JohnMo

If you treat as vented you may not or wouldn't have an expansion vessel, inlet control group, or PRV. A unvented cylinder is just that, once installed you have zero control what the home owner will or not do. The rules at least make sure that at install stage, a basic set of rules are in place.

still don't agree, one rule for all appliances, then you don't someone deciding to fit an inline immersion or adding a gas boiler later and then blow their house up. If you want vented rules install a vented cylinder, if you want unvented then G3, simple.

Too many heat cycles to keep it reliable without regular replacement. Plus some numpy would see a hole in it, and replace with some random bit of metal from the shed.

Absolutely out of date nonsense. Just bought an ASHP that does 80 Deg flow temp, unassisted.

A service is supposed to test stuff and then fix and replace items needed. A standard item is test glycol and top up as required. They are also supposed to clean the condenser (finned heat exchanger you fan blows through), clean the casing, inspect expansion vessel pre charge pressure and top up as needed. A cylinder that has got a defective expansion vessel should not be put back in service, as the expansion vessel is a safety item, and be an item to fix asap, as the home owner would no longer have hot water. If you took your car for a service and it came back with a service invoice stating your oil and filter needed to be replaced, and you will need to book that in as it's additional cost, you would be well pissed. That is the service level you have just experienced with ASHP.

The first I found - 17mm deep, there are loads on the market. The bigger dia ones are way better than a 101 small ones doted about everywhere. https://www.simplelighting.co.uk/6w-circular-led-panel-120mm-diameter-warm-natural-cool-white-led/

Change the design of down lighters, you can get them sub 20mm if you want. Make life simple and not complex

And we currently get most days supplied by wind already. The more wind farms the better for me. At least the tax payer isn't paying hand over fist for decades while generation sites are built, unlike nuclear, which then gobbles up money for the next 100 generations managing the waste and securing the site that cannot be cleaned and stays irradiated.

Mine is Proctor Roofshield Standard blurb The Roofshield breathable membrane is unique due to its patented melt blown core and its three layer nonwoven spun bonded polypropylene construction. It has been designed for use as a pitched roof underlay that is fixed beneath the slates and tiles. The Proctor Roofshield breathable membrane will provide you with a secondary barrier to wind, rain, and snow. It is successfully able to eliminate the incidence of inner condensation in pitched roofs due its air permeability and low vapour resistance. If you’re looking for the most cost effective solution to controlling condensation in a pitched roof, then look no further than the Roofshield breathable membrane. This is currently the only product on the market that can offer you all of the following: Air permeability Doesn’t need an additional vapour control layer Hydrophobically treated Low vapour resistance Supplied in rolls of 1 m x 50 m UV resistance Water resistance

You can either suck air from the loft and blow out of room vents, or suck in through room vents and blow out of wet rooms. I prefer the later but either will work. PIV may be easier to install. But either way I would want it humidity controlled to limit ventilation when possible. So fan humidity controlled and room vents the same. This way you only really ventilate where it's needed. So if PIV, find one with humidity control of fan speed Or dMEV fans in wetrooms only, something like Greenwood CV2 or CV3.

No it's an MVHR combined inlet and outlet

Why PIR, it could shrink, giving you breaks in the insulation. I take it's going between the 125mm studs? I would increase depth of stud and do mineral wool, wood fibre or even cellulose pumped in. If it's not structural why not use 600mm centres this will lead to fewer thermal bridges.

That's because everyone is brain washed by plumbers wanting to install 30kW+ boilers. Doesn't that far out. MCS start doing 2 or 3 ach which soon racks up the heat loss. Your calculations assumes the room above is also heated, which is fine if it is. And should be with ASHP anyway.

Effectively completely ignore the GSE instructions, they are not applicable to a sarking board roof. Attach the trays direct to the sarking, through the membrane

You have self balanced actuators, maybe it was just going through a learning period, some can take quite awhile. With SQ610, you have a setting that optimises control to the Salus self balancing valves. Go on to Google and search for the full instructions for the SQ610, not the quick guide that comes with the thermostat.

Buy the correct aluminium capping pre made. You will not get a sharp bend without a proper bender, and depending on grade of aluminium it may crack.

So do you have an issue?

Not sure I would ever hand that over to someone - what you actually want and they will assume is ok for will be very different. Do your own leg work. Get the right architect they will handle that for you. Turnkey and to first fix are very different. Turnkey you give them an empty site, you then move your furniture in. First fix is generally before any plasterboard has been installed. Lots of work to do after 1st fix

Long reply Sorry it's huge. You need good modulation at the 7 degrees point. But it only modulates down to 4.32kW at 7 degs. Our winter average temp is around 7 degs so your heat pump spends most it's time in that range of output. Your heat demand at design point is lower than that. But their next size down, in real terms, is too small for your demand. So you will get cycling and have a hard time setting it up. Your scop is likely to be high 3s. But if you get a more appropriate sized heat pump your SCoP should be low 5s to mid 5s. My current heat pump is 6kW, but since purchasing I have found it's actually a software limited 10kW, modulation is similar to the Cool Energy unit. I have got it running acceptably, but it's just took big a mild temps. So that has a few impacts - Your target flow temperature is higher to make up for cycling. It was 7 degs yesterday target flow temp was 29 degs, cycling was 40 mins on 90 mins off. So I got a cop associated with a 29 Deg flow temp, CoP yesterday was 4.6. However is it didn't cycle and ran steady state, flow temp target would only need to be 23 degs and CoP would be closer to 6.3. A saving of 2.3kWh as a good estimate on one day.

Guess I should have looked at the spec correctly - yes 25A, not 100A.

Two basic models, WQ610 is for radiators and SQ610 for UFH. If you have a WQ on UFH and you have any self learning functions active, the thermostat loses all control as the algorithm is wrong for the application. A WQ will work with UFH, but only if you use in a simple on off mode. Been there, done it, got the tee shirt.

I have a SONOFF POWR3, it will do a 100A, so driving an immersion is a walk in the park. Have in parallel to an immersion time switch. I used for PV diverting. Pretty quiet, will connect to home assistant if you want.

A GivEnergy AIO comes with a default setting of ECO, this can be switched on or off. Turning Eco Off requires you to set specific Timed Charge, Timed Discharge, or Timed Export schedules. So set eco off, you can set the charge during a cheap period and set a timer discharge this would discharge to house until flat or time window has elapsed. It would ignore PV so it would all be exported. Once battery is flat it would remain so, ignoring any PV until next charge window. You can also schedule a discharge to grid. This an AC coupled battery

Which quantum model? There is one for UFH and one for radiators. Do you have self learning stopping starting on or off?

I would check the thermostat settings and your controller. If rooms are 10 degs and you have the thermostat set at 8 degs, where is your boiler call for heat coming from. More details needed