JohnMo

https://tradewarehouse.co.uk/blogs/metal-guttering/how-to-cut-metal-guttering?srsltid=AfmBOopQ4EZ-p-gajPUNlRl2O4PXaEP0PWWypwK32BUxOrptG8Qb4rMp

Trouble the system is easy for MPs. They don't need to read a bill to vote on it, they just do as the whip tells them. Whip can tell if they were doing as they were told by the gate they walk through. Having to read and understand every bill one votes on, becomes a full time job, and that just wouldn't doing young fellow. Now get a grip.

You wouldn't have got to the breaking ground stage in Scotland without the design. You will need full ventilation calculation - so if MVHR all room flow and extract rates. Other ventilation system, trickle vent sizing and fan selection to meet the chosen ventilation scheme and house airtightness target. Heat loss calculation - this in Scotland is provided by an as-deigned SAP report. This also provide hot water usage calculation. But you will most likely have to show how you control usage of hot water, via choice of mixer taps etc. Heat source will need to match heat loss and DHW usage. But as @Nickfromwales says, all this shouldn't guess work for later. If MVHR you need routs for ducts planned, if dMEV know where you need holes in walls, electrics routed too etc. Location of cylinder and UFH manifold(s) and how you get pipes from ASHP to cylinder and UFH manifolds. Read building regs for each section you have been asked for and just follow the rules as set out, put it on paper submit. Then take a good look at the drawings and see what you actually need to do and plan now, you may need to go back to the architect or structural engineer etc to make things work for you.

I have a smart relay on my immersion and have wired so with the switch or the relay can power up the immersion. So if smart relay is off, switch will over ride it. But if smart relay is on the switch has no effect. Either on is on at immersion, both have to be off to switch off immersion. So if a renter switches on manually your smart relay may do nothing until the manual switch is off. Unless you do a switch with a timer so it can only boost for given period of time so it automatically switches it's self off after x minutes.

If they are an issue, I would be more concerned that the wiring is an issue also. Are you sure you didn't miss hear her? What prompted the request?

UFH mixing valve generally always have a percentage of mixing going on. So would act as limiter. You will get a variable flow temp but maybe not linear as the WC curve would suggest. The energy going to house wouldn't change, but as you are producing hotter water from heat pump cop would reduces, so would cost more. Options I can think of (try 4 first zero cost option) 1. Electric radiators in problem rooms? With built-in timer and thermostat. 2. Add actuators to manifold downstairs, sort curve to suit upstairs, operate downstairs on a close hysterisis thermostat (0.1 to 0.2). No mixer just use thermostat to either open or closed all actuators on ground floor. 3. Simple mixer on ground floor operated similar to 2. 4. Not sure if you have tried this - reduced flows to downstairs loops to very low flows, increase flows to upstairs loops to max flow. Increase WC curve to happy temperature in house. Output of ground floor goes down because dT increases, compensated with uplift in flow temp. Upstairs floor out increases due to dT decreasing and increased flow temp.

Did you pay additional money for the two finishes, one colour inside and out, requires no masking up, so is easy. A different finish inside and out costs due to the additional time needed. We had to pay quite a premium to get two different finishes inside and out.

Not sure any, especially an externally controller, would be able do anything graceful, with a boiler and heating system mismatch. They should effectively act, the same way as if you have increased, the radiator a size, they will force heat transfer. Would imagine increased gas consumption and cycling are closely related. Would agree I wonder if you would actually use less gas consumption, by making the boiler run harder. So not opentherm, but run on/off thermostat at around 0.5 to 1.0 hysteresis. Then fiddle with flow temp to get boiler to run the whole call for heat period. But don't run any large setbacks so effectively run 24/7. Then modify your system as needed to work well. Then bring OT back online. Can you or have you range rated the boiler output down?

Mine come from the GRC Aquatech, they are local to us and do the service each year and supply the parts, price was pickup on the parts list of the supplied parts on the invoice.

I just used my thumb, break staples off the strip and just push them in to the insulation. Just as quick

Remove the underlined but, I think you have hit the nail on the head.

Yes And use these each month - stops smells from vent, their other products are quite good also https://www.muck-munchers.co.uk/

That would be my choice. Look at column radiators also. The 4 row ones out our plenty of heat. You can get then in just about every shape. Do your room heat loss and size for lower flow temps.

Take the actuators off on the not working loops, does the flow meter move down (the red lines). Removing actuator opens loop, regardless of call for heat. If this resolves issue you have an issue with electrics. If nothing changes you have an issue with air in the system, get the plumber back to bleed the loops. Takes all the junk off the UFH loop pipes. Look to box in, so they don't get damaged.

A little, or a lot depending on flow rates, if your at 20L/min and below very little, higher rates a bigger and bigger influence - if you have UFH you can do this at the manifold anyway. So wouldn't bother, unless you have a good reason.

The figure has nothing to do with that, it's your ventilation through put. Spreadsheet already assume very airtight build.

