Dee

HELP! The corner where the shower will sit isn't square! Which wall should I square it too??? It's out by 20mm bottom right! Average it out or square to the back wall? I plan on having just a door, so if you look at the sketch I did for the pipe run then the l will build the left wall off the back wall, (the back wall is stud work) and the right wall is brick. As there is a void under the floor of about 20" should I put insulation down? The kitchen is below. How tight should I screw the trap? baring in mind I don't have the same grip strength as a man? is it possible to over tighten the trap ect and knacker it? Would you recommend PTFE tape on every thread joint as belt and brace?? Once the floor is down that's it!!

The tray has a solid base. 800 x 800 so not massive. I've just levelled the joists with noggins and now the ply is absolutely level, no rocking or anything.! Do I now screw down the ply, add tile adhesive, set tray down and then put trap in? I've got a McAlpine trap so should I use silicon on both rubber seals A,B and C or none?? The small pipe that comes out of the trap, is it just hand tightened onto the trap or some sort of glue used as once it's in its very tight accsess so I have one shot at it. Thankyou for being so patient and helpful everyone!

My next question....sorry.....is the waste pipe run. The shower pipe will have to run parallel to the joist and T into the sink. Is this OK? How much fall is dictated by the depth of the joists for both sink and shower to get under. I estimate total run from shower to sink to loo appropriately 4m. The sink will run as per my sketch to the loo. Should I only use 90⁰ bends or can I use 45⁰ ? (The dotted line is an alternative route). Thanks for your patience

Thank chaps. I'll give with tile adhesive.

Hi, I've watched a number of YouTube threads about this question and one plumber spent 20 minutes extolling the virtues of sand and cement rather than adhesive. Some say one others say the other hence my confusion....or maybe its confidence. I have to get this right, I can't pay for a pro to do this so I'm reaching out to understand better before I try to do this myself. I'll re read the thread. Thanks for your input. It's a great forum

I've read conflicting advice on bedding a tray onto cement or tile adhesive.....which should I trust. Its going onto 18mm ply, onto old joists Thanks

Under. There is a void of 7"

Could I run the waste pipe parallel to the joist with fall and 'T' it into the sink waste to get under the joist?...see sketch There is a void of about 7" ( bathroom joists/void/ceiling beams) which would allow for plenty of wiggle room and fall.

I looked at those but the joists would still interfere! Bloody typical!

I could but that eould make it very tricky to reach if needed. I did consider that but not really an option I'm afraid

Sorry, racing ahead in all directions. First hurdle reached....dry laid ply, tray and waste and waste sits slap bang behind a joist ( I've posted a picture) would have to notch out more the 50% of 5" joist to get it through and I know that's way too much. Can't bring tray forward either as not enough space. Don't want to put it on legs either. Any ideas?!

Great, thanks! Im using shower wall panels (so not tiling) therefore does the backerboard sit ontop of the tray? And do I need backer if I'm using panels?

Also shoukd the ply be cut slightly bigger than the 800 x 800 tray or the exact size?

Others have said silicone adhesive is good enough

Hi The shower tray I was about to install has a flat base to it, no indents ect, just totally flat....is this a problem as most I've looked at seem to have a patterned bottom? It appears to not be level either, it rocks from one corner to the diagonal corner. Should I send it back?

Which is the best in your expert opinion? Which for bang for buck? And what do you call a exposed valve for a a rainfall head and handheld spray combined? I'm very confused

Perfect, thanks

Some poo pipes coming off the concealed cisterns are straight down yet others go off at 45 degrees....why? Can I twist the 45 to 90 degrees or are they fixed?

Great. Thanks for your input. Don't shoot me down but I'm pondering using composite woodgrain decking?!

Chipboard????

Hi Creating an ensuite. What subfloor do I put direct onto floor joists? No underfloor heating Marine ply is very expensive and as usual I'm on a budget! But must do it right!

I've already had the whole house tested so this is a simple replacement. It's not a biggie to drop the fan to put a chocbox in.

Yes, i reslise in hindsight a chocbox would have been belt and braces. There is plenty of eire up there so even if the fan fell out the connection eoukd survive. I did wrap plenty of insulation tape around it. Did I do wrong?

Unfortunately it wasn't really a box. It was a cover but no back to it.

So this is how I wired the new fan in. Should I wrap insulation tape around it too? Turned power on and it all works!!!