JohnMo

I quite like these the Pro version https://uk.ecoflow.com/products/stream-ultra-pro?variant=50839891280211 Not the same from a price perspective, but plug and play, charge in a cheap tariff period. 1.92kWh and 1200W output. But just under £1000

A 100m² floor at 100mm thick holds about 5 to 5.5kWh energy for each Deg you raise it's temp. If the floor is warmer than the room this energy will pass into the room at a ratio of the room to floor dT. Run a 6kW heat pump for 4 hours, it will raise the floor temperature by just over 4 degs (100m2). It makes heat pump selection quite fluid, as long as you have around 20L of engaged water per min output kW of heat source you won't have any cycling issues. The floor is just a massive thermal store. You just need to brave don't listen to the people that have never experienced a thick screed. Plenty of people on here have and wouldn't change it.

Had a look at the notes and they were held in place with framing anchors. Thinking back we were supplied with enough to build several houses.

Our is currently at a lowly 23, heat pump selected to heat, a while ago, as I didn't need cooling. Circulation pump is on, floor dropped to 20.1 overnight, but is currently at 20.8, soaking up the free sunshine. Heat pump actually ran about 5 days ago as overnight it dropped to 4 degs after a dull wet day. It just looks after itself as @Nick Laslett says.

Out of date by a decade or 2. Most of Europe has been running Weather Compensation or room compensation for years and the boilers sold there have to run weather compensation, so boiler flows down to 20 to 25 are mandatory. My Atag, did so once an outside sensor is attached. All Viessmann boilers do plus many more. The British boiler market is just way out of date. You need to be a combi boiler or priory hot water setup to allow low low temps for heating and high temps for DHW.

They are a bird mouth at the ridge beam. Would have to go back through the structural drawings but believe they are angled nails.

I had plenty tell me airtight was a disaster, my house would be full of mould in 3 months. They were wrong. Have they ever experienced a thick screed house in your case maybe not. First alarm bell is So they operate the system by thermostat not WC. Thick screed is glacial in response time from cold. But that is point of WC it drip feeds the floor. A well insulated house is also glacial in response so match each other well. It absorbs lots of energy and that's the point in a lot of respects. It rides temperature swings pretty well. It's a low temperature heat source for the house, it self modulates well. Think screed high UFH is what they are referring to so very different.

Do a Google search on MCS umbrella scheme. How good or bad they are, anyone's guess. Suppose you need to try them, see what they output system wise and cost wise, buffers, glycol, stupid large ASHP etc, move on or challenge, see what the response is.

Maybe get worse before it gets better. Don't the better guys just use the system and navigate around it where needed. Do a justification if required to keep a box ticked. If you can acquire the skills yourself - do it yourself.

Nice use of Imperial and metric units, possibly best to stick with metric throughout. You could easily use posi joust/rafter with that span - we are doing 7m at 600mm centers. But you should be having structural engineer input, not designed by a committee of unknowns.

Not sure what happened to the link https://pirateheatingsupplies.com/product/frv-flow-regulating-valves/ Sold by quite a few places Also found this midsummer-frv-combined-leaflet-web.pdf

@JamesPa - it will make you cry, skip the first couple of posts. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/45364-ssr-query/#comment-633802

Pretty poor install really. Why a buffer at all, if you are running single zone? Then you can delete the interface, the secondary pump, all the actuators on the UFH manifold. Either bypass the buffer totally or convert to a volumiser (I would convert to volumiser as you have it).

The cone filter is in the room terminal, so as not to allow anything to get in the ducts. Plus suitable seperation between grease source and extract terminal.

Why do you need a SSR to drive a circulation pump?

We actually had no one that smoked, from the trades we employed. Made the statement about no smoking, when they came on site, all said they didn't smoke.

Yep if you don't fit them they don't of perform very well at all. 😁

Good quick start guide, and a sensible ventilation and heating system. Well done. A low heat loss house it's sometimes way more sensible just to use storage heaters.

That's not how it works the grant isn't a fixed value, it's a fixed max value up to £7500.

Designing that could be problematic in the long term as grease is carried upwards and if you are not careful and have suitable grease filters at the terminals your ducts could be coated in grease then dust etc... We purposely did the exact opposite, our extract is the other side of the room, about 4m from the hob. We always have a G3 or G4 cone filter in the terminal, it mops up any grease that may get there and any dust anyway

What pressure is it jumping from? What pressure is your expansion vessel set at? Has it been checked?

We did recirculation, but we hardly ever use it. MVHR does the job 99% of the time. If we have a few pots boiling, I may put MVHR on to boost, but that's a couple of times a year. Good hob extractors aren't cheap. If you go recirculating the charcoal filters need to be the regeneration type.

I would go back to basics, look at the heat loads for each room, map out the kW needed for each radiator and assess bottlenecks and then have a targeted plan of what to change. Did see these for dialing in the radiator flow rate rather than guessing what should go through it. gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22603472091&gbraid=0AAAAA_uQOsJMNQDNZy3kZPgMIc8u_tP-t&gclid=CjwKCAjw89jGBhB0EiwA2o1OnxCGb19yDCsYXChkOKd1KPrPTzeaei0zYmwFhbRlHwdSlPl7y2oQnRoC4ogQAvD_BwE Cool Energy seem to be well priced

Your either a skinny one already or you need to work harder. So get a move on. Too much time sat in your bum writing on buildhub. No buildhub for me while I was building.

Start with basics zero cost options. Have you tried balancing the system? Water will take the easiest route possible, so if given any chance of short circuiting the last rad it will. Vibration through pipes needs a flexible hose at the heat pump on flow and return, doesn't need to be any particular shape.