IanR

Might be worth asking the frame company the cost of producing a cutting list. If all the timbers are shown on the roof plans, and assuming they are CAD drawings, then they likely have a quick process to produce the cutting list. They'll also be working from 1:1 data which will be far more accurate than your builder having to scale off a drawing.

I was shocked how quickly Touchwood got through cutting everything to size. I would have thought there was a cutting list somewhere, They've had to work out how much timber you need so must know each piece that is required.

Those nice chaps from Touchwood built my frame, so this was all part of a package. They had a cutting list from their frame designer to work to.

My Touchwood roof (I-Joists) came in 12m blanks. But, I have a large number of the same length of joist with the same cut at each end so was more economical to cut on site.

As per my original comment, a low-key agricultural-type use would likely go unnoticed and unless there was a complaint from a neighbour, would likely be allowed to continue without interference. However, there is no way of knowing how far that use type can be stretched without giving it a go. Nope, I'm referring to Classes A & B where the argument is around the definition of an "Agricultural Unit" ie. land and buildings occupied as a unit for the purposes of agriculture, and, the land for which PD is sort being required to be part of an Agricultural Unit. The argument being that an Agricultural Unit is a business which must already be in place before the PD rights are established. The onus is on the submitter of the Prior Notice to provide sufficient information to confirm their case, and failure to provide information that establishes that the land is part of an Agricultural Unit gives the LPA the opportunity to reject. I'm not saying I agree with the argument, but I've seen it used a number of times.

I'd love there to be an SI somewhere that allows for Agricultural PD on parcels of land less than 0.4 Hectare, as I have just such a piece separated from the main farmstead that could benefit, but Schedule 2 Part 6 of the current GPDO makes no provision for this. http://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/pdfs/uksi_20150596_en.pdf. PD is only available on parcels larger than 0.4 Hectares, anything smaller requires a planning application. If there's a valid alternate interpretation out there, can you post a link as it really could be advantageous to me. I'm sure different LPA's interpret the rules differently, but I have practical experience of an LPA that requires 3 years books to demonstrate a business capable of sustaining an employee in order to benefit from Agricultural PD.

I have to disagree. Any agricultural development, even if covered by PD, requires there to be a business need and a prior notice submission to the planning department. "Business need" requires there to be a demonstrable business that is supporting the owner or a farm worker.

I think it is highly unlikely you would be able to move the foot-print of the new development on to what is currently Agricultural land. It's generally a stretch to get permission for a visually residential use on such land, ie. potting shed, greenhouse or raised borders. You'd generally need to argue "exceptional circumstances".

How obvious or visible is the piece of land? Yep, technically you need to apply for Change of Use. If you plan to build a shed within it, or even erect a washing line of a set of goal-posts, then you should certainly go for a formal Change of Use. If you plan to just mow it, perhaps grow some fruit trees, erect only agricultural type fencing ie. post-and-rail, then you'd be unlikely to be queried about it. Unless a neighbour is likely to inform the Council, and then they have to act.

It is, 100mm thick (+ ring beam) mesh reinforced, with UFH, installed over EPS. We've got a couple of small surface cracks, but as we didn't have plans to polish weren't concerned about the risk of minor cracks.

What's the reason your architect wants to split the slab? Mine's 25.5m x 18.5m and was cast without joints.

As long as the VCL is installed as an airtight layer (taped joints and edges) then that should work, otherwise it will still leak air, it just won't be apparent around your window frame as the leak path will got through into your service void.

Do you have an airtight layer beyond the inherent "airtightness" of the SIPs panel? What level of air tightness are you trying to achieve? To me the DPC looks like a potential air leak path, and with the breather membrane there as well, not entirely necessary (other than on windows/doors that start at ground level). The Sections show straps. Direct fixing through the frame would be better for airtightness. Straps are difficult to seal around. Direct fixing would also help hold the DPC in place if you choose to keep it. I'd say shim the window up to create a gap for a Low expanding foam to fill. 20mm is a big gap. I assume that is 10mm top and bottom (and sides), rather than 20mm top and bottom. The LE foam allows the SIPs to settle without pinching the frames.

