Thorfun

think the discussion starts about here the thread does move quite quickly sometimes.....unlike me most of the time! 😆

Way too late for you but we put 18mm ply along the kitchen walls to ensure there was something to fix to. maybe on the next one?

I tried to get the elbow to finish a few mm back from the finished tile face which was recommended on a thread on here.

we held up our riser bar while we were both standing in the area and said 'about there will do'. very scientific! for our iBox controls we were a bit dictated by the noggin in the timber wall at about 1200mm and I couldn't be bothered to move it so we plumped for the controls to be at about 1100mm. seems about right for us but we're all pretty short! 😆

is it worth the extra for the Honeywell wiring centre in your opinion? https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/honeywell-home-wiring-centre-230-v-42005748-001/p/834330

thanks. I've ordered one. seemed to tick all the right boxes. if it doesn't then Amazon's return policy will be utilised!

we have a thin screed. 50mm liquid cemfloor. and this is just to keep the temperature ticking over so I don't have to manually turn it on and off or keep monitoring it. just want to keep the house at around 19°C for the winter so when I'm working out there I'm not freezing my nether regions.

I guess I could go for the official Mitsubishi transmitter/receiver combo. https://www.saturnsales.co.uk/Ecodan-Wireless-Transmitter-PAR-WT50R-E -Receiver-PAR-WR51R-E.html. should be plug and play and will then turn the pump on. I guess the issue would be how do I then get the single pump to turn on the required floors motorised valve. damn. maybe that won't work then

looking at a few wireless thermostats. are they all compatible with ASHPs? this one https://www.cityplumbing.co.uk/p/esi-wireless-programmable-room-thermostat-white-esrtp4rf/p/455329 has instructions https://support.esicontrols.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2022/05/esrtp4rf-_installation-instructions_web.pdf that says I don't have a boiler! are there specific wireless thermostats for ASHPs? I don't want anything too flashy or expensive as it's a temporary measure.

so I found this about wiring the Honeywell motorised valve my valves have 6 wires so will be the diagram on the right. that block in the middle looks like the Drayton wiring centre you linked to, right? so if I wire it all up like that then things should work? out of interest, what is the 'Programmer'? is that the timer? also, my pump is wired in to the FTC6 via a wago connector block and connects to the FTC6 as shown below so is wired to Out2 which according to this manual is so would I get rid of the wago block and put the pump and the cable to OUT2 of the FTC6 and join them to the Drayton wiring centre 1, 2 and 3 as per the above diagram?

like one of these? https://www.theunderfloorheatingstore.com/products/salus-5-zone-wiring-centre?view=compare&compare=heatmiser-uh4-4-zone-wiring-center,polypipe-ufh4zw-4-zone-wiring-centre

yes. this is what I need I think! but what do I need to make it work and wire it all up? I will have to Google this and/or look at the manual.

yes. this is exactly what I have. I'm not actually sure! our heating engineers have wired it up but I'm not sure what is making the call for heat. it might be the inbuilt thermostat within the FTC6 controller unit.

interesting. I have noticed that when I manually turn on the heating the pump is one of the first things to come on so maybe my system is similar and I actually need something to turn on the pump and open the valves?

so, afaik, it'll be like this. thermostat on one or both of the floors requests heat. something receives that and tells the ASHP to startup and produce hot water for the domestic heating. in turn the pump for the ufh needs to be turned on and the relevant motorised valve opened to allow water to go to that floors manifold. All the actuators on each floor's manifold is permanently open so the opening of the motorised valve allows the water to flow through the ufh pipes. make sense?

do you have multiple zones then? if running as a single zone isn't paying for motorised actuators on each loop on the manifold expensive and unnecessary?

I don't want to control zones though within a manifold so my actuators will be on all the time. I want to control the motorised valves and turn the ASHP on when the thermostat says so.

need help with my ufh system control. it's going to be a while before I can get Loxone up and running and integrated. so, for now, I want to run the ufh from 2 x wifi thermostats. one in the basement and one on the ground floor. these thermostats will need to communicate with something to open up the valves and call the ASHP for heat. we have an Ecodan ASHP and UVC with the FTC6 controller. here's a photo of the motorised valves. what do I need to get this working please? what parts do I need to buy? and is putting it together DIY-able?

seem to be a good price and good specs with 20mm lippings all round https://www.climadoor.co.uk/internal-doors/internal-fire-doors/modern-7p-oak-fire-door. anyone used Climadoor before?

You can batten and counter batten above as well to give the air gap above when using breathable roofing membranes. Before doing so check with the manufacturer and building control.

Personally I’m shit with a jigsaw and would use circular every time if possible. Or a track saw. I don’t know how to stop the chipping though.

think we'll still go for these XL doors though https://www.doorgiant.com/oak-doors/xl-joinery-palermo-essential-internal-oak-door-oak-finish/ says the XL's lipping is 20mm on all 4 sides whereas the Howdens Daytona is only 10mm on 3 sides.

bloody hell that's cheap! I wonder what the difference is for between the Daytona and the Linear?

@Buzz. don't suppose you could get me the price from Howdens for this door could you please? 6'6" x 2'9" https://www.howdens.com/joinery/doors/howdens-linear-oak-pre-finished-door-obj-sku-family-die7160 just would like to compare with the price for the XL Joinery door from my local BM

I used hardie board behind the toilet to reduce the risk of flex. But Jackoboard everywhere else in our wetroom/shower areas. Did so on the recommendation of the tiler and a good friend who’s been in the game for a long time. It was enough to convince me! Elsewhere in the bathrooms I used moisture resistant plasterboard