Pocster

??

Probably not . Had them lying around …

Oooooooooo ! A new toy ! ( that’s unlikely to harm me ) . I’ll try that YouTube suggestion first . Probably got maybe 20 holes to do ..

Yeah. I think I read that before. For some reason I see that as an accident waiting to happen i.e. don't trust myself....

??

Think I've got it.

Got this area aswell . I can’t drill up ; nor down ? The blue insulation I can rip out . But still need to fix timber to the steel so I can have a ceiling support . Unless I can glue timber in there ???? ( it’s a light weight suspended ceiling )

This !

Bosch point teq hss drill bits maybe …

Right ! Annoyed at this . Need metal bits and drill from underneath I.e upwards just to make a hole so can bolt timber . These self drill screws just ain’t doing it

Apologies for starting a new thread on this again ! Steel around 15mm thick . Even with a pilot hole ( have to do from above as it’s the only way to get enough force to even start ) - this just ain’t happening. My assumption is if just 1 screw into the steel is a pita then I’m doing it wrong . Surely there must be a better way ?

Oh . I thought they were one and the same ?

I think "kerb" appeal is the first thing. White upvc windows always look 'cheap' - or a budget front door. I also find walk on glazing makes a house look expensive ( especially if you have to purchase it effectively twice )

Soakaway's are sometimes BS. As @Ferdinand states the distances of said soakaway from buildings/boundaries mean it's effectively impossible sometimes. My planners insisted on it - and made it a condition. After much arguing i.e. abusive emails; they conceded they had requested something that was impossible. on 99% of builds in my city the "soakaway" paragraph is copy/pasted in - with no consideration for context.

Or get a crap epc from a guy who doesn’t understand anything - so lowers the epc ?

I reckon with no heating anywhere on ; the basement is usually 3 degrees warmer than upstairs. 3 degrees just from being below ground level is a lot I reckon . No wind chill factor . My sump at this level has never had icy water even though above ground snow and ice . We should all live underground ??

How were you allowed this ? . My problem was the compressive strength ( that pir doesn’t have ) . So we have 300mm eps below slab .

? Just wondering ?? I’ve got 150mm pir outside basement timber frame . 150mm pir outside . 50mm pir inside timber stud . 150mm between roof rafters . 50mm all over it ( taped ) You got ufh ? . All I’m saying is with that make up above that I have - the heat loss is low . Not a technical analysis but just from living in it . We still have an opening in the structure for cables etc . - so a draught . Yet by limited testing ( I.e turning heating off ) will take 5 hours to drop 1 degree .

What’s your pir build up for underground and above ground timber frame ?

Yeah . But how much ‘heat ‘ are you going to loose across that bridge ? My SE wanted ‘special ‘ bolts for some galvanised brackets to prevent a thermal bridge . The bolts were expensive. I argued if we had a 1000 then maybe . But for 20 ? . The heat transfer/loss must be minimal . Far more important in the big things like insulation in the roof and walls is installed well .

Really want a Batton on the window frame edge so pb can fix from there to corner batton .

You can glue pir to pb . But then is the pir glued to timber frame ???? Anything like this my pb is always screwed to timber ….

Your photo did confuse me . I couldn’t work out what the pb fixes too - couldn’t see any timber stud …

Don't think there's anything in it ( though I'm sure someone will disagree ). I just left the gap. Foam filled. Then PB over it ; so more frame is visible - which I think personally is better.

I couldn't work out do the payments go up/down over the 7 year period. They are index linked to something.....