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I think I've settled on using Dibond aluminium composite for the plinth on our house and would rather stick it to the EPS than mechanically fix it. Are there any products I should look at or avoid?

Yep, cheers.

I want to fit a shower screen into a wet-room area but want it to look as minimal as possible. Reading around, it seems that you need to fix the screen to the wall and floor using either clamps or u-channel and optionally a support bar to the wall or ceiling. I think I prefer the look of the channel but they always seem to be hard to get really clean. Is it possible to just fix/seal the screen directly to the wall and floor? On the face of it I don't see why not, but I've read so many warnings about not resting the screen on a hard surface

Interesting - we had no instructions so maybe that was the problem! I still think it's too thin though. We have a LOT of aluminium on the house and the dry verge is by far the weakest link

May I ask how much you're paying for the aluminium? I need to sort out something asap and was going to use uPVC, partly as it's easier to trim if needed, but we have a fait bit of Al on the house so it might be better to finish the job with it too

We used Kytun dry verge and I'm not that impressed with it. I like the idea but the Kytun stuff is really thin and there's no easy/neat way to join long lengths

Hi Jeremy - Can I ask why you didn't just put the uPCV directly onto the EPS?

Yes, just compacted MOT1 on top of soil What did you find was the best timber to use?

Thanks - that's just the sort of insight I was looking for. I'm not sure how easy it'll be to drive wooden stakes into crushed stone though

Yes, that's right. Whereas with stone we would just lay sand and then a bed of mortar the tiles need something more substantial. I initially didn't want to go down this route but deep down I know it'll look good and I've come this far... When you put the timber down, how do you best go about filling in any gaps under it in the cases where the crushed stone isn't level? Or don't you...

We were going to lay stone paving on the largish patio and the paths around the side and front of the house so we put down a base of compacted crushed stone - but it has now been decided that we're having porcelain tiles instead, which means I now need to have a concrete base to lay them on. And this is where I'm not sure how to approach it. The stone is reasonably level but not quite and I'll need a slab which will be between 75 and 110mm thick. What would be the best way of tackling the shuttering? I've been looking at hiring steel road form as it looks like this could help make levelling easier but is timber just as good/easier? I've never done this before please feel free to advise and guide a novice!

Just as I was typing my last reply! I'd assume then that you'd have to tape it all up so that nothing can get under it. I've seen some fleeces, but it feels like overkill to fit the fleece and then correx on top

Thanks chaps. With those correx-type sheets, is anything needed underneath? What I'm trying to guard against as much as anything is all the little scratches from grit/small stones being brought in and getting under any boards and then acting like sandpaper.

We're getting the engineered oak flooring laid soon but I want to be able to protect it from boots and tools while some of the jobs are being finished off. There isn't a lot to do upstairs, but enough that I want to do something about it - downstairs there will be quite a few jobs (kitchen, skirting, final electrics, door sets etc). I need something thicker and more impact resistant than a cling film type stuff like Roll & Stroll and I'm going to assume it will be down for 4-6 weeks in the worst case - I can probably get away with about 150m2. What can anyone recommend to do the job?

The stuff we're using on site at the moment is superb but I can't remember what it is at the moment - I'll update later. For reference, my dad is a painter and decorator and he/we have used pretty much everything decent on the market over the years - this stuff is up there. One constraint is it only comes in limited colours but fortunately one of those is white! Note that paint on new plaster has very different requirements to that on other surfaces

Thanks chaps, all most useful! @jamiehamy Yours is probably closest to what we have - I think we have something like 10 extract and 14 supply ducts, all coming out of between ceiling and wall. The challenge I have is that if I mount the distribution box on the wall horizontally then I struggle to get the ones underneath to connect neatly and if I mount it vertically or on the ceiling then I get many pipes trying to cross over each other. A day of 'playing'awaits!

Thread resurrection! Anyone care to share a photo of their distribution box installation? Would like to see how much space is really needed to connect everything together

Thanks

When is the best time to trim the plenums to length - before skimming or after? We have the plasterboard fitted and skimming is starting this week so should I trim now or wait until after skimming?

Many thanks Hugh

Thanks Do you have a boost function in all locations that have an extract or just the bathrooms?

Doing first fix wiring now and working out how best to control MVHR boost. How are you finding it working off the PIR and light switches? As an aside, when in boost mode, is the system any noisier in the rooms with inlets? Thinking specifically of bedrooms

No chance!

I'm about to put a 4x4 matrix in. This one: http://store.aclasstechnology.com/essentials-4x4-hdbaset-matrix-with-4-receivers---4k2k-version-1670-p.asp I'll be routing 3 cat6 plus 2 co-ax to each TV point. 1 cat6 for HDMI, 1 cat6 for smart TV and 1 cat6 as a spare. The coax will allow a direct aerial/satellite signal to be sent, if ever needed. The HMDI Cat 6 will go direct to the matrix whereas the other 2 will go to a patch panel and then on to a switch

The one in the picture is the Bora Basic, bottom of the range. Those aren't £3k though. I think the Classic is about that price though