Thorfun

I have the evolution disc cutter which definitely does the job of cutting dense concrete blocks! so I'm not averse to using their products. I was just thinking something for cutting rips of timber. so something cheap-ish and doesn't need to be professional grade. this product just seemed to be too good to be true for the price they're selling it at. and that makes me paranoid! ?

I received a mail shot from Evolution about this table/mitre saw which seems very good value for what it can do! https://shop.evolutionpowertools.com/collections/table-saw/products/fury6?utm_source=drip&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=FURY6&utm_content=header anyone got one? used one? got any other options? I have loads of tools but I don't have a table saw for ripping sheet timber and thought something like this might be a useful addition to my tool collection

how is it possible to get self-levelling compound so far out? I thought the clue in the name 'self-levelling' would mean that it levels on it's own? although, having never done it maybe it's harder than I think to get self-levelling compound level!

we went through this exactly..... planning said that the new building was disproportionate to the existing dwelling (a bungalow). when we pointed out that we could under permitted development extend out the back along the entire length of the building and then also convert the loft space to create even more space it soon became apparent that the new house was not actually disproportionate and the plans got approved. I would suggest putting in the size of house that you would like (and can afford) and then argue when/if planning say it's too big. much better to do that than to go in with what someone thinks they might agree to only to then find out you could've got more!

is that to protect it during the liquid screed pour? or for some other reason?

that's how Wunda suggest to do it. https://cdn.wundatrade.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/M07-generic-Wunda-premium-Manifold-2-5-2017.pdf

so, after all of that I decided to just buy the manifold and fit it now! when I started to add it all up it was almost half the price of a manifold. thanks for everyone's advice and I think this was a good example of not seeing the woods for the trees as I got so blinkered about using elbows that I didn't see the benefits of just skipping to the end result. it's amazing how focused you can get and it takes a moment or two of stepping back from the problem to see and consider all the other options.

you don't mention budget anywhere (although I have to admit I did skim read some of the posts!) but I'm surprised that you can't go bigger to create the space that you need. if planning are adamant about the size then have you considered a basement? also, have you potentially looked at going down the Paragraph 79 route? I recall reading a few threads on here about Paragraph 79 self-builds. here's one: seems like a great way to get a house you want in an AONB but I'm guessing it comes with a price tag to reflect. that's why I was asking about your budget. just seems a shame to build a 4-bed forever home when you really want/need a 5 bed and may end up having to move if you do decide you need more bedrooms.

no problem and thanks for looking. I will bite the bullet and order some 16mm elbows.

that's a shame. thanks for letting me know.

actually, don't worry. I found a photo on the website for the company to show the plastic overlap at the bottom where I have it. https://www.uheat.co.uk/underfloor-heating-edge-perimeter-insulation-25m/ I figured it should be there but was having a special moment.

the yellow stuff I bought has a 'trim' of plastic with a sticky strip. I presume that is to go on the floor like the picture below? to stop screed getting underneath and behind the expansion strip? our screeders said to use gaffer tape for that but as this strip has the plastic built-in I presume we can just use that? or does it go at the top to stop screed splashing up and behind? what did others do with that plastic strip? edited to add: the eBay advert call it an overlap strip "25m 150mm x 8mm with self adhesive Overlap & Backing Strip" just doesn't mention where that overlap goes

thanks Rob. I think my Google search skills are a bit off at the moment! in that case I think these are the ones I'll use. it would be great if you could find some ufh pipe and see if they fit. if not, I might just buy them and return them if they don't fit! ?

yep. interestingly those 16mm fittings from JTM are bespoke: "JTM 16mm compression fittings manufacturer to BS & EU standard, The fittings is made up by hand of a 15mm compression fitting and a 16mm nut and insert. " So, are 15mm push-fit also suitable for this task? I'm confused as there don't seem to be a lot of 'native' 16mm elbows/fittings. I did find these (https://underfloorparts.co.uk/product/16-x-16mm-x-1-pr-elbow-pexal-multilayer-pipe-upel16m/) but they're stupidly expensive!

Ahh….so 16mm fittings do exist! I’ll try my local plumbers merchants next week. im not ready for the manifold yet and I’m happy to take the hit on the fittings. Self-building is stressful enough without trying to rush too many things before you’re ready. I’m learning that a more “que sera sera” attitude is healthier but does lead to a slower build!

