MortarThePoint

I notice you you don't have a condensation trap. Any issues without it?

I would prefer a option with real PWM control and Bluetooth so I can add it to home automation, but the only people making those at the moment a NoNames on AliExpress etc. These ones: They do look cool, but if I'm to preserve the ceiling fire rating not an option. Looks tidy. Am I right in saying you've used some rubber vibration isolators on the mounting points? Where did you get those?

This is for first floor bathrooms (two) with a loft conversion above. I'm planning to use a Manrose MF100T inline fan, pushing out through roof tile vents which are already installed. In both cases, the ducting will only pass through unheated space and the tile vents are about 1.5m or less from the planned location of the ceiling valve. It feels like insulated ducting is a good way to go to avoid condensation, but I think that's only available as flexible, unless I just wrap rigid ducting with thin (25mm?) mineral wool. I could use partition roll. Or should I just use pre-insulated flexible ducting? Is it worth / required to insulate the ducting? I plan to use fire rated ceiling valves which is a bit silly as a fire in bathroom is not likely, but everything else about the ceiling is fire rated so I don't want to compromise here. Kair seem to do a sensible one (shown below). Going up from 100mm to 125mm massively reduces (-67%) the flow resistance with a minor (+18%) increase in aesthetic size. I could probably then immediately reduce to 100mm ducting since it is the ceiling valve and tile vents that are likely to be the limiting factors for pressure drop. https://www.i-sells.co.uk/product/kair-fire-rated-ceiling-extract-valve-white-coated-metal-vent/?attribute_pa_size=125mm

That sounds pretty dodgy. You'd need it L-shaped all the way along as otherwise the 'tabs' could just fold up. I'm surprised by these levitating bricks that are otherwise just supported by the door.

We do own the house at the front and it is where we are living at the moment (cramped etc). A 'bodged' water supply is easy though (I don't mean that rudely)

I have an upstand about 20m from the house but it is on the same meter as the house at the front

I am the main contractor 🙂 😱

Water connection has been an oversight since we have a semi-convenient supply for the build and I have procrastinated over sorting the proper connection. No date yet arranged. Good point, that should have been on the list Sewage treatment plant commissioned

This looks a bit strange as it is since I would have expected a lintel to have been there already. laying the bricks without a lintel would have needed a temporary wooden form (or the like) which feels like more effort than a lintel. The L-shape lintel sounds good to me. The hard bit will be getting into the sides since it needs to overextend the opening by 150mm ideally, though 100mm may be fine for such a short span.

We are itching to get in and I know that there is a significant downside to moving in whilst work continues, but we are struggling where we are at the moment. What are the minimum requirements to be able to start living in the build? I can think of the following possible items: Staircase and landing has appropriate fall prevention A working bathroom and toilet Finished bedrooms that are to be used (painted and carpeted) No exposed live wires (shouldn't be anyway) Agreement from BCO but that would depend on the above What have I missed? Is running water a must, I could install a tank and low pressure feed in a day and use bottled water. Coordinating mains water connection takes a long time. We are already connected for electricity. I don't think we need a fitted kitchen in the short term to make do.

I got the one with the heater and fire damper. I haven't installed it yet despite having got it about a year ago

Sorry if too slow, but you can find it cheaper: https://www.electricalsonline.co.uk/products/vent-axia-479091-pureair-with-heater-home-piv-unit I went with a variant of this

Yes, I might see if I can make a jig for my jointer planer to help save my fingers

I was thinking it would be tricky

Plane to a shape like this: Door opening on right side, wall on left.

Not sure I follow. The wood is recessed behind the plaster

I fitted door linings before wet plastering and the plaster came level with the lining's edge, then. Since, the door linings have dried out and shrunk back to end up about 1mm to 2mm behind the surface of the plaster. How do I attach architrave? Do I just glue the architrave to the plaster and then caulk the resulting crack? Pine door linings and architrave

A common problem I think. Glazed simple double doors are about £1500 I think and you may be looking at around £4000 to replace that photo with fire rated. I have only looked briefly and would be delighted to be wrong as I'm interested too. I don't understand the logic, but you can't have the final exit of the protected route from 3rd level as a first floor egress window (unless you have a sprinkler/mist system). If you could do that it would save me needing to get a few thousand pounds worth of fire doors as I'd then only need one.

I think you can avoid upgrading if you have an alternative exit route from the 3rd level (normally a second staircase). I'm sure the kids would go for one of these as an alternative exit route. It's probably similar in price to upgrading all doors inc. glazed door pairs and a glass partition. Wouldn't get it past the boss though.

Where did you end up with this? I'm wondering about extension options to 3 storey

U-value of the door needs to be max. 1.6 W/m2K. If it has a PIR core that would be 13mm thick. If using mineral wool or wood fibre insulation about 22mm thick. This means a compliant door needs to be about 28mm/37mm thick at its thinnest (13mm/22mm of insulation and 15mm on panel).

Good point, there is no thermal information and being 22mm thick oak the U-value would be something like 8W/m2.K

There are loads of companies that sell front doors and make no mention of Part Q compliance. I expect many BCOs turn a blind eye, but not mine. My BCO pointed me at Part Q - Appendix B about making a bespoke door that will be deemed compliant. When I first read this I understood the <=230mm panel width dimension of B.5 to mean that there had to be <=230mm between structural timbers of minimum 44mm thickness, but looking at the example door below, the manufacturer's description says it has 6 panels and so each is well less than 230mm. The whole central portion is about 22mm thick and the distance between the outer stiles is about 500mm or so. What do we think, compliant because Appendix B doesn't insist on <230mm between stiles and mullions/stiles? Has anyone had success in this area and is able to share some tips? Generic Door anatomy/glossary:

We've some rooms that are to have engineered oak flooring and others to have laminate flooring. I'm trying to plan the order of works. Should it be: lay floor fit skirting and architrave paint ceiling, walls and skirting+architrave OR paint ceiling and walls lay floor fit skirting and architrave paint skirting+architrave OR fit skirting and architrave paint ceiling, walls and skirting+architrave lay floor with scotia or cork edging I feel cork edging or scotia looks less neat. Laminate may in the future (5-10 years) want replacing with carpet, but the engineered oak should be permanent. If I have the laminate going under the skirting I expect I still wouldn't need to replace the skirting board as carpet plus underlay (9mm + 10mm) is a little thicker than laminate plus its underlay (10mm + 3mm) or am I kidding myself.

Turns out you can: https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/metal-products/gypframe-ga6-splayed-angle#standards