MortarThePoint

I'd quite happily have an above ground tank if there was such a product for 7PE or more and no freezing risk.

Silly of me not to have sorted it sooner, but am where I am

I can use the spoil landscaping so that's ok. I'm only considering the tank installation so included gravel for that not for pipe bedding. Hopefully diesel won't amount to much. I think the dry mix means I need a dumper. But that means no pump so actually saves money. Extra digger hire wipes out that saving though plus an extra day of driver hire so about +£250 over my previous calculation.

Which system did you install? Did you have a concrete backfill?

Nice to see the next generation showing an interest. Did the 3days include digging and laying the pipework?

How big was the gang and for how long?

I wondered about a small dumper as that could cover the ground between tanker and hole. Hiring that would add about £200 I'd guess, but save the cost of the operated pump. I don't think the digger and dumper would need to be operated together so the same operator could do both(?). If each load was 500kg (half full) it would take about 20 trips and the round trip might be 5 minutes so within the realms. Could get a bigger dumper and use a ramp to help with the pour from the dumper.

I wondered about mixing myself as takes the time pressure away and I can have a nice dry mix. The tank's installation manual says 500mm of backfill (i.e. concrete) all round so the volume becomes huge. Would be a lot to mix by hand, 10cube.

That is the rate I can get a 6T digger for including transport and insurance. About double that for a week, which I'd go for as I have other jobs I need it for and will consume the spoil and would get a dumper for. That's efficiency I haven't factored into the costing though. The dry mix is a concern, but I'd expect anyone would pump given the location. Ideas welcome how to address that. I think the tank's installation manual sets out a maximum water fill height above backfill, but will check.

Clay, stiff below 1.25m. the ground workers didn't have any issues with shear sided trenches. As this is deeper, would be better to have angled edges.

There are two reasons I am tempted to do this myself: I'm a self builder and I like a challenge Cost Has anyone else here installed their own STP? I've had quotes for installing just the STP tank and controls of £10-15k which feels like too much for what is involved (that's with me doing all the pipes to/from). At the bottom of this message is a rough costing I have done based on my understanding of what is involved. I expect the installation company to make a profit, but not £5k+. Have I forgotten some costs? I see it as a day of work on site. If I could find a digger driver that has done STPs before it would massively derisk the operation. I have a couple of IBCs that I would fill with water near the hole to then fill the tank during the concrete pour. A hose pipe alone couldn't cut it as I'd need to supply 4,800 - 6,500 litres in an hour. Need to check the concrete pump flow rate. Costing (all ex VAT): Assuming a 3.3m x 3m hole 2.5m deep and the tank 2/3 surrounded by concrete. 10 cubic yards of concrete: £1,000 + £90 = £1,090 [inc additional hour on site] Concrete pump up to 60m inc operator: £530 20tons of 10-20mm gravel: 20*£30 = £600 Digger hire (1day): £323 Experienced digger operator: £250 (guestimate) Dirty water pump: £55 [Sparkie option to wire up: £400] INSTALLATION TOTAL: £2,848 +£400 if Sparkie needed TANK COST (INC CONTROL): £2,500 GRAND TOTAL: £5,348 +£400 if Sparkie needed

@DownSouth How have you found the One2Clean system? I am considering the 7PE (or 9PE for future proofing) for our build.

A while ago, I started a thread about Part Q Front Doors. As the first part of a house that you interact with, I like the idea of having a door I 'made'. Since then, I have identified a PAS24 certified, door (FlameBreak) which has good thermal properties and I could dress with timber to make the sort of door I want. Problem solved if I just wanted a door in a door sized hole in the wall. Unfortunately it isn't so easy as I want to have a glass side light panel either side, AKA a vestibule frame: I'm now left with the complication of the door frame and surrounding glass as I can't find a frame that is PAS24 certified. Not that PAS24 is required, but it demonstrates Part Q compliance. I am happy to build the frame and fit glazing units myself, but need to be confident I'm meeting the requirements of Part Q. I have copied the relevant sections below, but as I understand it, I would be compliant if I built the door frame and side lights consistent with Appendix B and that means: Timber section minimum dimensions 44mm but can be rebated down to 32mm. Appendix B only really sets out dimensions for elements of the door itself, not the frame, but using that dimension would seem a good approach. Glazing unit would need to incorporate P1A glass. (would need to be toughened and have a suitably low U-value too, but that's not part Q) The side lights would each be about 540mm wide, so wider than 230mm. Am I being optimistic interpreting the panel requirements as not applying to glazed elements? Has anyone else navigated these waters? ------------ ---------------- .......

Sorry, should have mentioned that Screwfix sell it: https://www.screwfix.com/p/harosecur-strip-42500-fitting-strips-clear-500mm/742fn

Have you ever removed a toilet that is stuck down with CT1? I can't think why, maybe if broken or something. Is it possible to remove without trashing the tiles?

If doing that, I'd be inclined to trace round the bottom on the pan with a pencil, move it to the side and put the silicone down onto the floor and the place the pan back in position. Pencil line would then get covered by the later silicone bead finish. I'm may use this approach in another room where I can't drill the floor, but tempted to use CT1 for sticking the pan down. Same approach though.

@Nickfromwales when you screw down toilets to a completely tiled floor do you use this stuff, pop some silicone between the pan and floor or just sit the pan straight onto the tiles? Definitely needs a bead of sealant around afterwards but wondering if anything between pan and tile?

You still need to apply a bead of silicone around the joint when done with this though so I think it's more about avoiding the ceramic on ceramic contact if that is indeed a problem

I've just discovered this plastic strip product that you can put between ceramic surfaces. It sticks to one of them and conforms to the other. My main use would be below floor mounted toilet pans. Has anyone used it or have any thoughts about whether it's worth it?

Heat isn't so good as yesterday it softens it but it can warp it too. May be possible to optimise the temperature but I ended up using lubricant gel. Still lots of colourful language though.

Yes, it makes me nervous apply the force. There's no chance of getting the glass in with the seal in the channel unfortunately I think the hot water is a good idea to try, thanks.

I'm struggling to get the glass into the groove on the shower enclosure 'hoops'. It's a Bathstore Atlas 1100x800 Offset Quadrant Enclosure. The groove has a removable barbed silicone insert that gets put on the glass before pushing the glass into plastic receiver in the 'hoop'. I've tried pushing really hard but no joy. I can get it part in (i.e. on one side) but not all in. I haven't tried it yet, but all I can think to try is some fairy liquid to see if it lubricates it a bit. Is there a trick to this? Similar, though I don't have to trim mine to length:

braviken-sink-white__AA-329234-12-100.pdf

@CalvinHobbes sorry to come back to this, but does this sink (Braviken 100cm) gain support by sitting on something or does it bolt to the wall?

Yes, pretty sure. Also, they're from Wolseley so should be good hopefully. Previous installation only dropped a little when holding a static load. I'm using the compression coupler as a slip coupler having cut out the stop in the middle. I've marked each pipe so I know plenty is in the fitting.