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JohnMo

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Everything posted by JohnMo

  1. JohnMo
    Just choose one to suit your needs. My choice will not be yours.
  2. JohnMo
    If it anything to do with the listed building, listed building consent is mandatory and so is planning, without it at the extreme can lead to a custodial sentence. So the statement listed consent not required, means it's nothing to do with the listed building - or very bad advise (been there and been bitten). If the house next door is listed and the OP building is not, and the wall is the OPs it certainly nothing to do with listed. So why planning?
  3. JohnMo
    Still don't understand what the fig this has to do with planning - it's an existing wall between to two gardens? Where does planning come into it? Can anyone explain?
  4. JohnMo
    Foam or woodcrete ICF?
  5. JohnMo
    That really doesn't make sense. If no listed building consent required it not part of the listed building - fine. But why do you need planning to repair a dividing wall in a garden. Maybe you asked the wrong question or phrased it incorrectly? If the wall belongs to next door? Pass the bricks back to them and let them do what ever they want with them. If it belongs to you, go to B&Q get some gabions, go round your garden find nice stones, back fill gabion with bricks and face with nice stones. Do as you can afford it.
  6. JohnMo
    Why Just do a thick screed, then who cares about modulation, mine will run for hours at about 5kW, (spent an age thinking it needed to modulate - but the floor is just pulling all the heat you can throw at it) when it's done what it needs to, it shuts down. Generally get a cop of 5+ when running. Why do you need variable speed, most will do it, but very few really use it much. If your doing cooling assume via UFH? They all come with WC, except very basic ones and they don't get MCS certificate. So wouldn't get a grant. Unless you get it for free you are being taken for a ride, then you may as well DIY. As @Nickfromwales says just get a Panasonic.
  7. JohnMo
    Believe they are rebranded other makes. But with their own spin on the controller. Most heat pump are much of a muchness. Main thing to worry about is the system design it's hooked up to and the way YOU operate.
  8. JohnMo
    Didn't really ask, just said that was what I wanted, only have double glazed in a set of french doors and three other single doors, the rest is triple glazed.
  9. JohnMo
    Couple things spring to mind, assuming hot and cold are connected correctly. If you have moved from an oil or gas boiler, the mixers maybe set up for high temperature hot water, so they are mixing in lots of cold. A lot of shower mixers have an adjustable mixer setting, inside the handle. You are trying to store water at a temperature not suitable for mixers. You need water above 45 for many to work acceptably. (ours were not much use until over 47)
  10. JohnMo
    You may need to include the screed type as the screed make up will affect the answers you receive I suspect.
  11. JohnMo
    Pozi rafters and anything manually fitted for installation would be a utter pain. To get it done well expensive and not likely to happen. Blown in gets everywhere (when done well - will slump over time, when not done well). We did spray foam, really quick hardly any mess, vapour stop membrane below, breather membrane above. Not the same job as a cowboy installer spraying under a vapour stop old membrane in a cold roof.
  12. JohnMo
    We have 100mm concrete above insulation and pipes are stapled to insulation. Slow response (but that is mostly down to 300mm pipe spacing), but that's fine. It gives a steady consistent house temperature. You can charge floor on cheap rate, with excess PV energy via heat pump, no issues. You use it like a big storage heater. You can do straight Weather compensation. Zones and setback times are a bit of waste of time, so keep it simple. We have a sunny 10 Deg day, with 2 degs expected overnight. Plenty of excess PV today, floor charged up for free, heating done until tomorrow. No house over heating.
  13. JohnMo
    I wouldn't bother with the faff. And agro if it all doesn't go to plan, and you get a wet ceiling. If doing the roof light and PV, keep the two apart, by making the PV array smaller or roof light smaller. Or find a new home for the SVP and do the engineered solution from GSE/Velux.
  14. JohnMo
    The GSE trays have flashing at the side and top and it's all interconnected to stop water getting where it shouldn't be. While maintaining air movement. Omit the side flashing and your own thing at your risk is what GSE would say. Perhaps put one panel less on the roof to get space to do things correctly? move SVP, then go velux? Dump the roof light?
  15. JohnMo
    Or just go for an already engineered solution. VELUX Solar Integrator ODL The VELUX Solar Integrator ODL is a flashing solution designed especially for solar panels. The solution enables a seamless installation of VELUX roof windows with a GSE IN-ROOF system. The low-profile flashing design ensures.... Your plan misses out the side flashing which stops water ingress under side of GSE trays, from top or by wind driven from underneath. Any flashing would need to tie everything together to stop leaks.
  16. JohnMo
    Just fix as if it's wood, any adhesive treat as eps. Gorilla glue works well. Long screws and rawlplugs also
  17. JohnMo
    Geography lesson United Kingdom, made up of England, Scotland, Wales and Northern Ireland. UK I take it you mean England? No you can't. But as I said the roof build up is vague at best, at the wood fibre layer, there seems to be 3 options (OSB, wood fibre or sarking boards), which is pretty poor, there should be no options, it should state what is expected.
  18. JohnMo
    The plan is vague stating slate or concrete tiles. But they both have a different roof build up. Concrete Tiles need the battens and counter battens on sarking boards, natural slate on the other hand, just needs the breather membrane on sarking boards and then the slates directly attached to sarking boards.
  19. JohnMo
    Our pipes were below everything (at hardcore level, so about 450mm below FFL. We took 110mm pipe to the shower tray and then stopped screed / concrete with additional insulation, to act a mould. Once I was ready the insulation was removed, to leave a void to work with. The drainage fully completed for the shower tray, I back filled the space with concrete, then did flush fit shower tray.
  20. JohnMo
    You can get blown mineral wool also, so may be another option
  21. JohnMo
    Should be free, they f*cked up and did it incorrectly - if not just with hold £xxxx from final bill, and issue them a bill if you fix it
  22. JohnMo
    Wouldn't the simple answer be to get builder, to add packers to the existing joists to bring up to level needed? Your solution looks complex and maybe needlessly so, and maybe more costly than it needs to be. The above assumes the joists are per drawing spec.
  23. JohnMo
    Mine is a slightly different answer to the above. You really need to map where your air comes and goes. What directions does it travel. We did supply, so we slightly over ventilate the main bedroom, air then moves to ensuite and excess air goes under door and down a corridor to make sure hall is ventilated also. It all about balance and getting best ventilation for buck. One solution doesn't suit all. But saying above - is the dressing room a wet room? no, so you do supply, not extract.
  24. JohnMo
    But what does your structural engineer say - he will have a view based on bond strength and wind loads etc.
  25. JohnMo
    Just go double with krypton gas, instead of argon. Look the same as argon, should be getting a Uw of 1.1 with good frame design.
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