Thorfun

I'm so confused. I thought I HAD bought a 12-24VDC driver! 🫠

ok. so is this the constant current/constant voltage question I'm also trying to figure out?

found a driver on Amazon that says: The led driver is a constant voltage power supply and is Incompatible for lighting products with adjustable luminosity and chromaticity, otherwise it is prone to burning. For example, dimmable LED lights and color-changing light bars. so does this mean that as my light fitting is dimmable I shouldn't be using a constant voltage driver?

are you saying that if I leave it for a while it'll stop pulsing?

anyone know how I find out if a light is constant current or constant voltage? I don't see anything on the AliExpress website. I ask as I see drivers state 'not suitable for constant current fittings' so how do I know!

Thanks. It’s what I thought it might be. I’ll try and add extra load and see what happens. thanks for the offer of the other driver but I just wanted something to test Chinese lights with before I purchase a load. They will all eventually be driven by a driver in my Loxone cabinet.

in doing some research I bought one of these from AliExpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002156645871.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.10.21ef18028Q8IPM (3W version) and one of these from Amazon to drive it https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08QZ366KG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 (12W version). when I put it together the light is pulsing in a slightly irregular pattern. I've checked with a voltmeter and it's rock steady 240V at the input to the driver but the output is pulsing from 0V DC to 24VDC (ish). the driver manual says 'Min. Load recommended) 7.2W. if I disconnect the light from the driver the voltage is still pulsing. have I simply bought the wrong driver? am I not loading the driver enough? or is the driver or the light faulty?

we had strip foundations dug to 2m on the 'arms' of our build (the bits without a basement underneath) and then put an insulated raft on top like these photos show. it was designed by TSD so maybe give them a chance to come up with a design?

measured with the same tape measure you used for the walk-on glazing? .....I'll get my coat.

@Kelvin my 2 cents on this subject. 1. you have peace of mind with section 75 protection 2. last years accounts were filed 31/3/22 and so they're only a couple of weeks late. 3. talk to the director about the new company and the late accounts! it might all be very above board. 4. when doing due diligence on our groundworker his accounts were late filed. I asked him about it and he said 'are they? my accountant deals with all of that'. so he didn't even know about the late filing. I ended up hiring him and he built me an excellent basement. I understand the level of paranoia especially considering the other threads going around at the moment but this could all be worrying for nothing.

Fair enough!

Track lighting?

you really should stop PMing people pictures. this is a public forum where many folk are willing to help. by sending pictures directly to individual members you lose out on the benefit of the hundreds of people on here who might have the experience and knowledge to answer your questions. you did the same in your other thread and it was mentioned there that it's better to anonymise the photos and post them up. you'll get much better help if you do.

you don't have to worry about being hands on if you have the budget to get subcontractors to do the work. even project managing (although that in itself takes a lot of time!) will save substantial amounts of money. so it's possible to do a self-build with no hands-on 'building' work.

Well, not exactly what I said. It was designed and supplied by Enhabit and GBS took over when they merged with/took over Enhabit. The installers were arranged by GBS but they’re an independent sub contractor. it’s not been commissioned yet as we’re not finished.

Can’t wait to do mine!!

i initially used Enhabit to design our MVHR system but they eventually merged with Green Building Store and the guy that designed it ended up moving to GBS and they took over design and delivery of materials. they also sent someone to install. a great team who were really personable and did, from what i can tell, a great job. i'm sure they'd be worth a shout if you're just looking for an installer. https://www.facebook.com/apexventilation/ . ask for Ben. 🙂

bet they're bloody heavy!

if you contact Rockwool (or whatever manufacturer's insulation you choose to use) they can perform a condensation analysis for you. this should give you peace of mind that you're not making any mistakes!

yes, it might be sacrilegious but who gives a f**k! it's much more convenient in digital format. by all means have a lovely analogue vinyl setup but also have a setup that enjoys the convenience of digital. it's single minded bigoted people that think their way is the best and only way that causes so many issues in the world. if only people could understand that it's ok to be different and have different opinions and to also enjoy different ways of doing something.

I learnt a long time ago after reading many threads on avforums that audiophiles generally talk out of their arses. the 'normal' person won't notice many of the differences that they often talk about and so it's best to take their reviews with a pinch of salt!

i did!! 🙂 all our Sonos gear is old first gen stuff. back then you had to have a Sonos bridge which connected to the internet and all other Sonos devices connected using the proprietary mesh network. what i didn't realise is that these days you don't need that bridge type connection and can simply join the Sonos devices directly to your wifi network. so, i simply did that and now all speakers connect (as i have a good Ubiquity mesh network) and we no longer get skipping songs. so all good for Sonos for us now. i still have the Loxone Audio servers and will connect them to ceiling speakers in the new house and then make a decision as to whether to keep using our old Sonos stuff.

that definitely looks amazing! but at host dollar prices it'd cost me north of $6000 which, considering how shafted we are in this country with prices, will probably be around £6000. way to steep for me.

this was the only photo I could find!

our firings for our flat roofs were just attached directly to the joists. afaik noggins never hurt! except for maybe the pocket with the current timber prices. 😉