JohnMo

Lot of things wrong Heat loss calculation say 5.5kW heat loss. But heat pump at design conditions can put out 9.5kW. it's too big a heat pump. Flow temp is a joke, push for 35 degs, for a decent running cost, otherwise take out a second mortgage. Or just don't bother.

Find your local water diviner. Ours found where our bore hole should be located and depth to drill, and was out by a metre on depth and spot on with location. £80 well spent.

No, if it's a Vaillant, you are unlikely to be in a protective zone height wise, so the first clause doesn't get you. But in a different sector states the second clause. 1. Vaillant says for example A protective zone is defined around the product. There must be no windows, doors, light shafts, cellar entrances, escape hatches, flat-roof windows or ventilation openings in the protective zone. But even with a window move and outside the protective zone it also states the below. 2. Avoid choosing an installation position which is near to a window. Interesting my R32 does not mention windows at all.

Read the manufacturer instructions for the unit you are interested in. The instructions trump everything else.

Missed a bit of detail. Cold and hot domestic water 1m from cylinder. All pipes on the heating circuit for the cylinder insulate, so you are not heating the insulated envelope in the summer. Pipes for the central heating circuit, no point insulating. Any void pipes pass through will either will be heated by room above, below or adjacent to by secondary heating from the rooms. As heat always moves to cold. Might not make sense in a high temp heating system, but a heat pump one it should.

Every decking needs maintenance, we pressure wash ours at least once a year, doesn't need to be coated (composite) but it does need to be kept clean and algae free.

Why would it, the hybrid inverter would be attached to the PV panel system for example. That would manage flow in and out of the system.

You can get anti slip wood decking coated in a very rough sand filled coating. Suspect as it's factory applied there would be much maintenance. Seen it used in commercial settings. Not good for bare feet through

Or a decent AC coupled battery will provide the whole house with electricity automatically. You don't even notice the mains power going. We get up 6kW continuously and up to 7kW for switching loads. It's a definite add it later option, can used normal string inverters, doesn't need hybrid.

Fan coils are designed really for commercial. A 4 port configuration is for different heat and cooling plant. Not really for a domestic setting where heat and cooling is provided by an ASHP.

Good for you, do you have planning and warrant yet? where abouts in the North?

Ultra deck - Signature Dual. About a third the price of our local builders merchants. Comparing it seems identical, exactly the same colour on both sides, same dimensions same material.

Looking at the data sheet The 4 port cooling capacity is only slightly lower than the 2 port - about 5%. The heating capacity is 30% lower. So unlikely to be just cut in half.

We have had quite a few power cuts, no alerts or anything

You don't even do that anymore, push joints or pressed joints. And really you only need those pipes within 1m of the cylinder and outside, anything inside the heated envelope is heating the house, so unless you are cooling below dew point not much need. In fact Heat Geek say don't bother.

I have one and it's a Myson iVector 120, 4 pipe, so has two heat exchangers (normally one for heat, and one for cooling) but have these are piped in series, so both are always engaged allow me to heat at much lower temps.

Correct

When on cooling mode there is always a slug of cold water that gets sent to cylinder coil. Not much different to the ASHP being off, the whole pipe contents will have cooled down to atmospheric temp. So a call for DHW heating then a similar slug would also get sent to the cylinder. Nothing clever seems to occur.

That would be it, (not checking what I'm typing)

Decent deep fill filler, couple of coats, deep fill to fill the gap and the second a fine filler to take up the shrinkage. Your terminal will cover it also.

MVHR is just ventilation, leave it to get on with ventilation, no heating or cooling coils, they work a bit, but not really worth the faff and huge cost. Solar PV, again pretty much leave it as stand alone, ASHP and MVHR will naturally use any electric before it gets exported. Install a diverter to immersion if you don't get paid for export. ASHP leave it to do either DHW or heat and cool via a 3 port diverter. That gives 3 stand alone projects, nothing is lost in translation, all should be pretty basic installs. And everything @Dave Jones said.

As promised - system layout and control. My DHW is a bit more convoluted than normal as the cylinder is remote from everything else and needed an additional pump, so hydraulically separated via a CCT Heating Layout and Control.pdf

The white one is for the cylinder. When was the last time your cylinder was serviced? You need to be competent to work on unvented systems and they should be services annually.

Will go on to the computer tomorrow and add a copy - has all the settings etc

Correct My automation is simple - the wife says for for a day or two "it's cold/hot isn't it". Flick summer winter switch, set thermostat to heat or cool. Takes about a minute twice a year - not worth the effort to automate. Trouble with automation you could get into heat cool ping pong without realising