Thorfun

It’s only a sort drop in to the basement, maybe 600mm, 800mm at most where the waste pipe changes to 50mm pipe for the run to the soil pipe.

Tbh, I can’t smell it! The wife just says “coming from the sink”. I’ll ask to her to be more specific and also nose around under the sink to try and isolate it.

I’ve thought about Starlink but at £75/month it is expensive and after 2.5 years of Starlink we’d have paid off the OR bill. So it doesn’t make financial sense. if we could rely on 4G then that would/could be an option but we can’t so it isn’t! just going to have to foot the bill I guess but I’ll try and negotiate with OR first.

just ran this over WiFi. Think I might send it to OR as evidence we barely scrape USO!!

Yep. Only relatively decent signal here is Vodafone and last speed test was 30Mbps download and 2Mbps upload

Interesting. I’ll take a look (and smell) when I can.

Thanks for this. Can’t look in to it now and back to work tomorrow but I’ll try and take a look soon and compare my installation to the instructions. will report back my findings

No Giganet or CityFibre or Virgin we need a new pole as I don’t want the cable attached to the house. (Also don’t want an aerial attached to the house to boost 4G) I was told back in 2020 when NewSites first came and surveyed that we could get a new pole for free. I guess USO has changed things.

yep. we have a Quooker and a Cube. I fitted it myself so there's no chance it's wrong. 🤣

nope. no AAV. the waste goes through the back of the cupboard then down in to the basement where it eventually joins up to the soil pipe.

plugged. she's tried cleaning but we can't use bleach due to the STP. also we've not been living here that long

I can’t have reliable video calls when wfh. As far as I’m concerned it’s not fast enough. But obviously everyone has different needs.

those that have read my diy plumbing thread know that I am now an expert at all things plumbing so imagine my shock when SWMBO tells me that there's a bad smell coming from the kitchen sink and what am I going to do about it. my first thing to check is the under sink plumbing. here's a photo: can anyone notice anything obvious that might contribute to a smell or the ability to hinder a smell? the only thing I can think of is the trap isn't doing it's job and I need another/better one?

greetings. long story short, we've had a survey by Openreach for a new connection and the CP (communications provider) have told me that there are excess charges to pay. I phoned Openreach New Sites team to query the costs and I was told that my survey was marked non-USO and therefore doesn't qualify for the £3400 of costs covered by OR. I am looking to phone OR again next week to get some clarification as I'm wondering if it's because they assume that this is a second line as the old bungalow used to have a line. but I've done quite a bit of reading and it also seems that our new build probably doesn't qualify for USO as we can get 4G here and so can hit the 10Mbps/1Mbps download/upload targets that have been set as a qualification target. so I probably don't have much of a leg to stand on Anyone had any success arguing with OR about the charges? just trying to get some ammunition together before I make the call and then capitulate and pay the excess charges as I don't want to be beholden to Starlink or a rubbish 30Mbps 4G connection for the rest of my life in this house.

We installed a 5000l tanks and had toilets and washing machine running on it. Cisterns were brown with tannins and had an issue with one toilet ( probably unique to our build though) so I plumbed in a bypass to the header tank in the loft and just run off mains water now. But it’s all still plumbed in if I ever want to go back to using rainwater. Probably won’t though. so I guess it was a waste but at the time of planning it it seemed like a good idea and it probably helped us get through the water calculations etc but I wouldn’t do it again if I didn’t have to.

that's exactly what i mean and we did. so the exhaust and intake external holes were sealed using airtight membrane rather than a plastic bag. i would've through that small amounts of air might penetrate a plastic bag? also potentially prone to ripping? i just didn't want any potential leakage during the test is all.

i sealed ours up with airtight membrane and tape!

again i agree! all my service cavity battens are screwed through our Intello Plus and so there are a lot of screw penetrations.

+1. 1.56 isn't poor! just compared to some on here and i guess it's poor if aiming for 0.6ACH but it's all relative. we got a score of 1ACH and it was my target so i was happy. i probably could've done more but life's too short for me to worry about the small-ish difference it would've made getting it down further.

gypliner system is very easy. but as i have a need to know why to do things and to make sure i'm not making mistakes i tend to ask lots of questions (hence the recent threads!) but if i can do it then anyone can. i do have one wall i need to dot and dab though so i will attempt it at some point.

we had a great experience with Norrsken (and still are some 2 years after installation). lovely windows and installation managed by them too so all under one roof.

for me the best tool for dot and dab was to use metal framing. 🤣 for some reason i don't want to attempt dot and dab and would rather spend the money and time metal framing. yes, i am an idiot i know.

thank you for confirming this. I've only got 105mm from the right hand side. 😢

nice! i lived in Epsom and Ewell most of my life before i had to head south to get more for my money. we have a basement. built it using RC waterproof concrete with an external waterproof membrane and surrounded by and sat on 200mm EPS. I put it up on a blog here if you're interested.

oh wait. for question 2 above i might have found the answer. i see this for door and window openings in the gyplyner single whitebook entry so i guess a follow up question is will that be enough for the double width opening i have? it will be more than the 600mm centers specified. one solution would be to fit some timber in the steel and attach more GL1 studs to make it 600 centers? actually, that would also be required for a standard door opening to fit a 33" door, right? as that opening is 900mm. so to maintain the 600mm centers max extra studs will need to be fitted above the doorway openings?