Thorfun

The Whitewing stuff is basically DMX controlled relays/dimmers. I have mains and 24V units but also some Loxone relays although Mike from Whitewing is now offering mains relays and I’d probably use those if I was doing it again as they work out substantially cheaper iirc. so I have a mix of mains lighting and 24V leds/strips but it’s all wired back and controlled centrally from the Loxone cabinet. You have to consider the voltage drop for 24V lighting when doing it this way and size the cable accordingly. when you start to get a hang of this all go through my thread again as there is some great information on there but I understand it’s a lot to go through and digest when you’re first starting out!

Damn! That’s a lot of questions. Although pales in to comparison to the number of questions I asked on the subject. 🤣 1. Loxone all the way for me. I wanted a system that was easy to manage/maintain if I wasn’t around. 2. I think so. At least I hope so! I think as long as you don’t use tree cable then you could change ecosystem. I ran 1.5mm T&E to every fitting and Cat6A to every switch and PIR location. You can run multiple tree devices off a single cable but I configured each room so I had one Cat6A cable for 2 x tree devices generally. More cable but gave flexibility if I didn’t want to use tree devices. 3. I asked the same question and was told it was a waste of time and cable. 4. in Loxone if you went for their 24V downlights then each on is individually addressable and controllable if you want. I’ve done that in our music room and set each one to be a different colour for one setting which was pretty cool. but you can just do the same as for home assistant and control 230V fittings wired in a string using either Loxone relays or 3rd party controllers. I like the Whitewing stuff but others have bought cheaper controllers from Aliexpress. But I chose to support a small UK company in the end. Also Loxone gives you the option to run different controllers, e.g DMX, KNX, Dali etc. so it can basically do whatever you want! It’s definitely a bit on a minefield when you start thinking about it all and it took me a while to get my head around it all. Take your time and all will become clear in the end.

We had to (SE England) have a step down due to building regs. isn’t it something to do with fuel spillage? I never bothered to read up on it and just did as we were told.

I think you’re going to the wrong cinemas! 🤣

It still costs money!

Special ceiling for a special boy

Nah! It’s in the basement and is just bare concrete walls at the moment so plenty of time to plan and run cables.

I’ll get the landscaping done first and then can start thinking about the fun stuff

Yeah. I’ve bought some good stuff (and sold!) through that forum.

Great question!! Not really planned it out yet but I’m thinking 7.1.4 at least. Maybe 9.2.4 if I can stretch to it. But if I start thinking too much about it now I’ll not be able to stop and it’ll consume every waking hour!

They have one in Bristol. https://www.sevenoakssoundandvision.co.uk/sevenoaks-Bristol

I would suggest going to a local store to their demo room and try it all out. We have Sevenoaks Sound and vision down this way but I’m pretty sure Richer Sounds have demo rooms. You can sample an Atmos setup there.

Yes! A dedicated Atmos setup will blow a soundbar away. But I question the need for 4 Atmos speakers. A 7.1.2 setup if your room will accommodate the extra surround speakers would suffice? I’ve previously had a 5.1.2 system and that was darn good. I would suggest work out where the screen and sofa would go and then see what speakers you can fit in the space around it. I’m very excited for you. I can’t wait until I’m able to do the cinema but it’s years away sadly. But, then again, you have already been building for about 5 more years than me.

I fixed all our 45mmx45mm battens with 90mm ring shanks and the cladding is still up!

I bought a Hikoki battery nail gun. It lasted about 2 months and the started misfiring and double firing. I was told this is quite normal for it! I got my money back and bought a Paslode. It’s light and rock solid. Don’t regret it for a second.

can you not do the same thing with packers though?

I’m a sucker for new stuff so I already have hinge jig and door stand etc. my router will also do the hinges but I think it doesn’t plunge enough to do the latch but I’ll cross that bridge when I get to it! very kind of you to offer though. I’m sure I’ll be posting nearer the time for more advice on it all though.

Were the linings a kit or did you make the linings yourself? I have some stupidly thick walls I will need to make my own linings for using 25mm MDF.

Environmental reasons mostly to reduce our carbon footprint as we had sh!t loads of concrete in the basement so didn’t want any above ground.

Why SIP specifically and not also compare to timber frame? SIPs don’t perform well acoustically afaik due to the PIR insulation sandwich. with TF you can fill with other insulation to make it perform better acoustically. also, if you want to do work yourself and save money and have 3-5yrs then you could do what we did and get an open timber frame and do the insulation yourself. search for my blog on here to see what we did.

Ignoring costs this is one thing I wish we’d done. It would’ve made fitting the airtight membrane so much easier without having to cut around trusses.

We have external blinds automated with the weather and internal temperature and I’m still extremely glad we installed AC. I wouldn’t discount it off the bat as it’s a lot easier to install while you’re building than retrofitting it!

I’d say you don’t want to negate all the solar gain! You can use it to heat the house and then block it out with external blinds. The sun is free heat after all.

If she’s at that stage already then she won’t last the stresses and time sink of a self-build!

Don’t do it! You sacked them for a reason. Surely there are more than 3 people you can look at using. Search slightly further afield. You don’t need a PH architect, just an architect that knows what they’re doing and is open to ideas about PH principles. You don’t need 0.6ACH, you don’t need PH certification. Just build a house using the PH principles and you’ll get a lovely home to live in for however many years you choose to stay.