which fills such holes. I’m struggling to find such a product to buy. Epoxy mortars are probably to thick for small (single figure mm) holes so I’m wondering whether a cement and water slurry spread over may fill these in before a final pass with the diamond grinder or if anyone has any recommendations for a slurry/grout product. Thanks

Wheelbarrow wheels squeak so the boss knows how fast the labourers are working ?

Yeah, tuck and tape where possible

Think mine were made in Cornwall - and I have my doubts about their grading as one piece of timber I recently came across within a truss in my loft has a knot or similar the size of a fist which runs across the full width and the timber is probably half as thick as the rest. I’ll have to take a photo. Try to pretend I didn’t notice it ?

1 and a 1/3 buckets per 20kg bag is what you have used going on the above. Add water with each bag next time rather than sloshing the lot in. If there's somewhere near that sells blue circle postcrete, I'd go for that for your second post. And to save the stress buy say 6 bags for the next hole and take back a bag or 2 if required. Better to have too much than not enough as you found today.

Concrete doesn't set, it cures - even under water.

Go back and have a nosey. Bet most of that water has been absorbed by the powder now. Yes, I mean poke something in the water and see how deep it is until you hit the sea bed, as it were. I highly suspect you'll soon hit the material which will be the depth it will dry out at.

I suspect your residual displaced water is on the top and will soon evaporate and soak in to the ground. You'll probably feel the top of the 'crete if you push a stick in to the water. Only start to worry if your stick sinks down in to 31" of zoot soup.

If you're concerned of it slipping, perhaps add a brace horizontally near the bottom and peg that in to the ground either side so it can't slip. If you add the water, and pour the 'crete in from the bag carefully you shouldn't disturb it due to the density of what you're adding. How you have it so far is how I would continue. What is that, a 6 foot post? 31" would be plenty for me.

When you pour the postcrete in to the hole, you can use a stick/bamboo cane or similar to agitate the mix if you so wish. I say agitate - you'll realise as soon as you do it that the stick will allow water to penetrate any dry areas but that's about it. Probably teaching you to suck eggs, but get the post in the right place and brace it before you pour. With the correct hole and right amount of postcrete added, there's not much wiggle room from the off.

In the end I ordered an off the shelf 838mm wide door. Unavailable until mid September at the earliest, no doubt due to timber availability or whatnot. New frame to suit. I am now sourcing some intumescent seals. As my garage is integral and largely uninsulated I am thinking about going for some 'fire and smoke' seals in the hope that the brushes may assist with some draught proofing. Oh, and a concealed door closer within the frame but can't put my finger on one that holds open. Any suggestions on alternatives that don't look horrendously industrial? Next - to look at handles and locking/security arrangements ?

Interesting tip on the car body filler! I am looking to epoxy mine soon and have some small holes that need filling and was begrudgingly going to buy a massive tin of particular ‘concrete filler’ the epoxy paint company offer. Do you remember which epoxy brand you used or if it was water based or high build/solids. Latter is twice the price - which is fair enough and in an industrial environment probably night and day but wondering if I need to buy the best for what is just a garage where I could get away with water based stuff at half the price.

Correct. 5% sweetcorn and 95% modelling clay mix.

Absolutely. You'll soon find something else to lose sleep over and the anger will change to acceptance and eventually you'll not even think of it when you look at it. Having said that, see what they say about the bow and what offer they may put forward. I'd be warming myself up for the fact they may fob you off with tolerances etc and not wanting to cough up and replace at their expense. But that's just me being a pessimist. The more money I spend on things that should be perfect, there's always something that takes the shine off it.

With the walls being pure brilliant white, it's only going to highlight the warmer creamier colour of the worktops if they are not the same shade when right up against them. What kelvin colour are your lights? Won't help in the day but upping the number slightly may make you feel a bit better of an evening when likely to be using the room in anger (literally).

Pop a photo up. The veining you mention isn't something I've seen with quartz worktops, where they are made up of quartz 'chippings' and other materials and resin to form a slab. If you still have the sample, put that on top of the worktop and let's see how different it is - will also probably help your case to send that off to show how the sample is not a representation of what you ended up with. Don't envy you. When we were looking for quartz worktops the level of quality differences were outstanding. I have a sample somewhere still of what actually looks like 80% dust and resin with specks of quartz. In the end I found a reasonably local place which let me have a look around the machine shop and see the slabs so I could see an larger area than just 10cm square.