JohnMo

That is pretty easy for most builds. One caveat, you and everyone else are working to the same drawing revision. People change stuff, they assume because they know, and the architect knows, everyone does. I had final sign off on all drawings for the build, once our building warrant was approved, no drawings got changed, no details where changed. But that isn't the case very often. So dot you eyes and cross you tees.

Make sense to have something obvious like a DC isolator to kill the PV at ground level outside - I have a DC isolator outside near the front door. Isolator hidden in the fabric of the building or in a loft not easy for anyone. If switching under load kills the inverter who cares.

Keep seeing these threads, and still see zero point with most of what people do with automation. Waste of time and money. But fill your boots. My current lighting scheme, is side lights in the lounge from a normal light switch and 3A wall sockets. Don't need home assistant or shelly or any other smart relay. Got a box of them, all removed, in my cr@p I bought box and was waste of money. 4 years in house, no smoke or heat alarms have ever gone off. They will all be binned at year 10 and replaced with new. If they go there's an issue. Heat alarms in kitchen don't react to you burning your toast.

But it has a modulating circulation pump which will change output based on dT, so not sure that can be fully true. If 14.4kW isn't enough the return temp will always be low. So if the boiler has been range rated to 40% it will constantly chase it's tail. So @EinTopaz what is the boiler range rated too?

So, boiler will have a target flow temperature with overshoot hysterisis. But, it also has a control set point for dT. The circulation pump and boiler modulation will adjust to maintain dT then add more heat as dT closes down. I suspect the heating system return temperature is holding everything back, but this must be at or close to target otherwise the boiler output would not modulate down. So boiler is doing what it should it has a decent run time, it's modulating down, it possibly massive for the duty. Other than a desire to have radiators you burn yourself on, I don't see a real issue.

Do you want a hot house? Is it getting to target room temperature?

Do your add on temp gauges have the sensor in insulation, if not you will read meaningless numbers. To get them to read close to correct, you need thermal paste, aluminium tape and covered in insulation.

So really confused - what is the issue with that? Is your house warm enough ?

Give it a good clean, it could be the plumber never cleaned the flux off. Bit of soapy water and abrasive pad. Dry it off. Then leave for a few days, with the joint wrapped a kitchen paper towel or loo roll around the joint and inspect, it will trap any water and stay wet for ages, rather than just evaporating off. If it's dray and stays dry for a couple of days it was flux. If wet the joint is leaking.

They can't do it, they can only use the information stored under your MPAN. You have to go through correct MPAN database to change address. We had to do similar, call your network installer - DNO (ours was SSEN) and they will point you in the correct direction. From what I remember it was quite straightforward.

As mentioned above a flow sensor needs a system clean, and it needs to be air free. It seems to be the norm to install strainers, which pretty rubbish at stopping small stuff being circulated. You said you put cleaner in the system the other day. I would now look to flush that out, give the flow sensor a good clean. Refill, inhibit and biocide the system (biocide if you do cooling or routinely run below 35/40 degs. While you are at add a decent low flow resistance magnetic filter and delete the strainer.

My be worth reading this, not reread it all but may be something of help https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/30786-lg-therma-v-monobloc-ch14-flow-error/

But this mechanism is to protect the boiler, nothing more nothing less. Short cycling is just a quick way to empty your bank balance. You heat the boiler, pipework and a load of energy goes out the flue and maybe you still have a cold house. If you boiler is in that mode, you maybe have way to many zone, badly set up heating system, or another issue, or all the above.

No. Say your inverter trips out at 253V, grid on that day is already at 250V. On the AC side the inverter, it pushes out grid volts, plus a bit, otherwise it cannot break into the grid. If you take all the voltage drops on the AC side the inverter adds volts to make sure it can break into grid, plus it adds the voltage drop. So on a high voltage day your inverter may trip off. It does care what volts it gets on DC side

Run long cables in DC, so they take any voltage drop on that side, (less of an issue for the inverter - doing on the AC side cause high AC voltage and it could result in the inverter tripping. When I did my install PV rated SWA didn't exist, it now does. I ran my cable on the surface - easy to see and less likely to get accidentally damaged. New panels are generally maxing out at nearer 14A. The panels will generate full voltage even in low light, the amps increases with more irradiance. Find a DC voltage drop calculation online, I used I thing 6mm² for about 40m.

So 12 x 285W panels were £700 and had been installed for just under 2 years. Prices have dropped quite a bit

Get some 3x2 timber. Make up some studs either screw to the rear plasterboard from the other side, or screw to metal studs or, bond the timber to plasterboard. Then insulate (sound proof) and finally plasterboard the shower side as normal screwed to timber studs.

The panels I am installing are new. Around £65 each including VAT.

I was in a meeting once (15 years ago) and a guy quoted from Wikipedia - the info he provided was very wrong, he got caught out. Was very embarrassed for a long time. It's reference set is the internet, there is a lot of duff information out there. There lots of good stuff also. Trouble is a few iterations of rubbish, is still rubbish. But if you have a a decent grasp of the subject, you can mark the work spat out, and either ask it to try again or accept it. If you are asking questions about a subject you know nothing about, you've no hope or very lucky.

Definitely in all directions fall away from house, not falling towards house anywhere. What is the wall? Someone elses house or a boundary wall Plank direction is personal choice, but will affect sub structure design If you are using composit boards you will be at 300-400mm centres on the sub structure. I used flat plates 12mm thick and about 200mm wide galvanised steel, sandwiched between timber and then post created in place. The structure needs to be robust, mine was on a new build and designed by structural engineer, so most the wood is 10x2, light duty stuff is 6x2. The perimeter is doubled up 10x2. I

I am similar. Don't really trust it that much, without plenty of interrogation. Asking various questions posed in different ways. Often ask "are you sure" sometimes get the answer yes other times an apology. Generally use it to get information, I could find myself, but it does it quickly, but sometimes on a total tangent.

Well 2 and bit years later the whole array is getting modified. Will keep existing inverter and cables, but installing 12x 445Wp modules, in 2x arrays. The will be mounted on the existing frame, with some steel work being modified. Mainly want to increase shoulder seasons and winter production, and accept some summer output clipping. Got AI to calculate likely clipping losses based on 15p import and export rate and it estimates between £10 and £15 losses each year, all occuring mid summer around midday. So if anyone is looking for 12x 285Wp panels they are for sale.

Think actually building a house and cars don't mix, I put my cars on hold while building, too much head space getting used by doing the house If have curtains automation sorted what happens if the automation system falls over or have a power cut, can you actually open the curtains?

You here plenty of stories - suspect it's the energy company issue rather than anything else. The smart meter comes out the box with E7 already programmed. Then it's a matter of the energy company harvesting the correct data either the overall energy delivery (single rate) or day and night (dual rate). I had no issue with a dumb (no communication) smart meter in either flat or dual rate. When it became smart via a 4G connection, had no issues with E7 or current Cosy tariff. But the issue maybe how the house is wired, which could be a dogs diner, not addressed by the smart meter installer - someone else's job.

I would get a smart meter, you may need to press them for a 4G version. Believe they run on Vodafone, so check if you actually have a signal. A least with a smart meter you can get a selection of tariffs, no smart meter you are just on standard rate or E7.