elite

CT1 or some similar sealant on the outside where the glass meets the rubber? But will only ever be a temporary fix

Not a sparky... I do grey as neutral and black as CPC (both sleeved at both ends to identify) Don't forget to make sure your armour is connected to CPC too and you have continuity - wiska do some nice clamp bars I'd use wagos to connect the cores, but do check they are rated to at least 32 amps (in your case)

Yes I would want an upstand, EPDM should be lapped up the upstand and then flashing applied on top

Perfect - thanks

I'd probably go with a tile backer with SLC - marmox claim 40 tonnes / m2 when tiled, not sure about LVT. They say you can use any thickness board, unless onto floorboards which then has to be minimum of 10mm. So thickness really depends on how much insulation you want vs how much height you want to lose You probably only need 3mm SLC, unless the floor isn't level A much more painful option would be to dig down and get a decent amount in the slab

I've had an EV charger installed at the renovation, I am currently with Octopus so was looking to swtich to Octopus go, however they are not offering it as the smart meter is not communicating with them (I don't think it has ever successfully sent or received data) - the location has terrible mobile connectivity I understand they have to try and make it work, but I was wondering if anyone has had experience with this? Seems a bit rubbish if I can't benefit from smart tarrifs just becase the DCC network coverage is crap

Yes, on my roof I multitooled the fascia flush with the OSB - my buld up is on your other thread: It is usually good to keep related posts on the same thread, so people can see the progress and stops you having to repeat the same info. Hope the roof goes well

At work we target 24 degrees for our onprem server room which has been calculated (not by me), to be the most efficient temp to run at, so I wouldn't be too concerned at 27 to 30 in a home environment, though not being able to shut the door would be an issue for me. What temp does it get to with the door shut? Is there any scope to increase extract or even partition between boiler etc and tech? I think 40 degrees is the max ambient temp for the UDM Pro, I expect the internal temp to maybe hit 60-70 deg under load

I'm not sure what you are proposing here - can you post a diagram / photo? I have just replaced a roof on an outbuilding (no furring), this was my buildup: Joist -> OSB -> VCL -> Insuation -> OSB -> Rubber Fascias were fitted after the deck

Very similar to my first house, in our case we were planning to go into the loft with a rear dorma, which might be trickier for you with the orientation of the stairs. In the end we decided it wasn't worth it and ended up moving. I'd probably want to retain the full bathroom on the first floor, so would add the third bedroom on the ground floor, but this may not be practical if we are talking a young family.

I'd check both their deeds and yours. What are their access rights, can these be maintained while work is carried out? As Roudtuit says I'd agree it is reasonable, give notice and do it. It sounds like it will be complete quickly and they are unlikely to want a dispute with a neighbour if they are in the process of selling

Sketchup Make 2017 was the last free non-web version, it is no longer available from the developer, but I beleive it can still be found on CNET and the internet archive (I'd check the file hashes to make sure it hasn't been tampered with). Drop me a PM if you need it and can't find it

No knowledge of them, but data are you wanting to extract? Using CT clamps and something like https://openenergymonitor.org/ might be a quicker / easier route?

30Mbps should be good enough for video calls, but of course depends on how you're connecting and building construction etc. I know I would prefer a wired connection. RE openreach, make sure they understand that it isn't a new site and there is presumably a pair on the pole that served the bungalow (unless someone else is now using them of course). Have you checked altnets? Giganet and CityFibre might be in your neck of the woods

Can you do warm roof but take back the house roof to give you the height? You need careful detail around the transition to ensure ventilation into the cold (I assume) house roof. An wider external pic might help others give more suggestions

Interesting, unusal for a switch to cause such a fault, but I hadn't realised it was an attic switch which I guess is more "exposed"

You need to keep splitting the circuit until you narrow down the cable with the fault. This will be a lot easier with a tester that can do insulation resistance testing. You can pick up used testers on ebay, but probably cheaper / easier to get a spark in

How is the pointing? The flashing doesn't look the tidiest. I had similar but was able to remove the stack, and the roofer said it was so bad he didn't need tools to remove the bricks 😬 Has a good roofer had a look at it?

Is the floor "bouncy" or is it just squeeking boards? If just the later, as @joe90 says, just get some scews driven in to pull everything tight

https://www.ironmongerydirect.co.uk/product/altro-disabled-bathroom-turn-&-release-suit-8mm-spindle-satin-stainless-steel-234592 ?

How many cores? How is it installed? This is a useful calculator: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html

Not a plumber Is there air in the system? Does the pump have somewhere to pump from? e.g. are radiator valves / TRVs open?

I was going to say I'd want the control room bigger if it was for recording. My knowledge is more on a recording build, but essentially bass will be your biggest issue, so lots of mass and decouple everything where possible. You will also want to kill reflections etc especially if you're loud, so soft furnishings will help a lot with this, if you're not able to build anything in at construction. Also bass traps in unused corners (wall ceiling junction is a corner too 😉 )

As above, you need mass your best option is probably MLV PB sandwich Is the space primarily for rehearsals or recording?

Pay particular attention to detailing on doors / windows, these will be your biggest problem. Is that a french door to the left of control room? It will probably be more leaky than others. Consider making stud walls double & decoupled Check your room ratios aren't going to cause acoustic issues I suspect you'll want the room pretty "dead" at that sort of size, so incorporate absorbers / bass traps in the design early on A great resource: https://johnlsayersarchive.com/ Keep us updated on your progress