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Thorfun

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Everything posted by Thorfun

  1. Thorfun
    ahhh....that makes perfect sense and sounds like a plan! thank you. 🙂
  2. Thorfun
    yeah. I know this is the right thing to do and it shouldn't take too long but, at the moment, the thought of cutting and drilling a pilot hold just fills me with lethargy! out of interest, I thought pilot holes should be narrower than the screw size? so for a no. 6 screw the drill bit should be smaller than 6mm for the pilot hole. I presume this is not the case?
  3. Thorfun
    Cheers. Was thinking of splashing out on decent screws that don’t require pilot holes to save time. something like these https://timco.co.uk/60150VY-velocity-premium-multi-use-screws-pz-double-countersunk-yellow
  4. Thorfun
    didn't want to start a whole new thread for a quick question so thought I'd just tag it on to this one. I have 80mm PIR and 25mm battens. what length screws should I be using to go into the TF studs? I've been thinking 150mm which would give 45mm into the studs. is this enough?
  5. Thorfun
    I spoke to a Rockwool rep today and he recommended 50mm batts in my 89mm internal timber studs. Said it shouldn’t be fully filled as you risk compressing the insulation. but he’s a salesman and maybe 25mm will do as @nod says.
  6. Thorfun
    we also have steel beams and slabs at different levels to the block and beam. I will investigate it as an option.
  7. Thorfun
    ahh...right got it. so TLA is poured then you staple the UFH pipes to that before it goes off and then finished off with a liquid screed. how did the TLA compare price wise to using EPS? I get the feeling it'll be more expensive but quicker (as is the norm with these things)
  8. Thorfun
    what was under the polythene though? it had to be soft to take a UFH staple, right?
  9. Thorfun
    how would you attach the UFH pipes if using TLA on top of a slab or block and beam? using click tracks? or the egg-crate type thing? then put the TLA over the top of that? we have block and beam and I was going to lay EPS but maybe I should look in to TLA a bit more.
  10. Thorfun
    cheers. did a quick google and the lamda value doesn't seem great. https://coreprosystems.co.uk/building-insulation/thermal-lightweight-aggregate-tla/ this place suggests 140mm thick to get 0.25W/m2K U-value and this place https://www.energystoreltd.com/professional shows their best thermal conductivity is 0.043W/m.K which is worse than EPS. so, it seems good if you've got a lot of room but if you're tight on room then PIR and liquid screed will give better results. would be an interesting investigation to calculate the cost difference between those 2 methods. maybe the OP's contractor is suggesting it because it will save him time but may not necessarily be cheaper for the customer.
  11. Thorfun
    this is a very good point! 🙂
  12. Thorfun
    sorry....what is TLA?
  13. Thorfun
    I'd say it's worth having a little bit of insulation on top of the slab simply to stop all the heat from the ufh going down and just heating the ceiling of the ground floor. even if that's 25mm PIR. I guess it all depends on FFL on the first floor and ceiling heights. do you have the space to put insulation down or not?
  14. Thorfun
    find the timber you want to use and then ask the SE if it's ok to use it. never any harm to double check with the SE. for us a quick email and response gave us peace of mind.
  15. Thorfun
    visited my local BM trade fair this morning and was chatting to the Rockwool rep and when I told him I went glass wool as Rockwool didn't do a 0.032W/m.K batt (0.035W/m.K is the best they currently offer) he said that it was in development and should be available in about 6 months. obviously, salesmen can't always be trusted but at least they're working on the product to give an alternative for those of us that want that little better U-value. I did tell him it was too late for us though but he gave me a free beanie hat so I went away happy. 🙂
  16. Thorfun
    so the PIR will be inside the VCL? yes, that's possible but me being a paranoid old git I'm concerned about off-gassing from the PIR in to the house. so I want to keep it all on the other side of the VCL so any off-gassing doesn't come in to the house. obviously, this might not be a thing so don't let me stop you!
  17. Thorfun
    +1 for a nail gun. I hired this https://www.jewson.co.uk/p/nail-gun-JTH03300 from Jewsons. did the job perfectly and no injuries were sustained. was fully PPEd up with ear defenders, goggles, gloves etc. just be careful and you'll be fine and it'll do the job in a fraction of the time.
  18. Thorfun
    ha ha...no worries. I did wonder!
  19. Thorfun
    never considered clout nails to attach a VCL to PIR! seems excessive for a temporary hold though.
  20. Thorfun
    what size do you think wouldn't pull out? I can buy more staples but I'm loathe to buy a new staple gun to take large staples if my current gun won't as this is just temporary until I get the service cavity battens fixed and double sided tape should do that job.
  21. Thorfun
    8mm staples https://www.screwfix.com/p/easyfix-staples-zinc-plated-8-x-10-6mm-5000-pack/803cc
  22. Thorfun
    yes I agree. and part of me is regretting not going for the twin stud passive wall build up. even though I'm saving a lot of money by installing the insulation myself it is a real ball ache and has issues, like this one, that need overcoming. but I will persevere.
  23. Thorfun
    Careful, you’ll get @pocster involved with searches like that. ?
  24. Thorfun
    so, the answer is yes, but not very well. the staples are very easy to pull out. and so I will be doing @JohnMo said and purchasing https://www.toolstation.com/double-sided-tape/p44920. should keep it in place until the battens go on.
  25. Thorfun
    there's one here for you. just bring your tools with you. ?
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