JohnMo

Delivery issues have made me cancel the order. So now will just add a 1kW string inverter. A Viridian 1kW inverter ordered from city plumbing. All in the 1kW system will be under £500.

Started the roof and added some more structural timber to roof. Ended up with a very short section of roof at end of the PV panels. But a plant will be located directly below so will be watered every time it's raining. Started painting but rain kept starting so have abandoned that for now.

Mine is in the shed outside. With all the filter stuff.

So most of the time house battery will be supplying during day. The only big users are battery charging at night for house and car, and during winter heat pump. House battery charger isn't going to pull anymore than about 6kW, 2kW for heat pump. 80A x 230v, is approx 18.5kW. That gives you nearly 10kW for car charging. 7 hrs at 10kW is 70kWh or around 280 miles per day. So reality is you stack charge several cars per night. Do you really need more than that? All this 3 phase for residential homes is utter nonsense.

Yep, got prices, took wife to see windows, 2 mins later we were in the car on the way home, the windows were cr@p - I got more prices. I took advice from several contractors, do your own leg work. Go around show rooms try opening and closing, look for gaps etc. if they can't do a good job for a showroom, you've no hope.

That's exactly how I have always done it generally use Dulux trade emulsion, and add 25% water, mix well and apply. That's the first coat and then full strength once dried. All our walls are done that way, mist coat and another coat, 4 years later still fine.

There is This my strip foundation structural drawings. We fine tuned it a little, for internal walls. Inverting the engineering brick on top of thermolite.

Can you add an attachment - not sure what you have added but it doesn't open. I found the gains weren't worth the cost. I used thermolite blocks, with engineered bricks on top to attach stud walls.

But you are running UFH, so a cop of 4 or more would be realistic, not 3. In the 80s the boiler would be definitely better running at 70+ degs and be pre condensing technology, so only about 60 to 80% efficiency. 1400 x 4 = 5600kWh heat your heat 8600 x 80% = 6880kWh heat BBC high 8600 x 60% = 5160kW heat bbc low So not really a lot different when you do maths.

Just asked for our gas to be removed. Asked last week and octopus will remove in two weeks. Zero cost. But only the meter removal. Pipe is a different story, but for us, that and the cabinet can stay for ever, as long as a service charge is gone.

Simple but good controls easy to adjust, but it's a derated larger unit, so depth of modulation is a little limited, which is a downside, but managed to get it to run as I want it to.

You have a very thick roof profile with minimum insulation. Have you looked an outer membrane that requires no ventilation air gaps, then use a deeper profile rafter, and full fill with 250-300mm of mineral wool? Then underdrawing with 25mm PIR or insulated plasterboard? Way more simple to construct and less reliance on the workers doing a good job of installing the PIR into all the gaps.

https://www.ryeoil.co.uk/shop/decking-oil/ It is actually ceder oil, I use on the house larch cladding. Or paint it with Jotun Demidekk, I used on our shed (larch) been on a couple of years still looks the same as the day it went on. The oils in larch will push it off. Once tried with ceder it all peeled off.

I'm using a Maxa 6kW R32 ASHP. It's a pretty simple ASHP.

You can A simple cooling or heating thermostat is a Computherm Q7RF, but a nicer and easier to use one is the Q20RF. I also have a polypipe wiring centre (same as Roth badged one), that can be manually selected between heat and cool or will automatically change over with a zero volt input. But I just have the call for heat/cool with a jumper in permanently. I just switch between heat or cool. Cool has a slight WC curve.

So are you proposing to boost the MVHR at the same time. And running at 7 degs instead of UFH flow of 12? To make it effective? I would run two MVHR units on for bedrooms and the rest of the house. Have you done the heat reduction calculations?

Really depends on distance from cylinder. May just take in cool water so it will heat anyway and deplete the cylinder. Solar only really applicable in summer. Different washers are/ can be more efficient energy wise. We just move our Bosch washer to the garage (it used loads of electricity) and moved to a Samsung it seems way better on electric.

Just run the heat pump at about 12 degs and no lower, then you don't generate condensation. My fan coil has no drain connector to the pan, no issue. If I flow at 7 degs plenty of condensation likely. Your radiators will be pretty much the same, but not really contribute to cooling. I would try before you change stuff.

1 m³/m² at 50Pa, as found by them.

A bit of progress before the rain. Previous wooden wall shortened and reassembled. Hopefully the rest of the wood will arrive tomorrow. Have an issue with Ecoflow, are now saying the item ordered is in short supply and delish delayed. Asked by how long and no reply by Friday, so will be in phone first thing tomorrow, to get a straight answer.

Interesting, but all the bio stuff takes credit for CO2 sucked up during growing, they still chuck it out of the tailpipe. Still produce NOx, CO, particulates etc

They are still being sold

Or the typing pool that all got sacked (sorry made redundant)

If we want to move away from fossil fuels, it's not just about doing the right thing. No one is saying a poor insulation, just one that can run at a higher temperature whilst not having a hideous running cost. Currently the government gives a grant of £7500, many will pay a huge additional chuck of money on top of that to get a heat pump installed, so it runs at low flow temperature. But will then have to pay additional funds (many thousands) towards the install. So you may save a little on gas price, but the price overall paid for near parity on running costs is huge. ASHP are a rich persons game, the normal person will turn around and say how much - install a new combi please. We need the opposite mind set. On paper, but many houses need circulation pipes, radiators replaced, With a lower electric price, why wouldn't all the above stay in place, except 45 Deg. The lower unit cost allows the 45 degs to become higher, you can run a wider dT on heat pump and still have tolerable running costs. You still run WC but it's only the coldest days when flow temp is high. Your average 7 Deg winter day you may be flowing high 30 low 40s. You get a heat pump installed, but you not having to install a new heating system, just a different heat source.

The thing I noted they had a fancy zoned controlled heating system for the different heat sources, that made the house uncomfortable, so they switch it off, when people started living in the house. The circulation pump on Totem generator/heater was huge.