john0wingnut

Ok, so I shouldn't bother with a post heater then?

Im not fitting it upstairs - just rads in bathrooms. It was more around, whether having a post heater is a good thing to help bring the air backup to supply temp, as from what I have read, the supply is usually a few degrees cooler than extract, so in the depth of winter, having a post heater to give a bit of heat from the UFH loop might help the air comfort side of things

1) Should in theory receive similar level to that being extracted, and MVHR is not all that good at moving heat around, from what I have read. 2) True, but the temperature supplied from the buffer is the same that goes to all UFH zones, and small transfer is not an issue, given the HE will get the air to within a few degrees of teh extract air, and thus this would take the final edge off and get it up to supply temp - thats my thought process anyway. 3) It does. All rooms have their own zone / stat, so only call for UFH when needed.

Hi all Just wanted to clarify if my plan below is ok: I have a NIBE F2040 12Kw heat pump, doing my UFH and DHW currently. I plan to fit MVHR, when the first floor extension is done. So, my plan is, to fit a water based post-heater in the house supply duct, after the MVHR unit, then add a feed to / from it, from my buffer tank supply loop, which goes to the manifolds. If, any room in the house, calls for heat, it will activate the UFH pump and this would in turn provide the heated water to the post heater. If no heat was being requested by a room, no water would flow to it. Is that ok, or, should I have another stat, or temperature feed from the MVHR unit controlling the post heater supply? My thought process is, that if no room is asking for heat, then you dont need to have any heating in the supply air, but if heat is being called for, then having it help warm the supply is a good thing, and would not require any further controls, so to speak Thanks

Many thanks. Looks like that doesn't have a Pre-Heater to stop frosting of the HE, but does have the humidity sensor. The Brink 400 does have a pre heater, but no humidity sensor, unless bought as an add on. My other consideration is I want to be able to control it with my phone. Ive seen some of the Vent Axias can work this way - does the B plus have that function, or does it need an additional module to allow that? The Brink unit needs their e-module, which is another £300, humidity sensor another £200, so ends up being £2,100 rather than the base price of £1600.

Oh dear............. you have me worried now........... as I did have some minor concerns at the time. When you say loop failures, are you referring to the loops in the screed? Ive noticed an issue in our Master Bedroom, where by only one half of the floor is getting noticeably warmer than the other half, yet the flow rates on the manifold are the same.

Hi. I assume when you say climate sensor, you mean the actual thermostat in the room in question? If so, there will be a difference as you are measuring the temp in the actual floor, vs the air temp in the room.

Ive got a similar sized ASHP and cylinder to you, and ours has a 100 litre buffer.

Interesting to read this......... The UFH heating was designed by NuHeat and we only have one pump, driving 2 manifolds

As some further input, I am in the process of choosing an architect for my first floor extension. Pricing has varied massively from £3600 to £10k, which is just madness. One of the main areas where there is the most variability is this “feasibility” stage where you get given several proposals from them. I too know what I want, but figured others point of views may end up coming up with something better. Either way, the cost for this stage ranged from £1k to £4.6k. £1k to me is fine but £4.6k for the same thing is a tad OTT, considering one practices quote of that amount was for pretty much everything, including technical drawings. I’ve budgeted £80k ish so £4K is about right.

Argh, I understand now. You were referring to compliance with BR. Makes sense! Thanks

Argh........ So if you get PP for something and build it differently from the plan its 4 years, whereas if you just go and build something, its 2 years

I thought it had to remain in situ for 4 years, then one could ask for a certificate of lawfulness?

Interesting thread. Im in a similar position with my bungalow and am looking at adding another storey on top under the new PD planning rules. From what I’ve been advised is that so long as it’s the size of the ground floor, on the existing structure and the new ridge is not higher than 17m (that might not be quite correct) it can now be done under PD. I am also in a similar position with wanting to preserve current ceilings and as mentioned above, proposal is to have new joists put in several inches above current ones to allow for the pipe and wire runs currently in situ. I will be looking at timber frame, with cladding, and had a similar idea of getting a water tight structure on, then finishing it off myself at my pace internally. I was also advised re the scaffold roof being required whilst the current roof is removed and new walls and roof added.

Visible on one of the vaulted walls and is 860x870mm, so quite large. I may have to make one at this rate! will have a look , thanks One of the ones I’ve been too already. £360

Hi everyone Basically need to get an insulated airtight wall hatch to fit a specific size, so I can’t use standard size ones. I’ve currently had quotes from Dolle UK and trade access panels, both just above and below £400, which just seems crazy to me. Jupiter Blue make some but not quite to the size I need (10cm too narrow on the width) but there’s are only £170. Just wondered if anyone knew of any other places to try? Thanks

Thanks. What size unit did they spec you?

Ok, so no replies, I figured I've probably done something daft and no one wants to say anything...... So, I've had another go using the English Building Regs minimum Vs Passive House good practice guide. Via BR: Via PH Good Practice Guide: So via BR method the required boost value is lower than the minimum ventilation requirement, which doesnt make sense to me, and would mean I under spec the unit! But via the PH method, I get a similar ventilation number @ 260m3/h and a boost of 340m3/h, which makes much more sense. So the 400m3/h unit I was considering should be absolutely fine, so long as it is turned down to the minimum setting of 183m3/h, after signoff / commissioning etc, which would mean it was running at 45% of max capacity.

Thanks, will have a read

Who was the manufacturer of these units? Thanks

Is that one of the Flir Cams for iPhone / android?

I’m glad I just read that as was planning on getting a 400 plus. Looks like it’ll be the Ducobox 400 now then which has those abilities as standard, but at a higher price point.

I have a venting Hob currently, and as part of the extension Im planning, we are putting MVHR in. Initial MVHR plan has extract planned between the sink and hob, and we have been advised to change our overhead hood to a recirculating one, or fit a downdraft recirculator in the island, as if we had one venting to the outside it would mess with the MVHR system balance.

Im just looking into these Modus Windows, in pretty much that colour in the pic - Irish Oak. I like the fact you can get matching front and rear doors too.

Yer the trim is a nice touch, but is required due to them advising to leave the 5mm gap all the way around to ensure a plumb fit. My Dolle one replaced a young mans one and it is waaaaaaaaay better.