Thorfun

not looked at them tbh. I might do some reading tomorrow on the subject if I get bored at work.

yeah, exactly, 2.5mm flex is not exactly going to break the bank!

thanks. I'm looking at B&W speakers as well as my brother-in-law works for them and I'm trying to get a deal! for 1st floor speakers I can get access from the loft and add MDF backboxes but for the ground floor I'll need to cut a big square in the ceiling to add MDF backboxes and then patch up the repair. a pain but I didn't think of this early enough in the build when I was running the speaker cable. interesting that you're only running a single speaker in the bedroom, I'm struggling to come to terms with running only a single speaker and not a stereo-in-a-single-speaker in the bathrooms! it's just too many channels and too high a cost to justify stereo in the bathrooms. but I think in the bedroom it's worth it. I have a Unifi network so hopefully I won't have any issues with the audio server over that and I might simply run a 2.5mm cable from the PSUB to the network cabinet for reduced cost but I'll have a think about it.

our lot just angled the banks back to a suitable angle. not sure how much science was involved in the angle but we didn't have any bank collapses. they did put plastic sheeting over it though to reduce the risk of rain causing soil slippage.

hey @Kelvin! i'm starting to think about adding my audioserver to my setup. Can i ask what in-ceiling speakers you used? And also what PSU are you using to power the audioserver and stereo extensions? and a generic question to any knowledgable Loxone folk about Tree turbo. The audioserver datasheet says that Tree Turbo and Tree are not compatible. so i presume that the AudioServer doesn't connect to the miniserver by tree but accesses it via the network? the datasheet also says to use 1.5mm cable for the power for the audioserver/Tree turbo. but running the power and 24V through a cable size calculator it looks like 1mm would suffice. i have an audioserver and 4 stereo extensions but will probably add another couple of extensions to make it 6 in total. i can easily have a spare power outlet from my Powersupply and backup unit so that would be able to supply 240W of power but my audioserver will be in my network rack which will result in about a 5m length of wire from PSUB to the audioserver so i'm thinking about getting a standalone PSU just for the audio server and adding it to the DIN rail in the network cab as over 5m i'd need a 2.5mm cable. still doable though!

i think we'll have plenty other options, don't worry.

Our BCO said it was between us and our insurance company.

Welcome!

Find the architect you want to work with not one the builder uses. It’s your dream home not the builders!

I’ve no doubt my 36U cabinet is complete overkill! But I do like the space I have in it for “future expansion“ 😂

Shame about the lack of space. I managed to shoehorn a 600(d) x 800(w) 36u tower in my comms room. So won’t take a full server but I can put together my own server in a shallow case should I require it.

I misunderstood too! Thought they meant the connector blocks in the Loxone cabinet. 🤦‍♂️ I got my patch panels from cablemonkey as well. Were the cheapest place I found. my server rack cabinet came from broadbandbuyer.

I bought mine from various places. Decided on what I wanted to use then scoured the internet for the best prices. I’m pretty sure I put my spreadsheet (or a screenshot of it) on this thread somewhere!!

mine is a Future Automation cabinet as well but I got mine through @Rob99

My Quooker boiling tank stopped working. Support said it was scale buildup and sent me a free kit to descale it. Was pretty simple to do and has been fine since. I’m sure I’ll need to do it again in the future but they can just send a new free kit again!

Can you contact LuxPower to ask them if their BMS can handle different manufacturers of batteries?

AC can be for downstairs too! Many times this year while working from home have I used the AC in my study.

We missed with screws through battens and 80mm PIR in to 38mm wide studs often. Just slapped some airtight tape over the hole and move on! I also told every trade who came on site about our airtightness requirements and said if you make a hole to let me know and we’ll seal it. In the end had to do that pretty infrequently as they all seemed to get what we were trying to do.

Why don’t you just use optimisers to get over the shading issue?

i had a countersink bit with the drill bit in it already so did both in one go. 😉

don't know. i've not tried since as i'm happy with single phase for now. if i ever need to start using 3-phases i'll look in to it then! hopefully the OP has considered this though.

this is the key point! how many suppliers offer a modern smart 3-phase meter that actually does net metering? when i had my meter installed a couple of years ago getting a 3-phase smart meter was next to impossible.

Out of interest, are you going to run the house on 3-phase? We have a 3p supply but run the whole house on a single phase and so our PV inverter is also single phase and can power the whole house. If splitting over 3-phases you will have to balance what appliances use each phase PV production so, afaik, you’re more likely to “waste” generated electricity if nothing on a phase is running. It just all complicated the house electrics for me and I’m happy we kept it simple! I have run a 3p cable from the cabinet to the house so I can install a 3p EV charger at a later date if required.

Like Nick said I think you’re over complicating things just put a board up and chalk line where the cross battens are and you can’t miss! (Unless they’re screwing at a strange angle) and we pre drilled and countersunk all our service cavity battens. Got a cheap table drill and eventually got it down to a short overhead of time. But we were doing it ourselves so weren’t paying someone the extra time it took.

i hope no one gets burned financially by this. our TF company Flight Timber went out of business and i remember at least one member on here lost money because of it. i think if i were to ever do this again i would seriously consider a stick built house. could then buy materials as required through a local BM and substantially reduce risk