dangti6

I have areas of my loft boarded using loft legs above a couple of layers of insulation. But not the flimsy clip over ones that are common in the likes of B&Q, the sturdier type like this: Raise Loft Floor Above Insulation | London, UK | Loft Leg I'd recommend them. Just be mindful what you are storing as weight soon adds up.

BC work on the basis of the species mature height don't they? Annoyingly enough I had a single unruly Laurel near one corner of my extension. Because it was about 5m in height and very obtrusive it was spotted and I had to go down 1.7m deep that end. At the other corner was a fence with a run of several laurels just poking over the top that are kept pruned to just above the fence line. They didn't take much notice of those and I didn't point them out despite being positioned at the same distance.

Where in the SW are you Moonshine?

Looking good. Any surprises due to the madness recently with material price increases or did you lock in the price?

I imagine canopy doors are mostly a standard size whereas sectionals and rollers are easily made to your specific dimensions to order. I recently bought a sectional and was given the exact opening required for an off the shelf 16’ wide door but then learnt that it would be no extra to have it made to the mm of my opening. Garador are a popular choice for up and overs, I’d get in touch with them and other brands you may have in mind and ask for the overall frame width. Alternatively you could always fit it inside the reveal to the timber but you would obviously lose some internal length which may be a consideration.

What type of door are you going for and how high is the opening?

Thanks, very much water under the bridge as you say. Not intending on powering anything heavy out there. Intention is a total of 5 double sockets - purely so there’s a good spread of power points around the room where you need it. Somewhere to plug the trickle charger in depending where the car is parked, the vacuum cleaner and charging my power tool batteries. May see how the 16a goes first before changing for 20a. I do actually have a double socket out there on the integral wall spurred from the 32a ring which I can use for anything with a higher draw.

Hi Mark. The 16a feed from the consumer unit to the garage is a single 2.5mm cable going to 1 double outlet. I was under the impression there was no restriction on adding extra sockets to a radial, but happy to be corrected I have misinterpreted against what can be done and what can be done without notification.

Back in 2014, not long after moving in to our current property we had an electric shower installed which required the consumer unit to be upgraded. I didn’t receive any certification and it completely slipped my mind. Fast forward until recently when I had my garage extended and I remembered the lack of certificate. Contacted the electrician who did the work in 2014 and he couldn’t find record of the installation and stated as it was over 5 years it wouldn’t be valid anyway. He came a couple of months ago to do a test. Whilst he was here I asked about some changes to the electrics in the new garage so he decided to not finish/produce the test and do so when the works in the garage were done. After chasing for the quote 3 times I have given up and have no certificate. I suspect when we come to sell (not for a long while) certification of some sort will be requested. Would an EICR produced in the near future post garage electrical changes, or nearer eventual resale retrospectively by another electrician confirm the consumer unit change was done competently assuming it passes the tests? The changes I wish to make to the garage are: Increase the number of sockets on the 16a radial. Change the single batten light for six LED panels on a 3 gang switch. Change the single outside light spur to two outside lights. As these changes are to existing and not new, outside of the kitchen and bathroom, I believe I can do these myself as non-notifiable minor works. Would subsequently appointing an electrician to do an EICR confirm my connections are correct and draw a line in the sand for our records that the consumer unit and works were safe as of 2021, at least.

Some flags would look nice in there.

Taper edge is primarily used for taping and jointing - essentially filling the tapers with compound and sanding opposed to skimming the whole wall. Straight edged is just that, straight at all 4 edges. This can still be taped and jointed with compound though.

That’s exactly why you should report it. Whilst I was waiting for planning permission last year and had feedback to suggest it was imposing and should be reduced in size, I made a mental note during my evening lockdown walks of every terrible extension that had either been granted or as I found on a couple of occasions, refused but built anyway. I was fully prepared to use the examples. There’s a brook running behind me. The opposite side of that there are 2 properties which have potentially eaten in to the ‘green space’ and moved their boundaries. Doesn’t affect me, but they have had the brass neck to dump what must be a dozen tonnes of soil from levelling the area behind the fence. When I get 5 I will probably raise it as much as it does make me feel like a grump.

