MortarThePoint

You still need to apply a head of silicone around the joint when done with this though so I think it's more about avoiding the ceramic on ceramic contact if that is indeed a problem

I've just discovered this plastic strip product that you can put between ceramic surfaces. It sticks to one of them and conforms to the other. My main use would be below floor mounted toilet pans. Has anyone used it or have any thoughts about whether it's worth it?

Heat isn't so good as yesterday it softens it but it can warp it too. May be possible to optimise the temperature but I ended up using lubricant gel. Still lots of colourful language though.

Yes, it makes me nervous apply the force. There's no chance of getting the glass in with the seal in the channel unfortunately I think the hot water is a good idea to try, thanks.

I'm struggling to get the glass into the groove on the shower enclosure 'hoops'. It's a Bathstore Atlas 1100x800 Offset Quadrant Enclosure. The groove has a removable barbed silicone insert that gets put on the glass before pushing the glass into plastic receiver in the 'hoop'. I've tried pushing really hard but no joy. I can get it part in (i.e. on one side) but not all in. I haven't tried it yet, but all I can think to try is some fairy liquid to see if it lubricates it a bit. Is there a trick to this? Similar, though I don't have to trim mine to length:

braviken-sink-white__AA-329234-12-100.pdf

@CalvinHobbes sorry to come back to this, but does this sink (Braviken 100cm) gain support by sitting on something or does it bolt to the wall?

Yes, pretty sure. Also, they're from Wolseley so should be good hopefully. Previous installation only dropped a little when holding a static load. I'm using the compression coupler as a slip coupler having cut out the stop in the middle. I've marked each pipe so I know plenty is in the fitting.

I used the same compression coupler in the other bathroom and it leaked at first so I'm keen to rule that out

I've got too many branches etc to do an air test I think. What I'd like to do is block the 40mm with something and do a water test as that would test the trap too. Is there something I can use to block the 40mm having been inserted through the tee?

I've got a bit of 40mm waste before the stack that includes a straight coupler (compression), tee, elbow and shower trap. I want to test all of this is ok, but not sure how to. I could easily check similar in another bathroom where the stack wasn't installed fully and I used a stop end in the partial stack. Here the stack is installed all the way to underground. The pressure will be too much to block of the stack at the bottom. Is there a sensible way to test it just in the 40mm pipework? Photo attached

I don't know what the correct method for bearing a sloped beam on a pad stone is. I can imagine welding or bolting a steel 'wedge' under the end of the beam, but would be interested to know what the answer is. Has the SE now provided a detail drawing?

I know very little about renovating, but careful since if you replace the wall the U-Value may need to improve which couldn't be achieved in just the cavity. I guess you'd need insulated plasterboard. BCO may not be fussed though since the wall area is so small, but may be worth getting a verbal confirmation first

I'm surprised this would be worth your effort cost. If there are dual carriageways/ motorways involved there is logically a closer option. It'll cost you about £30 of fuel I'd have thought. Easy to get that timber <= £0.85/m. You'd need to be getting about 500m of it for free to make it worth it (Inc time cost). That would weigh about 500kg which is way over that the roof capacity is likely to be. Roof capacity might be up to 250kg so 250m, even that feels pushing it. Assuming £20/hour and £30 fuel you'd be paying about £0.52/m just for collection.

I've always defined Stress as Pressure without Control. Well done, you've taken control and soon this will be behind you. Sort everything now as it wears on you otherwise, but it looks like that's your plan. Cut corners compound, so you're right to be taking things back. In the first picture from last night (unreturned wall), the lintel over the exterior door looks to have less than 150mm bearing. You're probably already on it, but do check. It would be another example in your catalogue of evidence if needed. Strange collection of block types in that wall too. Good to hear you're taking it down.

I'm pondering what force the nail from the nail gun would clamp the plywood to the joist with in that first gluing operation. I'm much more familiar with screws, but I expect the nails should make for a tight joint which is what you need to avoid an excessively thick glue layer. The Chippy will definitely want to use his nail gun for this bit so I wouldn't be suggesting screws unless someone more knowledgeable than me has concerns.

Gluing and nailing the plywood feels OK, but I'd glue and screw the T&G to the plywood at the joists. Then the screw is clamping both the plywood and the T&G to the joist. So yes it's gluing the T&G to the plywood, but only at the joists. I'd also glue at the T&G short edges if not at joists, already gluing if at joists. That would add strength and may avoid need for noggins.

Curious as to why the SE has specified the plywood at all. Squeaks come from rubbing and if both the plywood and the T&G are glued at the joists there shouldn't be any scope for rubbing

I've wasted many hours going round merchants to get the odd thing here and there. I think my appetite for not getting in the car extends to about £6. How much is the the Toolstation rapid delivery?

Key areas as we wet plastered the walls. If we'd gone for and dab I'd have fully covered. We have a membrane on top of precast concrete GF subfloor so I painted from that up about a block's height (225mm). The FF is hollow core (HCF) so painted about a block's worth down from that to encompass the ceiling void. Focused on joints between HCF at walls, perhaps should have sealed along whole joint. On FF painted up from HCF about a block's worth and down from top of wall plate about 150mm. Also painted up floor to ceiling all wall corners. I used Intelligent Membranes tape on windows followed by Passive Purple and then their Pink Grip. +1 for Adam being a top bloke. We don't have MVHR and am not aiming at PH standard, but did want to do a reasonable job of air tightness.

I've used Passive Purple quite a lot Aero barrier looks interesting, but I'd worry about my windows getting covered in gloop

It looks like a great approach for lightweight buildings like garden offices. I'd want the load spread a bit more than they appear to though. Looks like tops 200mm diameter hole every 1.2m which makes for a pressure of (1.2m*1.2m*1.5kN/M2) / (3.14*0.1m*0.1m) = 69kPa Which I expect would high to bear in the alluvium

You can get a funny looking spread base for Sonotubes as well: Metal music not mandatory

I've started another thread about a different approach that doesn't suit your desire for a more substantial foundation, but is interesting:

Another thread (link below) made me wonder about simple garden room foundations. This led me to discover the Rod System which looks interesting. Does anyone have any experience of the long term stability. The rods are concreted into the ground and don't go very deep so that makes me wonder. The loading won't be high, but would be interesting to know. Could be made adjustable for later correcting any movement but that doesn't appear to be done. In the US, you often see people using Sonotubes which are e.g. 12" cardboard tubes put into an augered hole and filled with concrete. These can go much deeper, but could still have a rod system at the top, though that's not how the US guys seem to do it. They have the tube/concrete stick out above grade and then bracket or bolt the timber directly to the concrete. It's cheap to hire an auger machine in the US due to how common this approach is (e.g. for decks). Flexible approach: Example of fitting timber base onto rods: Close up of parts: Another example: Sonotubes: