JohnMo

I flow at a minimum of 12 degs, but at the bottom of a 100mm screed. Heat for two x 4hr blocks a day will bring the floor surface to about 19 or 20, room temp could be at 26. So pulling a fair amount of heat away. But a bit like UFH heating in well insulated houses temperature are not really very extreme. Think the surface temp in winter gets to about 23, 24 on a very cold day, could be at 19 or 20 without cooling on, when it's wet and dull for a few days. Or 19 to 20 degs when it's hot inside - So we are are only talking a few degrees of temperature swings.

I just wait till the wife is out, and then do stuff. Just make sure you don't have that as the only loops on-line or you may end up short cycling (unless you have a buffer volume). That's because it feels colder than the actual air temperature. The floor is colder than the surroundings and a big area, so it's pulling heat out of you.

That's all we used in each wet room (except ceiling) - but no tanking. Done the same in about 8 houses no issue. Where there are tiles we didn't tape at all.

We don't have a Brink unit, but ours uses volt free contacts for boost. I have just used something similar to this https://www.screwfix.com/p/british-general-900-series-10ax-1-gang-2-way-press-retractive-switch-white/21849?tc=TA5&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-O6zBhASEiwAOHeGxbjClTJurl32V3-e1_kTjztGco0OtS2LAYa7ZsXcrtGteX801eDE1xoCfAUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Once MVHR is up and running and the house has dried out, you don't really need to boost that much, if at all. Just let the inbuilt humidity sensor do the work. And stick one boost switch in the kitchen as a handy place to have a boost.

Did them in a couple of rentals, never really thought they were that good. Prefer a good old tile. Decent choice of tile, good ventilation (ensures grout looks good for years), equals nice bathroom

I did that and found the floor was looking a matt colour, after 24 hrs, so just do it in 4hr blocks (2x a day) now so the floor surface temp doesn't fall below dew point.

Once your house is dried out you really don't need it too. Not even sure when ours boosted last. Certainly don't need boost in the heating season.

I would be tempted to swop out any intermittent fans for dMEV. You can easily do this one at a time, do high use rooms first, like the main bathroom. These run at very low flow rates, all the time and provide a good amount of background ventilation, cost between £2 and £4 a year to run each. Ideally you would have trickle vents in the bedrooms and living room (not generally needed in wet rooms), then you would get a good cross ventilation effect across the whole house. But with the extractor in the kitchen (when off) the dMEV will draw air in via that hole in the wall and if ventilated to the inside, any chimneys etc. Ideally you would have one dMEV fan in each wet room and kitchen. Greenwood CV2GIP are very quite (almost silent), have automated smart boost so they only boost to the reaction of increasing humidity over a short period (showering for example). They come up on eBay for very reasonable prices quite often. So to answer your question - I would add a fan to the kitchen, but only the dMEV type, most the time it would replace the need to have the noisy main extract fan on, reserve that for smelly foods only.

Not sure you should change any setting, once setup. Not touched mine for over a year except filter clean/replace. MVHR will do nothing much to help cooling, as it only changes the house air once every 2 to 3 hours. We operate the following way. MVHR always on. In summer we keep all doors and windows closed while the house is cooler than outside, once the house is warmer than outside, we open windows and doors to get a good blow through.

So ventilation strategy is where to start. Do you have any mould or damp issues? Have you improved insulation or drafts by doing your changes to the house? Do you have fire places are these all blocked off? Any bathroom fans? All the above helps answer your original question

What is your overall ventilation strategy for the whole house?

Easiest way is to put the thermostat to say 27 degs, that will believe there is a demand for heat start up the UFH. But bigger question is, do you need the complications of loop actuators, pump start delay and the wiring centre. A decent cooling and heating thermostat (Computherm Q20RF for example) and let that start the pump directly. Radiators are useless at cooling.

Speak to your solicitor.

Get E7 electric, direct unvented cylinder heat by immersion on E7. Heat house with a couple of storage heaters

Or the council could order you to take it down i.e. deconstruction

No I am as qualified as any one else, I am the G3 competent person. So can do my own or anyone else's sign off. Our council were not interested in the UVC being registered with themselves.

Yep. I did a course at the local college for Unvented Cylinders and did my own. 1/2 day all done.

You can can still have a vented cylinder i.e. tap water. The heating system for your UFH and heating the cylinder is pressurised, ie the bits connected to the heat pump.

Easy enough at the build stage. Wet UFH below screed, electric above.

World heat is a different company to mitsubishi. You would need to look for World Heat. That does not sound right, 40 to 50L is nearer There shouldn't be any radiators that are too small, ask them about why there are?

Shop https://www.outsourcedenergy.co.uk/shop/

When I used the pump I was sceptical, but it's super quite, pulls next to no power. I used as a return booster (different story). But was happy with it.

Outsourced Energy That's where I got mine

I would just store at 55 to 60, with a gas boiler reheat time will be about 10 mins, your losses will be negligible. More important is suitable insulation on the pipework that will loose way more than the cylinder. Best bang for the buck is always choose a heat pump cylinder for any heat source. Fast reheats, gas boiler nearly condense all the time for added efficiency. Air in system causes corrosion of the heat exchanger, less efficient heat exchange throughout the system. Yes every instruction manual I have read (I like reading manuals) has required piping that is not air permeable and to be pressurised. I am talking heating water not fresh water.

Wife does occasionally, she used to most days in the last house, but doesn't so often in this one. May be a different feel to the house Your heating system will not have a tank in the loft, it will be pressurised to about 1 bar. So you little tank won't be there with a heat pump.