The document Gus posted raised an eyebrow as I have just brought in a couple of high reach pedestrian stock pickers and had a load of racking installed in a warehouse. Floor looks spot on but wonder how flat it actually is.

Stuck my head out to see how it’s looking 24h later. Certainly right about flat vs level. Garage door seal will need some adjustment as it’s slightly higher in the centre. Sunlight makes it look worse than it is, but still frustrating. The surface water has dried and left a powdery top layer due to the ‘cream’ I’d assume. Some air bubbles also. I have brushed some of it off - not sure whether I should wait until it’s cured further to do that or not. There is one poor area here: Again not sure whether to do anything with that now or not in terms of damage limitation - is what it is now unfortunately.

Thanks Gus - another British Standard to keep in my back pocket for when the pubs fully reopen ?

It’s only a garage floor. I’m going to probably epoxy resin over it at some point. Appears there was an error in the labour element of the quote and invoice being amended accordingly. They did offer to send someone back if I wanted it smoother than was left with the float. The new concrete joins existing so if the new was super smooth it would still sit next to mediocre existing so the suggestion is to have the lot ground in 8 weeks time which may be a good shout if I decide I want it more uniform.

I’ve had a concrete slab laid. The quote stated: The slab will be left with a smooth steel trowel finish. They went over it with a vibrating bull float, troweled the sides against the walls and then went over with a smaller manual bull float. They have finished up for the day. Water is currently sitting on top and a search suggests that this is supposed to be allowed to evaporate before going over with a trowel. Before I raise, can using a bull float be classed as a steel trowel finish or have I been quoted for a level above what I’ve been left with?

Thanks gents, I will mix with sharp. The sand has only be exposed to one downpour in about 2 months so it’s quite dry in there

Excuse the thread revival. Worry wart has had a Google and found this thread. I have some building sand left over which I was hoping I could use as blinding to use it up and save buying in sharp sand specifically. Have others found out the hard way that building sand is no good, or is it a case of not ideal, but useable if it’s what you have at hand? The building sand I have won’t do the whole area, so I’m happy to buy sharp to do the remnants unless it’s best to stick with the one type throughout.

Soda blasting would probably sort that. Although as an outsider from the images on the previous page - I quite like the look of the paint. Appreciate opinion would probably differ if I was living there.

Time for a nice cold cider. Got a bit more to remove in both the trench and put to get down to final depth - perhaps I should have got a digger in!

Good shout. Found out they are actually called Aquacrate - which are manufactured by Pennine. Gave them a call and they clarified that the cones are for strength and the sides can be drilled for an inlet as and where required.

I am creating a 0.8 cubic metre soakaway using two aquavoid 100mmx1000mmx400mm crates. I can avoid digging an extra 200mm down if I orientate them like this: There are no access points at the sides so I’d have to bore through, but is the above any different from an efficiency point of view? I think my back would prefer to dig wider opposed to deeper The crates have fluted sections throughout which would be vertical in that application for what’s its worth.

I have since removed the existing wall. I am using A142 6mm steel mesh within the new slab. Would you drill and resin fix some rebar sticks in to the side of the existing slab to tie it in or leave it independent? It’s only about 90mm thick at the thickest point. I have noticed that along the edge there are further areas where there are voids - at the far end the hardcore beneath appears to have sunk down about 50/75mm. It’s dropped here about a foot inward. Clay soil settlement perhaps. The mortar frogs will be knocked off. I’m tempted to lay the DPM flat under/against the existing slab rather than running up the side of it to avoid creases and get a flusher joint. Or will the weight of the concrete when tamped force and creases together enough to not be a concern?

Don’t want to dig anymore than I have to! ? Perhaps adjustable bends are the way forward!