MortarThePoint

I know, 50kg fink trusses and I'd be laughing

I could delay the garage and carry on with the house. It will cost due to a second day of crane, additional delivery charge and chippie overhead

Heavy trusses (130kg and 260kg) to bump up and that puts unkind forces on the walls.

Yes nothing so secure them against I guess

I asked chippie if it is possible to hire a truss rack or something to store the trusses on. He talked about making platforms (possibly stacked pallets) and the strapping to the house scaffold. The scaffold wouldn't be taking any weight but would stop them toppling. I'd rather a dedicated rack of some description. A truss trailer? Any ideas? I definitely don't want the trusses lying flat

I don't understand the term 'peaks'. The walls will be up all the way round to wall plate height with gables going in later.

Yes garage is on a separate payment schedule. I wanted them both ready for truss installation on the same day. The garage gables are on the left and right of that image rather than the front of the garage where the doors are. The garage and house gables are going up after the chippie has done his truss work securing and bracing them in place.

I've contracted the brickie direct. He has staged payments and wanted to get the internal chimney to wall plate so he could submit an invoice.

Yes, I got them in a couple of weeks ago The house and garage trusses are coming together so we want to get the house trusses in place on Tuesday. That wall plate has had over a week now. Truss company isn't hiab equipped. I could look to store the garage trusses on site but that's still at least £800 down the swanny. ? ☹️

The walls with the steel beams are 140mm inner leaf and have wind posts in the pillars. The walls at the back are cavity walls made of 100mm blockwork. I tried hard to get it all done before the the weekend so there were three days of cure, but brickie wanted to do something else (chimney) which I later discovered was due to cash flow. Lesson learnt there.

Other than having to mix smaller batches and getting through it faster, is there any other downside to using a rapid hardener?

For various reasons we've had a time crunch and some pillars and the wall plate are going to go in the day before trusses. This makes me extremely nervous. The two pillars between the doors in the image below haven't been started. They are 140mm x 496mm and need to come up 2200mm. They then have a 90kg steel beam put on top to span over each doorway. The wall plate is then screwed to the top of the steel beams. On the rear there are some large lintels (1800 openings), but inner leaf masonry is already up to their bearings. That wall plate would be on mortar less than 24 hours old though. Garage trusses are coming with house roof trusses. Each garage truss weighs 130kg as they are attic trusses (one is a double and weighs 260kg). There are 16 trusses giving a total weight of 2.2t. That means there will be about 330kg of truss load bearing onto each of the pillars. In some ways that's equivalent weight to building 90cm of blockwork above the beams I guess. We lost some says last week and my brickie said he would come today but then cried off at 8pm last night. The trusses are coming on Tuesday. I see the following options: Crack on, it'll be fine. Advise on propping would be gratefully received. Delay truss install by a week, this would be house and garage. I'd be relaxed about this in the summer but with the weather we are racing to get watertight. Truss company can't delay by less than a week due to their schedule Rig something to store the garage trusses on site and then have a second day of crane (£500 + carpenter overhead) Something I haven't thought of I'm gutted the pillars haven't been built as that in my mind is the key part. There is the shock loading and non vertical loading of installation to worry about as well.

That's worth knowing. I was presuming there was a diameter of hole (e.g. 25mm) that as long as drilled in the middle of the joist was OK

It has been very smooth and I've enjoyed working with the designer, but I'm hoping it hasn't been too easy and I've forgotten something.

Cautionary tails Make sure they've included X in the price You may have forgotten a loft hatch (cough cough) I don't know what it is that I don't know

Does anyone have any advice when it comes to reviewing the roof truss design? We are having attic trusses.

The Structural Engineer seems to prefer the wide cavity lintel option which was a slight surprise to me.

Witch option do you think I should go for? I might be loosing the plot now:

The other work around that came to mind was to use a standard inner leaf lintel and widen the cavity just at the top. Lintels for a 120mm cavity are available quickly. The 100mm block at the top would be centred on the 140mm blockwork below so the load transfer should be OK. It leaves a 20mm recess in the inner leaf that could easily be filled with something like plasterboard. Could use a cavity lintel for a 140mm cavity with the 100mm block not centred on the blockwork below, face flush instead. This feels less defensible structurally (a.k.a. a bad idea).

I'm using HiTherm in the house but the garage uses non-thermally broken ones. That's a weedy lintel, I need L5/100 WIL for this as the roof space of the garage is being used. Those are on 12-14 days and Catnic are only slightly better

Separately, I'd like to replace the 2850mm lintels above the garage doors (2543 opening) with steel beams. The outer leaf would have a precast concrete lintel. I thought this was all good until I spoke to the Structural Engineer and they said they'd prefer a cavity lintel here as it's so near the top of the wall and a cavity lintel would join the leaves together. They asked about perhaps two UB steels with bolted on PFC between which all seems excessive. The cavity lintels are on a long lead time due to the wide inner leaf. I've concocted the scheme below which feels like it should be pretty solid. The Frame cramps would be on e.g. 450mm centres. Can anyone think of a more substantial way of joining the leaves which is compatible with quick delivery and reasonable cost. For clarity I've shown the block underneath the steel beam, but not underneath the concrete lintel. Obviously the wouldn't be blocks under the steel in the opening and would be blocks under the R15A in the panels ?

Well I just met with the chippie and he said he prefers to sort the lapping, anchoring and strapping of the wall plate. The brickie to leave the timber bedded down and then when the mortar has gone off he can lift the timber to cut the laps etc. He says he gets it straighter than the brickies that way. I think I prefer the idea of the brickies bedding being final rather than lifting the wall plate off again. Does the chippie's approach sound sensible?

OK makes sense, the strap isn't nailed to the wall plate whilst the mortar is wet, but the straps will hold it down as screwed to wall.

They don't joint the timber at all?

According to the article BS 8103-5 also advises that lap-joints should be 100mm long, twice nailed and that butt joints with proprietary fixings are also acceptable. Does anyone know of such a proprietary fixing? I would like to explore the option. I know lap joints should be possible but I'd like to consider something else