JohnMo

Run 15mm to central location and install a manifold. Then from there run a 15mm pipe to each wet room and branch the pipe there. At you furthest or most used wet room add a secondary return loop. The return pipe will go directly back to cylinder. The above will pre heat manifold and supply hot water to furthest or most use taps, while also allowing a shorter run to all other rooms. Above will easily supply a couple of showers.

Just fell over this thread from the past - how did you install work out for DHW. Is a simple PHE and pump which runs until DHW is satisfied?

It is very likely to slump as it's not rigid enough. Use acoustic mineral or glass wool instead. Or Frametherm or similar.

Have you tried all the providers - we have only Vodafone works, everything else is a big fat zero. Worth asking anyone that comes to house, what provider they with and what the phone signal is like. If you can get 4G 99% of the time its a great signal

But aren't all radiators forming a high points, unless radiators tails come down from the ceiling? Any changes in elevation upwards that then comes down again is an air trap, so needs a bleed point.

Our door hinge has to be cranked (bent) to adjust, using a tool that slips over the hinge. Suspect it's a tool that can be picked up for pennies on Amazon etc.

Yes - flow in at top flow at bottom. The imaged attached previously was a completely different set up. You are better to get a different manifold which includes a bottle trap in each manifold - something like this

The marked up drawing makes sense. There is no mixing valve in the normal sense. The manifold allows hot water from boiler to mix with return water and the proportion is determined by taking a reference temperature from the upper manifold. The lock shield valve on the upper manifold acts as a gagging point to ensure flow goes through the loops and not just all take the easy route to the boiler. You need the over temp protection as if the inlet temperature regulator fails you send boiler water temp to the floor. Allowing boiler flow to top manifold, doesn't give any mixing down of boiler flow temperature, so wouldn't work.

Just looked at build spec and it would appear nearly every house in Scotland is also of non standard construction. It's a timber frame kit, so really nothing non standard about it. So can be repaired using standard building materials. The only real difference is it's factory built, instead of site built. All pretty standard stuff for a Joiner to repair should there be a need. Their typical wall build is external Render Thermal insulation OSB or gypsum fibre board Timber studs/Thermal insulation OSB or gypsum fibre board Polyethylene vapour check Plasterboard Internal walls Stud wall

Only if the bleed valves are at any high points

Hot water tank? Is this a buffer or volumiser? I positioned in the return to heat pump. The way it works close the lower valve with circulation pump off. You then open the other valves, inject into one port and water ejected from the other. You add the correct amount of glycol and close the valves and open the bottom one again. Circulate system. But as mentioned, as would do everything I could to eliminate the use of antifreeze.

Most likely not a coincidence. With a missing radiator not sure how you rebalanced the system, depending on it's plumbed, suspect you have simply cut the flow to the radiator that doesn't work.

Corner tapes this is what our taper insisted on for our vaulted ceiling (nearly all of the rooms). Myself and grandson did the hall and it was great to use. https://www.belmoretools.co.uk/levelline-drywall-corner-tape-2-75-in-x-100-ft-roll.html

Underlay will kill UFH performance, it's normal not to float a floor on UFH, it's more normal to bond the floor down.

Metal reinforced tapes are good, nice true and straight corners, and difficult to damage.

Something like this may be the answer Amazon_HXIN.pdf

A thermostat connected to nothing is good for that. But if you go aircon but well. A very good one goes unnoticed others can be drafty and blow and bug the you. They can also make the air really dry, good ones will manage that. You can have both the ASHP just switched mode. Depends on installers take on things, some will be fine others not, depends on their experience really. Just don't speak Aircon while doing the grant stuff.

Only two off us, but we never shower at the same time almost 12 hrs apart generally so ample time to reheat if needed. I would look at water and energy conversation first. Waste water heat recovery for showers and aerated shower heads. Bring down hot water quantities needed. Big two cylinders gives more flexibility. Heating to a high temperature also gives more capacity. Do not do S or Y plan plumbing, do X or W and have priority hot water. This will allow boiler to run balls out for DHW and low and slow for central heating. Not even hotels have unlimited hot water. So be careful for what you actually ask for.

I monitor mine via certified heat meter and electricity meter. Heat pump has started twice today for central heating and actually ran at average CoP of 5.5. that is real world. Average for DHW cylinder heating today is 3.8. So for a heating today's energy cost with zero pv input is 1.8p per kWh in the real world. They don't need to nor do boilers. Blasting heat at a house does two things, it heats the whole airspace and buildings fabric quickly, it also has to make up the heat lost, while the heating has been off. It's also not that comfortable while it's doing it. You generally have to have a warmer space to compensate. Long on periods stabilise the building fabric so you can drip feed energy into the space. Your house can be a few degrees cooler and very comfortable. Overall running energy input on a like for like basis in kWh is similar. Gas boilers get an efficiency improvement of around 10 to 15% so a gas boiler is actually cheaper to run when run in a similar manner to heat pump. Although my heating is on 24/7, it only actually runs when it needs to. Drip feeding heat into the floor to make up for lost energy. So in the last 24 hrs has only fired up 4 times running for about 4 hrs in total. So maybe less hours running than you. So in real world they do work.

Look at Greenwood CV2 or CV3. Totally silent in normal operation, have a smart humidity control, so looks for a rising humidity over time not a general rise because rainy. Just needs power cable, no switched power needed. Electrically take a couple Watts to run them, so pennies a year.

Looking at you image I suspect the flow meter is stuck, after being switch off for the summer - are the rooms getting to temperature? If so I wouldn't fiddle, does it matter if it's displaying the correct number or nor? Believe you use the brass square part to adjust flow, but once commissioned shouldn't be touched again.

Most of that can be deleted with a simple cascade MVHR system, you will still extract points in wet rooms, but not in dry rooms. But a well thought out dMEV system can be nearly as good, no noisy fans that come every time you switch on light. Add some humidity activated trickle vents, you have a system that looks looks after itself, while minimising ventilation losses etc. Sounds like an invite to black mould and unhealthy living to me. Airtightness is great, but you you still need controlled ventilation

Or don't bother with the grant a do what ever you want. Was looking at Hisense ASHPs the other day, great modulation, Hitachi compressor and other parts £2k.

I used a filling flushing point and pumped it in with a hand pump. But no longer use glycol, just inhibited water. Glycol is rubbish and generally not needed.

Have you tried power off and on again?