Pocster

But they won’t have the correct ends for fixing into the tap will they ?

Still leaks !! Silicone ??

A trillion turns of plumbers tape and it might be ok ?

Googling I see the slots are for the overflow to run into . But of course water through the plug hole will find that gap anyway . Rather crap design I think ! . Ptf tape around the upper part of the thread where the washer is ??

Well ! Water test and it leaks but around the sink waste . Don’t understand the sink plug . When open to drain water will run out those side gaps surely ? . Only 2 washers . 1 in sink , 1 underneath. Can’t see anything else wrong

Managed to get the compression reducer on the back . All rather tight but I think ok

For reasons unknown I installed the sink waste as 40mm rather than 32mm . So adding a compression reducer makes it all rather awkward

Bathroom actuator on . Others screwed right down so no ( ok , very little flow ) . Bathroom a chilly 10 degrees . Going to leave this overnight see what happens by tomorrow.

They say I’m a dreamer and apparently I’m not the only one !!! Those guesstimates at costing ???? Ambition fine . Gumption fine . Persistent fine . Delusional- not fine . A path to your achievement is what you need ; not a dream . The goals the easy bit .

Because the installer ( whom was recommended on here many times ) didn’t see the point of it .

Ah right ! Assumed closed was closed . Now you’ve concerned me I’m tempted to stick my own sensor on flow and return . I can then shut the manifold pump and actuators automatically if flow temp is too high . That sounds sensible ? . My uvc ufh output is set at the minimum I think of 30 degrees . So if I auto shut off everything if flow exceeds 35 degrees - it would be a good fail safe ?

Reading through old threads on all this and blending valves - naturally confusing myself . Understand the suggested requirement for a blending valve as to stop water to hot ( due to boiler /ASHP etc . failure ) entering the ufh . ’puts neck under blade ‘ . With these self regulating actuators and the delta being greater than 7/4 degrees - the actuator would shut - preventing potentially damaging the slab due to over heating . Erm , ( hides behind sofa ) - that’s correct yes ? ??

Carpet ? ??

Yeah I think so . Did search the forum and found some other threads on the issue . Will experiment next week ? It was just strange that the return / flow on that zone were cold after a few hours - even though actuator was on .

I’ll do more testing Monday

That’s what i would assume . But that flow / return on the actuator zone was cold

Maybe . But I’m still confused ! ( not hard to do ) . It would seem actuator powered is zone off I.e pin down . But in that case pump should be off . or I’ve got this all wrong ( ? ) . Ignoring the clever delta stuff - power to actuator means zone on or off ....??

Not sure https://www.wundatrade.co.uk/shop/home/quick-shop/wundatherm-quick-shop/controls-quickshop/actuator-auto-balancing/

If you zoom in on my previous photo the flow regs can be seen

Not on site now . The caps are on but loose I.e pin is up - zones open So I guess I’m saying I need to power the zones for heating off ? - but shouldn’t the pump be off then ???

Dirty dog ! Too early for that

The packaging??

What I’m saying is with zero power applied the actuator pin is in ; so if installed zone would be heated . So powering it closes the valve . So I’m heating all of upstairs apart from the bathroom???

Oh you thick (expletive deleted) ! Of course ALL the valves are open ! But I assume if I turn off the only installed actuator ( bathroom ) - power off will close the loop . So no heating in the bathroom ?!

Flow and return pipes for this zone don’t seem particularly warm . I assume I should be able to feel the heat at this point ??