I want to fill all the loops with water. so I was thinking of hose pipe in to the first pipe and then elbow to elbow across all the other pipes with a pressure gauge on the last pipe. I have 7 loops so that would be 12 elbows. once the screed has been poured and gone off they can be removed and the ufh pipes eventually fitted to a manifold.

@Nickfromwales (or anyone else that can answer this!) I know this is an old thread but I am nearly finished with our UFH pipes in the basement and I am going to fill them with water and am looking to buy the 16mm elbows for our 16mm pipe from Wunda. but, am I being stupid, it looks like all the push-fit elbows at Screwfix are for 15mm pipe. like this https://www.screwfix.com/p/jg-speedfit-plastic-push-fit-equal-90-elbow-15mm/97179 is this what I want or are there really 16mm elbows that would be more suitable? obviously there are plumbers merchants near me and I could go in and ask but I'm not sure I want to be laughed at while also being sold a left-handed screw driver and a skirting board ladder.

I can't recommend highly enough the slates we bought. After lots of research including a phone call to the owner of the company I found out that they come from the same quarries as the CUPA slates but are a LOT cheaper. They were the Mont Azul Lombeiro slates which are exclusive to Jewsons. I've attached the data sheet I was sent by the guy I spoke to. I had another builders merchant come to site and he was very impressed with the quality of the slates (I believe his words were "Jewsons are on to a winner there") and our roofer said that they were great. needed very little grading as they were very consistent thicknesses. check them out. I am one happy customer. my next blog will be about our roof so I'll go into more detail and have some photos when that is written. although, after writing all of that, I notice that you're after more of a matte black slate! doh! Lombeiro MA 12 Mont Azul Intro copy 2020.pdf

we bought a RAL colour card/chart booklet thingy when choosing colours for things. it cost around £12 from Amazon and has come in quite handy as we can compare colours to come up with a palette.

there's always the option to put these drawings on hold and go and find another architect to get basic concept drawings done. shouldn't cost too much and might be cheaper than multiple iterations of redesigning this one?

thanks Craig. I was thinking of contacting you anyway but thought you only did triple glazed but looking at your website again I see that Zyle Fenster offer double glazed units. I've back to back meetings today so I'll give you a ring next week sometime to discuss options with you if that's ok.

Greetings to my Scottish brethren, I am in need of assistance. my brother had a stroke quite a few years ago and was lucky to survive. he has very bad aphasia and, because of that, struggles to communicate with people. he has moved to Perth and has bought was he believes is his final home. it is cold and leaky and in need of some new windows and EWI. first to be fixed is the windows and doors. he is getting quotes and after speaking to neighbours he seems to be getting the impression that the window companies are taking advantage of his disability and giving high quotes. now, this might not be the case and I've told him to get more quotes so he can compare but I was just wondering if anyone in that area of Scotland could highly recommend a quality window/door company/fitter that won't take the pi$$. I'm hoping that he's just a bit paranoid and the quotes he's got are legitimate but it's hard for me as I live so far away to be of any real assistance here. hence the request for help. After the windows are done I can broach the subject of EWI which I believe there are still grants for in Scotland. if someone knows of a company that will do both windows/doors and external wall insulation (some form of green energy consultancy or the like I guess) then I'll also take those recommendations. many thanks in advance.

I've no idea but, for the cost of a few extra blocks, why even consider the second option? a garden room may now only be an office but it's the sort of space that could easily be turned into a gym which would have heavy equipment and so might as well plan for something like that now. very hard to retrofit later!

I paid £9.16 I think it was for a 32m roll at Amazon. ended up using 3 1/2 rolls!

this week I learnt that not all duct tapes are made equal. trying to stick DPM to concrete and dense concrete blocks turned out to be harder than I anticipated. firstly a coat of diluted PVA was applied when it was noticed the duct tape just fell off. then the 'normal' duct tape would stick to the concrete as it was nice and smooth but struggled on the concrete blocks as they're rough. a quick Google later and I discovered that Gorilla Tape is the stuff and even stuck to the rough concrete blocks. job done. it is bloody expensive though.