Today was day 4 of our planned 4 day install. Even with extra installers onsite for days 3 and 4 we're not quite finished. One more window to do tomorrow, a Solarlux bi-fold. The Internorm windows and doors are all in. I reserve the right to adjust my opinion once the dust settles, but at this point I can't praise the ecoHaus installers highly enough, who have gone "above and beyond" to do a top quality job. Fit and finish is near perfect. Mechanisms are adjusted such that all opening sashes have the same precise feel and weight. Nothing rubs or sticks. Gaps are parallel, adjacent units flush. The air tightness detailing has been done better than if I had done it myself. We have some (mostly) minor areas of damage and the magicman will need to be booked in. With regards to the Internorm product itself, we have the Studio HF310, (except in the utility where we have the UPVC version) and I think it's absolutely superb. Making windows by the million obviously allows them to highly develop their product and their manufacturing processes. I personally feel the window and door package as it is now installed was exceptional value. My fingers are crossed for the bi-fold install tomorrow!

I can see where the cost is going on mine. With 16 man days for the install, delivery costs, consumables, hiring lift equipment, contingency to cover corrections and repairs. Yes the cost is a little "premium", but I'm expecting a premium service.

I've got a similar amount of glazing and the install cost is about £8K for a "Passive House" install including extra tapes etc. They may have underestimated the install though, I started with 2 installers on site Monday and now have 6 this morning. I haven't needed a crane though which I'm sure would have added at least another £1K. Are you going for a high level of airtightness? If so, does your builder understand how to deliver it. The detailing of the "extra" airtightness tape on mine is what seems to be taking the time.

Congrats, can only imagine that it's a great feeling! We're just having the windows installed at present, and "moving in" feels a little beyond the current horizon, hopefully it will come in to sight soon.

In looking into the Rockwool Flexislab, I tripped over Rockwool's RWA45 Acoustic Insulation Slab. It's not got the "Flexi" edge, but is less than half the price based on TP's pricing. Might get a couple of packs in to see if it's easy to install. Thanks all.

Something like this? http://www.knaufinsulation.co.uk/products/glass-mineral-wool-rolls/acoustic-rolls/earthwool-acoustic-roll What thickness did you go with? I looked at this, but thought the 10Kg/m3 "felt" a bit lightweight when compared to other thermal insulation products like the RS45. But the proof of the pudding... so if it's worked for you!

What have people used or plan to use for (acoustic) insulation of stud work walls and above ceilings. Building Regs calls for minimum 40 Rw dB Airborne sound reduction. What's the most cost effective product, that's easy to install to achieve this minimum or to preferably exceed the requirement. I've just noticed the Architect that pulled together my Building Regs has specified Warmcel 500, which seems a little OTT and extra work to install. Thanks.

Thanks all, great feedback!

I assume the steels are close to the underside of the floating element. If so, could you not drop the underside a little further and provide space for wrapping insulation underneath? You may lose some of the "floating" aesthetic, but then one option you're considering it taking it down to floor.

Thanks, what brand and product are you using?

There's been a little careless work around one of my thresholds and I've ended up with the EPS upstand getting chewed up where I need to fit a GRP capping piece. To get the top of the EPS back to flat and smooth I need a Filler product of some sort that will fill up to 10mm - 15mm thick and obviously not react with the EPS. Any thoughts on what I could use? I'm assuming solvent based products risk melting the EPS, but am I being over-cautious? I'll obviously trial on an off-cut before putting anything onto my upstand, but was hoping to narrow the options a little.

Do you know what volume your house is? I've got a similar area and 2 DV110's wouldn't shift enough air, although I do have a proportionally large volume for my floor area. I'm going with a single DV1100 unit. It's a small commercial unit, but still PH Certified. I also found that some Airflow distributors have far better "terms" with Airflow than others. It pays to push Airflow on the RRP price of the designed system (Airflow dropped 18% on their original cost when pushed hard) and then shop around with the spec list to so who will do the best price on it (Travis Perkins got it down a further 7.5%).