Dee

This isvthe bit that I've made the access panel over, just where the pipes run. Just no atall confident about push fit!

Well, I'll glue the vinyl on the access panel separately with ring pulls to lift it off. I made an boob with the pipes....plumber ran the plastic with copper tails and disappeared, never to return!...Holding me up I got the plumbers who were fitting a new boiler to connect into the system so all pipes are live but capped off, So I can't really test the joints as such. As the pipes have been under pressure for about 6 weeks now with no sign of leaks ( all push fit joints) is that a vigorous test enough? Had a nightmare with plumbers!

Hello everyone, I'm creating a bathroom from scratch and doing much of the work myself. I've had all the pipes and wastes installed and now I'm at the point of screwing the ply floor down. Problem is I'm nervous about access to pipes incase of leaks. Fortunately all the pipes/joints run between 2 joists so I've built an access panel in the ply for that but I just can't commit to screwing it all down!! I plan to use vinyl on top, glued down. Any suggestions or reassurance??

I'll get back to you...I appreciate the input

All the rads are column type with the 2 kitchen ones tall vertical. The pump on the cylinder has 3 settings and it's always been set on 3

One rad just refuses to heat up. It did as my previous post but a few days later its gone Cold. I can live with that as I've realised I have taken up way to much of your time chaps. Now I have a great deal of advice snd information thanks to your invaluable input.

So you're not far off. As you've got some rads without much drop, I would be throttling back the flow a smidgen With respect to your pump, do you know what setting this is on? Throttle back? Is that close or open? (Sorry if that's a daft question) How do I check the pump speed?

So, flow is the red pipe? Rtn is the blue ??

Cold pipe is 44⁰ hot pipe is 58⁰

The hot pipe from the boiler is reading 56⁰.....how do I get it below 50⁰?

Are they the pipes with red and blue tape? Is that black thing the pump?

Aha! I have 18 hot rads!! My concern is though the temp diff varies massively from 1⁰ on rad #11 upto 23⁰ on rad# 9! On 14 rads the TRV pipe is hotter than the LSV side and the LSV on rads furthest away from the boiler are open no more than 1/8th if that. In fact I would state that all the LSV are open open no more than 1/8th. Does any of this matter? Hope you all had a peaceful Xmas....Dee

I most certainly will! Thanks again

Thanks for the reassurance. Over the summer the system was off completely for months, when turned on 6/18 were not heating atall so I did as you mentioned turned hot rads off and this did push the water to all the cold rads and they all heated perfectly ( also confirmed all valves were working). Over time by more luck than judgment 4 have now joined the hot team leaving two behind. I've been stressing over the 12⁰ difference and now I understand this temp isn't appropriate for the baxi I have I can start again! Does it have to be 20⁰ exactly for every rad or within a range of 20⁰. There's so much emphasis on 12⁰ on all the threads I have read? I also have 3 vertical column rads is this a complication? (They're all column rads) Thanks again

This is driving me nuts! I'm obsessing about the order the rads heat up as I figure if I get that wrong then balancing will never work...is this a correct assumption? I've managed to fleetingly get some heat to one if the cold rads but only just....progress? I recall when I balanced the system years ago that I took a temperature reading on the flow and return on the boiler? Why and do I need to do this again?

Excellent advice! Thankyou so much.....weekend project, living the dream

Hi, how do I do that?

My biggest flaw!! However, I have balanced the system in the past from scratch and it worked perfectly but for unkonwn readons its decided not to. its a big house, and as the flow branches off in all directions I find it tricky to establish the order by which the rads heat up...is this critical? Boiler is a very recent Baxi 400 with a heatrea sadia tank. Photo attached of the multimeter I'm using. Nearly all of the LSV are literally barely cracked open atall and the rads are sooooo hot, is this normal?? Your process is invaluable and the first few steps I've never considered, so I will start there... (most Googles don't even mention those steps). We had the system put in 18 yrs ago so I can't recall much about the spec. Thankyou so much!

Hi, sorry if this stream is repeated but I'm very confused. I have a sealed system. 18 column rads. I know all the valves work and there is no air in the system. I've done temp check with a multimeter to get baseline for each rad on flow and rtn and the numbers are all over the place! 2 ground floor rads are cold and don't heat up atall. ( study and kitchen 2) The rads before and after the study read, Before LS 47. TRV 59 After. LS 33 60 Kitchen 2 the pipes drop down from Bed 4 above and that reads; LS 58 TRV 50 I need clarity please; Which pipe should be hottest TRV or LSV? On 15 rads the TRV pipe is hottest. The other 3 the LS side is hotter. The temp range varies from 5⁰c to 27⁰c....which is alot! Does anyone see a pattern. Thanks and Sorry!

Actually in the end it was only 2/7 that were covered in insulation so I bought two metal box things as that's what my late husband used...Good enough. Thanks again everyone

Hi I'm worried about how to insulate around wires, downlights, junction boxes ect. I'm creating a bathroom above the kitchen so there's ceiling joists, void then floor joists of the bathroom. Do I leave an air gap around downlights? Should I not put any insulation down atall? What the fire risk around junction boxes and airflow? Overheating ect? I was going to use Knauf on the ceiling and kinsman on the bathroom floor.....should I leave the void clear?? Thanks so much

Yeh, I have properly balanced the whole system a few years ago, down to using a multimeter to get the temp to 12⁰ across the pipes....took 2 days. I was hoping for a quick fix this time! What I don't understand is that on all the hot rads the LS is literally barely open, not even 1/4 turn, even those the farthest away from the boiler.

So, giving the bathroom ...and you guys, a rest while I figure out the heating system which seems to have developed a mind if it's own! I have 18 rads, of which 6 decided not to heat up atall. So I turned off fully the 12 hot rads, and all 6 cold rads heated up . One by one I turned the 12 back on and after a few days all rads were still lovely and hot....until 2 gradually went cold and despite my best efforts have remained so. I have tweeked and twiddle the LS valves on those pipes that I believe to be effecting the 2 duds but no improvement. All rads bled, recently drained system when boiler was replaced...totally foxed!

Sorry, I don't understand? I had nothing to fix to below the bottom of the joist? Please expand what I should have done? Appreciate the advice

Oh, it is glued too! Forgot to mention that