crispy_wafer

I guess it depends on the damage, repair could be just tape, or cutting a patch of membrane to cover the damage and tape up the edges. Breather membrane tape is available, cant advise of which would be best for you though.

https://www.drainagesuperstore.co.uk/product/accesso-ic110-450mm-single-piece-adoptable-inspection-chamber-1500mm-invert.html?ppc_keyword=&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22291034282&gclid=CjwKCAjwi4PHBhA-EiwAnjTHuYGbRQ2uc_O_SIFjCE4ec5OjeIdvk3QPTyu2zdoLGYQ9ZLhafKKjghoCK5gQAvD_BwE

Oh and take pictures/measurements of where the runs are in case you need to do any work on the floor nearby

If you are unable to fit the cabling now, fetch some 32mm ducting from somewhere and lay that, feed a drawstring so you can pull through the cable later. Lay it as straight as you can.

Oh yes, I like this, genius.

as above, we did, 600mm above an open internal drainage board drain that runs through the land. Having multiple floors for refuge in case of that 1 in a 100 year event also helps.

You've pretty much just described my install... 1ph to crappy bungalow, 1ph to new build, 1ph unused, but it will be a big garage with living space above. I guess it comes down to metering and the properties are they staying in your name, or are you looking to sell one?

I bought a few of them steel rectangular, slot together jobbies of FB marketplace, not suitable in anyway shape or form for trade use, but for DIY use and hedge trimming up to about 2.5m platform height they are perfick! £200 or thereabouts Easily create a platform long enough for a 3.9m board to span. If you want to go any higher than that forget it get a proper one like those above!

Polypipe, hit your local civils place, often worth their weight in gold through experience and advice.

did you try or think about what @Nickfromwales suggested eps at the bottom of the cavity, xps board against the outer leaf to insulate against the cold bridges then fill with concrete.

use a 135 junction and shove a 45 in the end of it.

I did similar, kept accessible, because I’ve put stop taps on the two feeds off the main. Saves me having to go out to the road to kill the individual tails. I’m in the process(2 years, because not important just yet) of building up a chamber, it’ll be something along the lines of 700*1250 ish so I can get into it should I ever need to. There’s probably a better way, maybe theres a manifold for mdpe which could simplify matters, haven’t looked tbh.

Just be mindful, I wasnt... With trusses you may get cross bracing included! makes insulating a pain in bottom as the bracing can get in the way, it can be done though, just takes a little more time.

I’d say that he’s right to concerned that screw/nail holes can be affected by rain/moisture, no different to the board joints really, so put a small dob of d4 over the nail/screw will help. A floor scraper when watertight to lift the foam.

AICO, should cover most, if not all needs

I cant add too much, but in the first instance i'd ask, does the HP have a pump built in, if it does, then does it have enough grunt to supply the needed litres per minute for the install.

Personally, under the slab I wouldnt run copper, i guess many have done in the past though, Me, I'd run a 110mm soil pipe and push 25mm mdpe through it, rest bend where it comes back out of the slab. No pipe joints where you cant get to them.

Nice idea, yeah I'd run it past your SE for peace of mind, or even @Gus Potter might lend an ear for his thoughts. I cant help too much, because I've gone with central spine, however when time comes for manufacture, assuming you don't fabricate it yourself, don't be afraid to look up local fabrication firms and joiners for treads.

downpipe at one end or in the middle of the run?

🤣 appreciate the last couple of posts, I've been eyeing up steel baths too...

Would it be easier to just batten with 3*1 or 4*1, using the lowest spot as your zero point, and shim out the battens at the high spots.

we did Engineering bricks where above external ground level to dpc then facing bricks above dpc, below ground level was heavy concrete blocks.

Wont lie, got two, one had to be swapped 4 times because of stone resin that had set on the underside of the drainage outlet that I wanted to use, I was unwilling to sand/grind it off incase I fubar'd the tray. The company I purchased from were first class in dealing with the issue for me, even though the tray had sat for 6 months or so without me unpacking or installing. This was the first time I'd actually rejected the replacements before they even got off the delivery van. All good in the end though. In terms of the tray, yeah it looks good, don't even notice it now!

Had the same issue - I ended up fitting a Kudos Connect2 tray to get me out of bother.

Ufh downstairs from the ashp, with separate ducted split ac, downstairs and upstairs - ducted AC in bedrooms, wet, or electric towel rads + electric ufh in bathrooms. Flexibility, heat downstairs cooling upstairs, or vice versa, cool in one bedroom warm in another… that sort of thing. How often this’ll be done though who knows.