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Everything posted by Pocster
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Yeah the regs / interpretation do seem a bit random . Think I’ll go with a loft AAV at the end of a horizontal run ( though AAV mounted vertically of course ) . Can always add an external stench pipe off the main drain if non interested BCO insists .
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The freeview checker suggests it’s good . Though a 2 storey build ; 1 level is below ground so ‘height’ might be an issue .
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Punted for 30 quid - can always return . Stay tuned ( groan ? )
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No idea ! . The house next door ( which we use to own ) needed a booster ... Might take a punt . Stick it on a long stick and see if signal is stronger at front / rear or side of property .
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You can tell it’s Sunday as I think about a multitude of things ! I don’t want a traditional roof Aerial . AFAIK I can’t put one in my loft as the foil backed celotex will not help a signal . looking at this type of thing https://www.diy.com/departments/tristar-outdoor-dome-digital-tv-aerial/571249_BQ.prd?ds_rl=1272379&ds_rl=1272409&ds_rl=1272379&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6N6FzcLW5wIVCbrtCh24SQHREAQYBSABEgImvPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Are they any good ? . Presume unlike a traditional aerial you don’t orientate - just plug in and go ?????
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Ah confused myself again ! I’m sure the architect isn’t as clued up ... There’s lots of suggestion that you shouldn’t have an open stench pipe . Indeed you can even get an external AAV that sits on the stench pipe .. I don’t really want to penetrate the roof for a stench vent if it’s not necessary . Can I come off my WC internally ; take a pipe up into the loft and ‘joint’ it towards the loft hatch ; put an AAV ontop ? Makes access for the AAV easy , it’s higher than any cistern - but does it have to be a straight run ? i.e can the pipe work be horizontal for a bit ?
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Ok ! umm ‘d and ahh ‘d about this . Stench pipe will be internal - so a 4inch pipe off the main internal drain ok ? Can’t find any regs about where it’s vent should ( or shouldn’t ) go on the roof ! - assume not critical then .... Architect wants stench pipe and AAV
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Erm - not sure ! Qubino z wave relay can supply 200w I think . It’s not a problem will get sparky to explain - just wondered ...
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Quick question . If I have some DIN rail relays can I assume I don’t need an RCD per DIN ? . I.e the DIN can share 1 consumer unit fuse ?
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Well ! I will need to stack units above each other . As I have radial cabling per room ; it adds up . Just upstairs ( above ground ) from memory it’s about 14 ; so will exceed 20
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Lol ! Must have found them at the same time ! Appreciated!!
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Just found this ! width 292 mm ? https://www.consumerunitworld.co.uk/wylex-nmdrs20sslhi-20-way-dual-rcd-high-integrity-consumer-unit-1883-p.asp?gclid=eaiaiqobchmimq39_ivu5wivibptch0fbgeueaqyciabegi0zvd_bwe
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Yeah I looked at this type of thing ; width was 40cm + ...
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Plenty of height in man cupboard to use. But width is tricky; not on site at the moment but 30cm is probably max.... Also I'll need lots of units - if I can stack them vertically it's not an issue.
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These don’t seem to exist . I can’t find any regulation that states a ‘normal’ consumer unit can’t be mounted vertically .
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Thanks My gut instinct is to tile first . SWMBO choose the textured tiles ( ffs ! No good arguing in the tile shop and saying “ can you choose flat ones “ ) . Tiles are on order so can’t say how much texture they have I.e how non flat they are . Walls will be tile backer board - not schluter though - too expensive . All yet to arrive !
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Called up shower door / tray manufacturer ( aqua dart ) they say tile completely then fit profiles ..... This sound right ? . What about if I have textured tiles I.e not flat ???
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Ok ! There are 2 wall profiles that fit at either end . Instructions don’t seem to indicate that you tile first - so assume these go up first and are tiled too ...
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@Home Farm you got this ! . I’m building a bleeding house from zero experience- so I’m damn sure you can do this . As it happens I’m at a similar point as you are . Knowledge is power !
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There is indeed a wall profile ( it was a seperate package ) . Only 1 though ( I would of assumed 2 ; one for each end) . Will open the sliding door box to just get the instructions.
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Ok . But I assume the tiles sit over the edge of the tray . Surely I don’t fit the door and tile upto it ? ( I assumed tile the whole room then fit shower door frame ) . But will clear a space and unpack door frame etc .
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Question ! Tray is 1000 x 760 Have sliding doors for it . Not unpacked The doors as space an issue . Is the door frame exactly 1000mm ? Or is it slightly less to allow for tiles either side of tray ??
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Just placing the tray . Wanted it to be low access . Relative to unfinished floor about 45mm. I’m guessing floor tiles + adhesive + decoupling Mat = 20 mm at best . Also of course tray needs to be bed so guess that’s 5mm ? So edge of tray above finished floor around 20mm ?? - that too much ? Only way of getting lower is to remove the top level of timber support and use something thinner . Or build up with multiple levels of marine ply . What do we think ?
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