Thorfun

so how does one know when it's required?

I also have a question. our rainfall heads are ceiling mounted. I have a threaded bolt type thing that the mounting pipe attaches to. what do I need to put in the ceiling to attach that threaded bolt to?

I fitted one iBox with hep2o and was very joyous when I tested it and it looked dry! sadly that didn't last and I found a small weeping leak. this is due to the fact that my adjustable wrench is rather fat and so I couldn't tighten it any further. so I have ordered a slim adjustable wrench which will allow me to tighten all the connections up. still, thought I'd post a photo of how it looks anyway.

greetings. I am using hep2o 90° tap connectors to connect my toilet cisterns to the water supply. they come with a rubber washer and I can't figure out what it's for! can anyone shed any light please? it's the bit with the red arrow pointing to in the image below:

we bought these https://www.ultraleds.co.uk/plaster-in-standard-recessed-plaster-in-led-aluminium-channel-3-metre-length.html but I see they have dramatically increased in price since I bought them! I paid £19.70+VAT for a 3m length. here are a couple of photos after we fitted them. I cut out the channels in the plasterboard after they were put up and then fitted the profiles.

perfect for that city office look

here's what we did after getting a design from a lighting designer. we will have 3 pendants over the dining table and island, directional spots to light artwork/walls etc, led strips under wall units and the walkway around the island we decided to swap out spots for an plastered in LED strip channel. we think it looks amazing and have planned for it to be equidistant from the island so it 'should' frame the island. here's a photo, kitchen is being delivered next week so we'll see if our planning worked out. so the only actual downlight spots we have will be the couple shown in the entrance to the kitchen/dining area. we really wanted to avoid that grid of spots look. you can be so much more creative and your layout for the room really lends itself to be so. using different lighting for each 'section' of the room will help the demarcation of each area and give different mood lighting for the activities that will be done in those areas. we feel that the £1500 we paid the lighting designer to give us a concept design for our house was invaluable. but we'll only know for sure once the house is finished and we're living in it.

+1

couldn't agree more

It's probably cheaper to just buy everyone who lives in the property noise cancelling headphones though

50mm RWA45 here. don't know how it performs yet though as we're not finished. 😉 i doubled it for the ceilings though but with the posi-joists being 304mm deep i figured i had the room to do so.

if you're thinking 2 years plus, add a year to it! especially if you're self-managing and doing work on it yourself. everything takes longer than you think.

most of those annotations are to do with our structural engineering design so won't be pertinent to your build up as your SE calcs will be different.

I bought a load of 150mm screws online. So much cheaper than Screwfix.

Are 125mm screws enough? With 25mm battens that’s only 25mm into the rafters. Doesn’t seem deep enough. We put 100mm PIR under our rafters and with 25mm battens used 180mm screws which gave a 55mm bite. Happy for someone to tell me that was overkill but I didn’t want them coming out!!

i have a timber frame and basement and achieved an airtightness score of 0.98ACH (i know i could've got better if i had more time but was happy with what we achieved so didn't bother). i learnt everything i needed to know on this forum. 🙂 we put a Tony tray between the basement and ground floor (as well as between ground and first floor). a basement is inherently airtight anyway as it's concrete! apart from that it's standard airtightness detailing around windows and doors and penetrations etc. if i was doing it again i would opt for a cut roof rather than attic trusses as they were a real pain to detail with insulation, membrane and tape! you might find a few gems in our blog but feel free to ask anything. there are a few others on here that have basements that i learnt from as well.

cement board? don't know if that's suitable but thought i'd throw it out there?

that's the beauty of our language isn't it? i'd say it's still overboarding but under the rafters and internal to the rafters. then you could also use 'on top of the rafters internally' to describe what you're doing but that could also cause confusion! i think the way you described the full make-up from external to internal gave the best description of what you're achieving. and i understand the requirement for brevity as we're all busy people (apart from @Pocster as the only thing he's busy on is handing out virtual biscuits) but sometimes you have to put all the details so there's no ambiguity in the written word. so you'll often see someone state 'build-up from external to internal is ........' and such.

I agree with @Gus Potter The use of the words “over (the) rafters” made it sound like external insulation. Which is obviously where the confusion came from.

Well I will have a number of VMs running on a NAS so I guess you could say that! 😂

I may have gone a tad overboard with the number of network sockets planned. 🤷‍♂️😂

the 'edit' feature for a post is only available for a short time after posting. if there's something you really want to edit then reach out to a mod who can do that for you. you can find who the Mods are by going to Browse -> Staff in the menu at the top.

can your carpenter make a set for you? but if you wanted concrete then isn't it just a case of making the formwork and then pouring the concrete probably with some reinforcement?

here's mine! and that's not including the the Green Cat6A for the Loxone system which runs to the wall behind the camera.

sadly Covid has got in the way of me doing any work. so I'm researching stuff at the moment.