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Pocster

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Everything posted by Pocster

  1. These don’t seem to exist . I can’t find any regulation that states a ‘normal’ consumer unit can’t be mounted vertically .
  2. They seem good
  3. Thanks My gut instinct is to tile first . SWMBO choose the textured tiles ( ffs ! No good arguing in the tile shop and saying “ can you choose flat ones “ ) . Tiles are on order so can’t say how much texture they have I.e how non flat they are . Walls will be tile backer board - not schluter though - too expensive . All yet to arrive !
  4. Called up shower door / tray manufacturer ( aqua dart ) they say tile completely then fit profiles ..... This sound right ? . What about if I have textured tiles I.e not flat ???
  5. Ok ! There are 2 wall profiles that fit at either end . Instructions don’t seem to indicate that you tile first - so assume these go up first and are tiled too ...
  6. @Home Farm you got this ! . I’m building a bleeding house from zero experience- so I’m damn sure you can do this . As it happens I’m at a similar point as you are . Knowledge is power !
  7. There is indeed a wall profile ( it was a seperate package ) . Only 1 though ( I would of assumed 2 ; one for each end) . Will open the sliding door box to just get the instructions.
  8. Ok . But I assume the tiles sit over the edge of the tray . Surely I don’t fit the door and tile upto it ? ( I assumed tile the whole room then fit shower door frame ) . But will clear a space and unpack door frame etc .
  9. Question ! Tray is 1000 x 760 Have sliding doors for it . Not unpacked The doors as space an issue . Is the door frame exactly 1000mm ? Or is it slightly less to allow for tiles either side of tray ??
  10. Just placing the tray . Wanted it to be low access . Relative to unfinished floor about 45mm. I’m guessing floor tiles + adhesive + decoupling Mat = 20 mm at best . Also of course tray needs to be bed so guess that’s 5mm ? So edge of tray above finished floor around 20mm ?? - that too much ? Only way of getting lower is to remove the top level of timber support and use something thinner . Or build up with multiple levels of marine ply . What do we think ?
  11. Marine ply down - not fixed . Was going to screw it - should I glue aswell ? If so what glue ?
  12. This is all in my man cupboard. Flush cables to the wall is just too much ?. As long as it’s manageable and obvious which cables goes where I’m happy . This cupboard does not need SWMBO approval !! ???
  13. Studded floor almost done - a few infill timber to go in . Is this enough to support the marine ply ?
  14. ? Some cables are crimped as stranded cat5 ; some or keystones as solid core cable . I prefer the patch board as it means the cables won’t hopefully get moved - so any unplugging etc . Done by patch cables ( pre bought ! Didn’t fancy making them )
  15. Almost half the cat5 cable in . Pretty colours help !
  16. The plan was skim yeah ...
  17. Then stop f ing screaming ! Enjoy the torture !!
  18. Ok I have double studded and staggered the walls with insulation . I just assumed ( there’s that word again ) some sound will travel via the ceiling . It’s hard to test even if I plasterboarded the ceilings and wired the speakers as the rooms have no doors . So didn’t want SWMBO complaining later .....
  19. In each room there are tv's and also speakers for whole house audio. My assumption ( not tested yet! ) is that you really don't want to hear the music/tv in the next room. Perhaps the solution is as simple as dense plasterboard for the ceiling....
  20. Perpendicular ?
  21. No rooms above just next to each other ; so flanking
  22. Yeah I've done that for the walls. I just *assume* to insulate the ceiling from noise would be worth the effort and cost....
  23. I'm not looking for 100% noise reduction. More interested in stopping noise transferring from neighbouring rooms such as music/tv etc.
  24. I was going to use standard plasterboard for this . But I’d like additional sound proofing ( not worried about insulation as warm roof above ) . Undoubtedly when I call my builders merchants they won’t have a clue and will suggest ‘thick’ plasterboard or double board it . I’m specifically thinking about bathroom and ensuite - so not sure if moisture resistance is an issue aswell . Any advice welcome !
  25. Well ! The plan of shuttering the ufh screed leaving ‘easy’ space for waste / pipes etc . probably not the best ! Anyway - block infilled the ensuite . Will batten up tomorrow. Then should be able to cut 1 piece of marine ply to cover the lot . Have the shower tray so in theory can position waste hole in ply and through beam & block .
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