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Thorfun

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Everything posted by Thorfun

  1. So that’s 200W for 4 channels, so 50W per channel = 2A at 24V According to https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/voltage-drop-calculator.html?srsltid=AfmBOooS_T6EeoNwm4mKssOsB77oXk5xoEFFhkeRZ4YgNKtO_lWPu_1X a 15m one way distance 1.5mm cable is sufficient.
  2. It’s probably more the voltage drop at 24V over 20m that’s requiring the larger cable
  3. Sure. But can I still use 12.5mm plasterboard with no top and bottom channel? I’m not sure of that as the white book doesn’t say it’s possible.
  4. That is wonderful information!! I didn’t know that. Didn’t see anything in the white book either but I guess it makes sense. although I’m using 1800mm x 900mm boards so 400mm centres don’t work for me! 🤦‍♂️
  5. Nope. Sign off already done.
  6. Yeah. I’ve done the gypliner system without issues, I just wanted to try something different and cheaper as you’re not having to pay for the top and bottom channels and the brackets. but any savings will be wiped out if I have to use BG products as they’re twice the price of the alternatives
  7. for my next walls I'm thinking of using the DriLyner Fix system as specified in the BG Whitebook. https://www.british-gypsum.com/documents/white-book/british-gypsum-wb-drilyner-fix.pdf this uses MF10 channels (https://www.british-gypsum.com/products/metal-products/gypframe-mf10-channel#standards) bedded in to dabs of adhesive. I'm struggling to find alternate manufacturers (as BG are stupidly expensive) for this sort of channel that can be bedded in to adhesive rather than fixed using GL2 brackets. anyone know of an alternative please? @nod will probably just tell me to dot and dab but I don't want to do that as I'm very very slow and by dabbing the MF10 channels to the walls I can do bits at a time and then plasterboard at my leisure!
  8. totally different experience for us with Wren. very happy with the whole process and the support we've received.
  9. Have a word with @Pocster as he has a grid tiled ceiling and says modern tiles look nicer than the old ones and might be able to suggest new tiles that don’t look as bad.
  10. nice! welcome, congratulations and good luck!
  11. I think we need to be a little bit. SWMBO thought me a little bonkers when I would vacuum in the studs before putting insulation in.
  12. oh wait. $12000 according to the description of the video. sounded like he said $2000 in the video.
  13. i don't care! $2000 with all those attachments? if it lasted 4 weeks that'd be cheaper than hiring one for that period. i'm tempted to take a look. for the small jobs i need to do around here that could be perfect. it's hard to justify the costs of even second hand machines when you're using it 6 or 7 times a year.
  14. maybe next winter.....or the winter after. it seems i really am as slow as you.
  15. I was a little concerned about how the brackets would look as they were below ceiling level but then just figured they’d be in the cupboard so who cares! 😂 if I can be bothered I’ll see if I can change it so they’re above the ceiling line.
  16. I did it @Nickfromwales! not sure if it's exactly how you were suggesting but it feels pretty solid. I even added diagonal bracing on the brackets for extra sturdiness. I'm a belt and braces type of cowboy.
  17. I question the need for this anymore with TVs getting lighter and fixings getting stronger do we really need to worry about fixing in to plasterboard anymore?
  18. I do believe you, it’s just so much fun winding you up. 😂
  19. Who are you trying to convince? Me or yourself! 🤣
  20. For that authentic office look
  21. thanks. next saturday when I'm doing the job I'll see if I can figure it out!
  22. Not sure I understand what you mean. 😢
  23. it's not the size, it's how you use it. at least that's what @Pocster says.
  24. but the z-shaped purple line under the stairs' perimeter channel will be pointing at an angle down unless I can cut a piece of wood at the right angle to make the channel sit at 90deg?
  25. sure. no issues fixing the top wall channel to the top hat and that was what I figured would happen for the wall. but where do I fix the MF6 perimeter channel to (coloured green in the photo)?
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