JohnMo

Glad I live in Scotland, the rules are black and white on what has to be provided, none of this messing about, I would like this and not that.

Inverter is dead without mains, otherwise you kill every lines man in a power cut.

Ask @flanagaj what he paid, then pay more than that. Then you won't have to come here asking questions about basic design stuff, that should be in the drawings already.

Although amended by @Nickfromwales the inverter will have a 13A type plug, to allow it plug directly into a standard wall socket.

What model of fiat would that be, a Panda 4x4?

Think a lot of the plug in solar systems I have seen seem to be a couple of panels connected to a battery inverter and 3 pin plug (socket?) If you have existing battery and PV, you may need to scratch your head how each play with each other.

Unless it has a CT clamp by meter, it will just export what isn't used by the house. If your current inverter has export limitations via a CT clamp, it would back off output from main system to compensate.

Just the same way as would connected to CU. CT clamp on main wire between meter and CU.

Plug in solar is just that, you can plug the inverter into a normal socket, not have to take it back to CU. Will be limited I suspect on array kWp rating etc. Export, no reason why not, but suspect as it's not mcs, you will not be paid. Be pretty much like a normal inverter, no grid no PV.

Actual sensible stuff from a government! Stranger things have happened, but not often.

Ok stay with 3 loops, as output well below 16mm already. Sorry assumed 16mm pipe.

You know how to spend money, not the cheap way to do anything. We used a couple of times for small ICF fill areas and it allowed to barrow it in. But small quantities cost nearly the same as the bulk fills.

You pay by the load you order, if you only wanted 24m³, that's what you should have asked for. What slump did you ask for?

Proper buildings don't put up with fragile smart home stuff (most homes don't). They want / need a robust system, that any one understands, can manage and repair - not calling in a tinkerer from their garage or man/woman shed. Hence stating you need a BMS (building management system).

Just read on your blog "As each of those is estimated to generate 1W (typical) to 4W (max) then I might expect the entire MotorWind assembly to generate 8 times that." Not a lot output...

Seems a lot of work your doing to get around an early purchase. You really should add wall, floor and roof u values to loopcad. You may find 240mm pipe spacing are fine for hall and utility. Then you get down to 2 loops. Your dT of 11 really needs to be between 3 and 5. Not sure how you control flow rates down to 0.3L/min.

They may have realised the were sh!te. Bottom of the blade needs to around 2 to 3m above ridge line to be effective, otherwise to much turbulence

How are you getting that much, Octopus have just reduced to 12p

I just wouldn't bother, more tatt sold to people. You going to need high flow temps for a long time to get to 27 degs. What is your heat source and how is it plumbed in to the UFH? Is this a new build or retrofit?

Duplicate post advertising another post - ignore go to the one with a proper description and photos

Replace with exactly the same thing. Last lot lasted 26 years. Mini digger will make light work of it. Dig trench place posts back fill with an almost dry concrete mix. Add an open membrane to the back of the posts, to filter the water as it makes it's way out the raised area.

It will only take you a couple of days!

If you read proper install manuals for good wind turbines, the distance required from say a roof to the bottom of the turbine blade is huge. In a domestic situation, they can almost never be installed correctly, so output generally is the best part of zero. Big turbines well away from stuff are great, small one near stuff, utter rubbish.

Our house at one point, only had Rockwool Flexi in all the internal walls, and woodcrete external walls - deathly silent. Was a shock as the plasterboard went up, lots more noise etc.

We have a similar sized room. Soft things is key. We did look into that, but they took away from the clean lines, and doing the actual sizing I needed huge amounts of panels, and they wanted huge amounts of money. If you are having curtains they will knock huge amount of echo off the room. Rugs (even thin ones) the same. Soft stuff is good, hard stuff not so good.