Cell B2, will be -3 in England, -5 Scotland. Cell B4 use 6 degs if well insulated Cell B2 is ground floor area only Cell B45 will give you your heat loss

PV and battery are separate to heating requirements, so not really relevant to question asked. There are some requirements for an ASHP often over looked and that is defrost - UK is pretty bad for it depending on exact location. Inland being better than coastal or near a big body of water. So generally it wise to oversize for the typical -3 design in the UK. Second is DHW generation, a small heat pump at design temp can take a while to heat a big cylinder as in a couple of hours. So you are better to look at a 6kW heat pump but make sure it has good modulation so it runs well for long periods of times for best CoP. The heat calculation, needs your ventilation system air changes per hour I would assume 0.5 to 0.3, and with MVHR efficiency circa 85 to 90%. You need to find average temp in your area for the monthly heating needs. You need window and door sizes, general roof, floor and wall areas and thats about it, with U values

Aren't both likely to change at the same, everyone with an EV charging at the same time, lo tariff becomes a high tariff period. You can't use one as justification and not the other etc. Not sure you would charge your house battery to then dump into your car. Then 5 mins later end up with a flat home battery. Some require it for anything other than basic functions. Some require for warranty, if control is from china who knows what will happen.

So how many radiators do you have

Or more complete cut and paste is Kilogram Definition: A kilogram (symbol: kg) is the base unit of mass in the International System of Units (SI). It is currently defined based on the fixed numerical value of the Planck constant, h, which is equal to 6.62607015 × 10-34 in the units of J·s, or kg·m2·s-1. The meter and the second are defined in terms of c, the speed of light, and cesium frequency, ΔνCs. Even though the definition of the kilogram was changed in 2019, the actual size of the unit remained the same. The changes were intended to improve the definitions of SI base units, not to actually change how the units are used throughout the world. History/origin: The name kilogram was derived from the French "kilogramme," which in turn came from adding Greek terminology meaning "a thousand," before the Late Latin term "gramma" meaning "a small weight." Unlike the other SI base units, the kilogram is the only SI base unit with an SI prefix. SI is a system based on the meter-kilogram-second system of units rather than a centimeter-gram-second system. This is at least in part due to the inconsistencies and lack of coherence that can arise through use of centimeter-gram-second systems, such as those between the systems of electrostatic and electromagnetic units. The kilogram was originally defined as the mass of one liter of water at its freezing point in 1794, but was eventually re-defined, since measuring the mass of a volume of water was imprecise and cumbersome. A new definition of the kilogram was introduced in 2019 based on Planck's constant and changes to the definition of the second. Prior to the current definition, the kilogram was defined as being equal to the mass of a physical prototype, a cylinder made of a platinum-iridium alloy, which was an imperfect measure. This is evidenced by the fact that the mass of the original prototype for the kilogram now weighs 50 micrograms less than other copies of the standard kilogram. Current use: As a base unit of SI, the kilogram is used globally in nearly all fields and applications, with the exception of countries like the United States, where the kilogram is used in many areas, at least to some extent (such as science, industry, government, and the military) but typically not in everyday applications. Pound Definition: A pound (symbol: lb) is a unit of mass used in the imperial and US customary systems of measurement. The international avoirdupois pound (the common pound used today) is defined as exactly 0.45359237 kilograms. The avoirdupois pound is equivalent to 16 avoirdupois ounces. History/origin: The pound descended from the Roman libra, and numerous different definitions of the pound were used throughout history prior to the international avoirdupois pound that is widely used today. The avoirdupois system is a system that was commonly used in the 13th century. It was updated to its current form in 1959. It is a system that was based on a physical standardized pound that used a prototype weight. This prototype weight could be divided into 16 ounces, a number that had three even divisors (8, 4, 2). This convenience could be the reason that the system was more popular than other systems of the time that used 10, 12, or 15 subdivisions. Current use: The pound as a unit of weight is widely used in the United States, often for measuring body weight. Many versions of the pound existed in the past in the United Kingdom (UK), and although the UK largely uses the International System of Units, pounds are still used within certain contexts, such as labelling of packaged foods (by law the metric values must also be displayed). The UK also often uses both pounds and stones when describing body weight, where a stone is comprised of 14 pounds. Kilogram to Pound Conversion Table Kilogram [kg] Pound [lbs] 1 kg is equal to 2.2046226218 lbs

Strange until I joined the RAF (1986) I did the same, now its always metric so kg, and metres. Yes and 2.2 lb to the kg

Not quite a few decimal places out it's 81,000 kWh. So if you if you pay have the cost to charge as normal rate 14p.v 28p you save around around £11k in electric less in the installed cost of battery and inverter. Just reading the current blurb on GivEnergy All In One (AIO) battery system, it is rated for an "unlimited" number of cycles within its 12-year warranty period, guaranteeing it will retain at least 70% of its original capacity. So on Cosy (3x charges per day) that could be a saving of around £20k less install cost. Install cost is higher but reward is higher again.

Why - you are laying for the system to be installed so it will come with MCS certificate, which means you get paid for export, so why not sell the electric. DHW heating is fine if you don't get paid for export. Gas or heat pump DHW heating is around 6p per kWh, export around 15p on the correct tariff. I would look at a system that doesn't demand internet connection - GivEnergy does require internet, others no idea.

Why - I'm over 60 and was taught metric at school, it's been taught in school since about 1965! Only time since leaving I used imperial was working with equipment designed in 1940s. And ordering wood in imperial cross section (which it isn't actually that size - 147mm is actually 5.79" not 6") and metric length - but building industry is backwards in its thinking anyway, so cannot expect much different really.