JohnMo

Mine are roof mounted and they wanted a design approval from structural engineer - as a new build that was all done at design stage of the building.

Didn't ask me anything about the components, bit of a tick box exercise really. Structural, electric install certificate, G98 certificate. Would avoid, mine had a melt down after about a year. Plenty of cheap new ones on eBay. Various makes and models. 3.6kW inverter can take huge arrays, if you choose well, some will take double that. Most 3.6kW inverters have 2x MPPTs, below that generally have one.

All your numbers are below, just apply them to your house and then balance the the flow and extract.

Why not make your wet radiators in bathroom dual fuel (electric element) or add another/bigger radiator? A thought for later. I would add a couple of degrees leave for 24/48 hrs see affects and go from there. If you have already tried that go further. One thing with ensuites, if bedroom is cool the ensuite will never be hot, as the cool bedroom just pulls the heat from the ensuite.

Posts and postcrete? I did mine with 15mm thick galvanized plates concreted in place. The end near the house sits on a blockwork ledge formed when we did the foundation. Secured with brackets.

I would unscrew the brass bit and see if that frees things up the brass bit may be so far down they have fully closed off flow and pin has nowhere to go?

Just been revising this thread and looking at pay back, we are now at about 2/3 point of payback at just over 2 years, so will be cost neutral in year 3. Looking at the costs PV panels have dropped in price quite a bit. These panels (second hand) including the fuel costs to collect, came in at £740. Same size array in bifacial 500W panels £525. So the whole system would have cost almost exactly £2000.

The red marker move down to. indicating flow had started. They move in response to water flow. The brass thread section with the pin at the centre sets your flow rate. Would assume screwing upwards increases flow. So it may be worth screwing outward (take note of how far you move in number of turns) watch the red marker if that starts to move that may be your issue. If the red marker hasn't moved after a few of turns that isn't the issue. You are most likely looking at air in the loops. To get things moving. Go round each room and turn off the thermostats (or set to lowest setting), once all are off the pump will stop. Now go to one problem room and set the thermostat on. Pump should start. Open bleed on manifold top rail (white radiator bleed thing - top left). It may spray water so slowly open have a towel handy. You may have to open and close a few times. Once the loop starts running, leave for 5 mins. Close the demand at thermostat. Repeat for each problem loop. Report back.

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Trouble the system is easy for MPs. They don't need to read a bill to vote on it, they just do as the whip tells them. Whip can tell if they were doing as they were told by the gate they walk through. Having to read and understand every bill one votes on, becomes a full time job, and that just wouldn't doing young fellow. Now get a grip.

You wouldn't have got to the breaking ground stage in Scotland without the design. You will need full ventilation calculation - so if MVHR all room flow and extract rates. Other ventilation system, trickle vent sizing and fan selection to meet the chosen ventilation scheme and house airtightness target. Heat loss calculation - this in Scotland is provided by an as-deigned SAP report. This also provide hot water usage calculation. But you will most likely have to show how you control usage of hot water, via choice of mixer taps etc. Heat source will need to match heat loss and DHW usage. But as @Nickfromwales says, all this shouldn't guess work for later. If MVHR you need routs for ducts planned, if dMEV know where you need holes in walls, electrics routed too etc. Location of cylinder and UFH manifold(s) and how you get pipes from ASHP to cylinder and UFH manifolds. Read building regs for each section you have been asked for and just follow the rules as set out, put it on paper submit. Then take a good look at the drawings and see what you actually need to do and plan now, you may need to go back to the architect or structural engineer etc to make things work for you.

I have a smart relay on my immersion and have wired so with the switch or the relay can power up the immersion. So if smart relay is off, switch will over ride it. But if smart relay is on the switch has no effect. Either on is on at immersion, both have to be off to switch off immersion. So if a renter switches on manually your smart relay may do nothing until the manual switch is off. Unless you do a switch with a timer so it can only boost for given period of time so it automatically switches it's self off after x minutes.

If they are an issue, I would be more concerned that the wiring is an issue also. Are you sure you didn't miss hear her? What prompted the request?

UFH mixing valve generally always have a percentage of mixing going on. So would act as limiter. You will get a variable flow temp but maybe not linear as the WC curve would suggest. The energy going to house wouldn't change, but as you are producing hotter water from heat pump cop would reduces, so would cost more. Options I can think of (try 4 first zero cost option) 1. Electric radiators in problem rooms? With built-in timer and thermostat. 2. Add actuators to manifold downstairs, sort curve to suit upstairs, operate downstairs on a close hysterisis thermostat (0.1 to 0.2). No mixer just use thermostat to either open or closed all actuators on ground floor. 3. Simple mixer on ground floor operated similar to 2. 4. Not sure if you have tried this - reduced flows to downstairs loops to very low flows, increase flows to upstairs loops to max flow. Increase WC curve to happy temperature in house. Output of ground floor goes down because dT increases, compensated with uplift in flow temp. Upstairs floor out increases due to dT decreasing and increased flow temp.

Did you pay additional money for the two finishes, one colour inside and out, requires no masking up, so is easy. A different finish inside and out costs due to the additional time needed. We had to pay quite a premium to get two different finishes inside and out.

Not sure any, especially an externally controller, would be able do anything graceful, with a boiler and heating system mismatch. They should effectively act, the same way as if you have increased, the radiator a size, they will force heat transfer. Would imagine increased gas consumption and cycling are closely related. Would agree I wonder if you would actually use less gas consumption, by making the boiler run harder. So not opentherm, but run on/off thermostat at around 0.5 to 1.0 hysteresis. Then fiddle with flow temp to get boiler to run the whole call for heat period. But don't run any large setbacks so effectively run 24/7. Then modify your system as needed to work well. Then bring OT back online. Can you or have you range rated the boiler output down?

Mine come from the GRC Aquatech, they are local to us and do the service each year and supply the parts, price was pickup on the parts list of the supplied parts on the invoice.

I just used my thumb, break staples off the strip and just push them in to the insulation. Just as quick

Remove the underlined but, I think you have hit the nail on the head.

Yes And use these each month - stops smells from vent, their other products are quite good also https://www.muck-munchers.co.uk/

That would be my choice. Look at column radiators also. The 4 row ones out our plenty of heat. You can get then in just about every shape. Do your room heat loss and size for lower flow temps.

Take the actuators off on the not working loops, does the flow meter move down (the red lines). Removing actuator opens loop, regardless of call for heat. If this resolves issue you have an issue with electrics. If nothing changes you have an issue with air in the system, get the plumber back to bleed the loops. Takes all the junk off the UFH loop pipes. Look to box in, so they don't get damaged.

A little, or a lot depending on flow rates, if your at 20L/min and below very little, higher rates a bigger and bigger influence - if you have UFH you can do this at the manifold anyway. So wouldn't bother, unless you have a good reason.

The figure has nothing to do with that, it's your ventilation through put. Spreadsheet already assume very airtight build.

Cell B2, will be -3 in England, -5 Scotland. Cell B4 use 6 degs if well insulated Cell B2 is ground floor area only Cell B45 will give you your heat loss