Onoff

Almost certainly printable. The thing with drilling 3d printed parts is that, in essence, holes have a limited area of "solid" reinforcement around them. The "skin" of the print is similarly solid but the rest is an infill, like a honeycomb. Thus it's no use printing at 6mm ID then hoping to drill out to 8mm later...you'll be into the infill. Best to print as near as to the shaft size.

Cor it's well posh here!

Try Selfridge's. Make sure the wine boxes will fit whatever you get.

I'm going to snip of the coir rope tails at the bottom, pare into little strands and pile at the base of each plant.

Nice, your foilaige is much denser than mine by the looks of it. 1100mm is my tallest plant here out of the 50. 48 out of 50 are climbing, some I helped along the way by pointing/twisting the stem at/around the coir rope. Two show no inclination to climb, if anything they're spreading sideways. Presumably the tall one is trying to escape the slugs! I've been reading human hair is supposed to deter slugs and snails. Pity I've just been clippered.

Noticed the beans on the frame getting a bit holey. I refilled the beer traps last night. Went out just now with the head torch. Must have picked up 50 slugs on and around them. The ring of ash seemed to be being bypassed, maybe where I watered everything earlier it made it more passable. Ah well, it was an interesting experiment whilst it lasted. At this rate I'll have nothing left.

My lad will have a go of course. Elsewhere "we", that's me and nerds from another herd, are on the brink of investment casting in brass from an original 3D print so that's (brass impeller) a possibility for the future.

...may have had a little drinky but you get the drift. 45deg or larger is good. Could print it standing up with no supports and no sharp corners to create turbulence...

3d print conical reducers. Easy.

This shows the concept of square washers from when I built the kids tree house. Coach bolts, in this case bright zinc plated (BZP) go through the square washers. The nuts on the back are covered by plastic covers.

No, just several kinds of special! Once again, same drawing as before: The spacer projects slightly beyond the highest peak in the render. Not drawn too clearly but I assumed you'd grasp the idea. I'm doing these fag packet sketches on the fly with a Sharpie. A big square washer sits over the M12 stud and against the end of the stainless spacer. Ideally both spacer, stud and washer are stainless steel as you won't get to them again. The ledger plate sits over the stud against the square washer. Another big square washer, spring washer (to lock the nut) and nut secure the ledger. The square washers spread the point load over the timber faces - normal, little round washers would dig in to the timber face. They also help stop "rocking" a bit. The loads are thus transmitted to the blockwork not the render. You'll want to seal up where the spacers penetrate the render, with silicone. Same when you put the first square washer on. Squidge some silicone around where the stud comes out of the spacer then put the square washer on. I don't think I could work with special children and that's from a parent who has one 😂

Give me strength! I can do lots of either tube I may not be able to 13 of either square washer. 10 yes, for certain.

OK, tube spacers no issue. The flat washers. Just realised I used the 5mm plate to make lintels for the gate pillars. Think there's more somewhere but where... With what I have to hand I can do: 10 off - 30x30x5. Grade 316. 10 off - 70x70x2 . I think Grade 304. 14mm hole in the centre of each. They'll be cut square enough and de-burred. Which ones?

I meant more suckers. Some glass lifters have the option for more, to be able to lift heavier / bigger panels.

Two schools of thought, a bigger gap will drain, get air to the back of the timber etc. Too tight might encourage say wasps and or get full of damp retaining crap. I'll cut the tubes to whatever you want.

So how many studs does he need in total? I've some stainless flat bar here. I could knock up some square washers at least for the rear, between spacer and ledger.

Mice is all ours will catch! Amazed it can move that fast tbh:

So is it 40/50/60mm spacers if 2" high "waves"? Could print some in PETG...

The conduit spacers keep the back of the ledger away from the wavy wall face. As long as you keep the drill reasonably on the level when you drill it'll all work out. The big square washers go between the end of the conduit and wall side of the ledger. That'll help stop any "rock". Tbh the ledger will naturally "bend" vertical. I'd pre drill the cut to length ledger with 14mm holes for the M12 studs. (You need to work the spacings out so they miss your 150x50 joists). I'd then prop the ledger up on some timbers and get it dead level. Drill through the ledger with a 14mm masonry bit just to mark the wall. Take the ledger down and drill thru your render with a sacrificial 20mm spade bit . Drill into the block with a 14mm masonry bit, go 80mm deep. Use a puffer to clean the holes out. Pump resin into the 80mm hole, push the M12 stainless stud in and slip in the 19mm OD X 40mm long stainless spacer. (I'll pre cut these here for you and post if you want). Leave for the resin to set. At this point I'd go around the spacer where it projects out of the render with say CT1. Slip on square washers over the stud, against the spacer then put the ledger on. You'll likely need help to do that. You might need to open up the odd hole in the ledger.

He's already got the neighbours complaining he attracts rats. Just slings his food scraps and tea bags out the bag door into the concrete!

I see joist hangers have been advocated. Quick and easy. Me being me.....I'd probably get the router out do through housings and glue and screw, literally make a ladder beam. Might even do stop housings and have the wall plate and front one a bit deeper...

Then @PeterW's idea for building the front legs on the floor then pushing / pulling up vertical: You could do it with a mate or even a rope from an upstairs window.

Something like this for the wall plate detail:

A freestanding step, he'll likely shuffle, wedge his foot under in then fall upending that and buggering his ankle. It'll work something on the lines of a grab handle on the wall between frame and external socket. With help he lifts one foot over the threshold onto the new plinth. Then he grabs the new handrail, shuffles and puts a foot onto the ground. Rough thoughts are this at the moment (quick sketch with a Sharpie in a newspaper). Stainless studs resin'd into the existing concrete. Existing concrete scabbled and primed with SBR. Step cast. He's a grabber when he falls so will take anything nearby with him. Similarly he will grab anything to haul himself back up. That handrail has got to be as strong as, maybe even one either side. I'll have to have a rummage as to what Tube Clamp fittings I have. One of his ailments is postural hypotension. This coupled with hearing / balance issues means he's very unsteady going from one "level" to another. Just the act of going up/down a step height can end in disaster. Of course, with the time I take to do anything this could all be moot... 😉

My Dad is pretty much housebound and only able to walk short distances. Even negotiating a step is a mission. Various mobility issues! He can "walk" but with a frame etc. My brother has had the idea to put a step just outside the back door to halve the height of the step out from the kitchen. This so Dad can "sit out the back for a bit". Now the ground height to damp course has always been a bit compromised but seeming never caused issues. From the concrete to underside of step is 130/140mm. The boiler pipe runs under the step too. My brother's idea was to cast a plinth against the house. I said bad idea ref the damp course etc. My thoughts were cast it away from the step a tad. I'd wire brush / clean then SBR the existing concrete. Need also to incorporate a grab rail. Similar to the reflection in the first photo of one I did him years ago. Thoughts? Cheers