Gone West

This shows the gaps in the battening for where I did vertical cladding. This is to allow for ventilation behind the cladding.

Are you saying there's not enough width to the frames? Have you a picture? After I clad mine there was still frame visible.

We had 4m high triple glazed windows in our gable and they flexed far more than I was initially pleased with, but years later they're still there.

Having seen the price of a replacement, and bearing in mind I will be replacing the whole CH and DHW systems next year, if I disconnect just the programmer from the wiring box, am I right in thinking the system will still work. Am I correct in thinking it will be controlled solely by the CH thermostat and the DHW thermostat without any timing control, but will be safe. As we currently have the CH on 24/7 it wouldn't be a great loss, with just the DHW being on a bit longer than at present.

OK, thanks for your time. I do have a multimeter and I have taken live readings before but I might just try a new programmer. It's just the wrong time of year. Have a good Christmas.

No. There is only a clunk from the programmer when the main CH/DHW power switch is turned off and on again.

Both. Yes Not by turning the CH or DHW off and on, on the programmer.

Nothing trips, it just stops working. The only way to get it working again is to turn the CH power switch off and on again.

My central heating decided to stop working last Tuesday. I thought I found the problem when blowing through the thermostat seemed to clear the problem. It packed up again and I replaced the thermostat and it was ok for a couple of days. Switching the main CH power switch off and on clears the problem for anything from a couple of hours to a couple of days. When I switch the power back on there is a clunk from, I think, the controller/programmer. Any ideas what the problem could be. I have the heating running 24/7 and the DHW on twice a day.

I looked at using adhesive for ours, but when I thought of the weight of a double sink full of water I decided to fix it mechanically.

We fitted a Schock sink which had a flat flange about 8mm thick IIRC.

In case you don't have any luck with adhesive we used G Clips for attaching our underhung sinks to our granite worktops. https://www.gclip.co.uk/Undermount_sink_installation.html

My insurance company would only insure it for home and contents once it was occupied.

I asked Wendy and she said, form D is for where invoices have VAT shown separately and form E is for where the prices include VAT and therefore VAT is not shown separately. Wendy did all our VAT refund return, she's very organised, I'm not. This was done a few years ago now though, things might have changed.

Well done, I'm glad it's worked out well for you.

We've got a similar fitting on our Miele dishwasher and that screwed onto a 3/4" washing machine tap.

I've got a similar problem, but only a small area fortunately. I am going to use Lime Green Ultra insulating lime render base coat which can be laid up to around 30mm IIRC. Then when more or less level I'm going to skim with a ready mixed lime finishing plaster. I'm not a plasterer and have never done well plastering but I'll give it a go. https://www.lime-green.co.uk/products/lime-plaster/ultra

I didn't oversail the cladding on the side reveals, only at the top. I used the same detailing for both horizontal and vertical cladding.

In 2009 I ran our design through the PHPP and the BCO accepted the results instead of an, as designed SAP. It took me months to collect and check all the data until I was happy. IIRC the weather data was problematical. Even though my day job was mathematical modelling.

Well done, looks to be a neat job. Glad it worked out well for you.

Yes, we built our house in a similar way but we didn't use a ridge beam. Our house was built in 2010 and was the second construction of that type that the TF company built. The first was an art gallery which was much larger than our house. https://lowenergybuildings.org.uk/search.php?s=greendale https://lowenergybuildings.org.uk/projectPDF.php?id=255

We had a Genvex Combi 185 at our last house which incorporated an EASHP to heat the DHW and the ventilation air, if required. It only works in an extremely well insulated house. We heated our house to 23C with just three electric towel rails and the Genvex. https://www.genvex.com/en/products/air-ventilation---water-heat-pump/combi-185-bp-and-combi-flex

Back in the seventies I was told a similar thing by a chemist at work. Don't wash your hands with Swarfega, use washing up liquid and cold water so the skin pores don't open. He said Swarfega was carcinogenic in those days.

Back in the nineties I rewired my house and chased all the walls with an angle grinder and cold chisel and hammer. The dust was pretty bad so I would do as @Iceverge suggested.

Back in 2010 I had a problem with a high water table and the sewage treatment plant at my last place. The hydrostatic pressure was forcing water around the inlet and outlet pipe seals. When the water table dropped in the summer I sealed around the inlet and outlet by packing bentonite around the pipes about 150mm thick. It seemed to do the trick. You could uncover where all the pipes enter the manhole and do the same.