Onoff

With a ring the load is in effect shared by the two legs going back to the cu. Think what happens when say one leg goes open circuit - all the load could be on one possibly now undersize cable leg. Every socket might still work until something melts.....or worse! Thinking about high load areas like the kitchen you might be better running a 32A radial (or two) in 4mm. It might serve to run 20A radial to low load areas like bedrooms for example. Testing is easier on radials too. Be aware some socket makes don't like accepting 4mm cables (tbh some struggle with 3x 2.5mm).

Hello you! Yep I've been here a while now (and eBuild before) all down to PD! (He's on a MASSIVE commission btw . As for inane building questions you've a long way to go to catch me up I reckon! Collective knowledge on here is great. A bit gutting when you realise you could have done such and such building job so much better though! It's not all the Grand Designs brigade at all they'll help all sorts. A few Pi & Linux fans about. There's some really clever PLUMBERS here too and a blinding roofer called ProDave!

If you want a taster of simple 2D CAD I've done a very short few page guide as a PDF using the completely free Draftsight program. PM me an email address or maybe one of the mods here can make it a sticky available for download?

AutoCAD is just a big, blank piece of paper tbh. You draw everything at full size.....even if it's an aircraft carrier! You can download most fittings as pre done drawings tbh but it keeps my hand in. These were just quick, fag packet realisations tbh. They're near enough. A lot of people knock Acad but it's what I trained on. You could even plot your building plot gradients, heights and create a 3D releif. I think it's pretty intuitive tbh. It's only lines and curves after all. EDIT: Tbh I came up through AutoCAD LT98 then LT2000. Did a couple of years night school C&G then on full version 2000 & 2000i. Making the jump to 2010 was (is still) a steep learning curve for me. I even use it in "classic" mode. Main issue I'm having at the mo is creating legible JPEGS for inclusion in posts here. Really I want black backgrounds in my pics so the component colours stand out.

Each fitting is physically measured and drawn using AutoCAD 2010. Each one takes a few minutes. To do them in 3D takes longer.

It's called "Mauser Vernier Caliper V1.0".....

This works..... Puts the outside tap about 2' above the eventual path level.

Cheers. I meant 22mm thinking about it! It's 22mm above the stop cock. I'm just not used to having fittings so close to each other! I might turn the outside tap feed so it goes up the side of the cistern then out the wall with a saddle bend to cross the feed to the cistern & basin (not shown). It'd put the outside tap at a more convenient height then.

Tundish? Getting there figuring all this tight space out. Still like the idea of the outside tap at "full" available mains pressure. Showing below the MDPE stop cock 50mm above the floor then a Yorkshire T coming off to a Pegler isolating valve and out though the wall to the outside tap. This will however sit it just above the angled soil pipe and I think only about 8" up from the DPC so about 350mm off the ground. That soil could later go vertical down outside on the wall. Then PRV above the T. I've now to add another T above the PRV to tap off a line for the feed to the bottom fed cistern and along the bottom to the basin. BUT is's tight for vertical height Any hard and fast rule about butting compression fittings together i.e. little if any copper showing? Thinking to do away with the solder T after the MDPE stop cock and use a compression T to feed the Pegler isolator / outside tap. I could then get rid of the 25mm bits of copper either side of the Yorkshire.

Erm.....is some of that in Welsh? Lots of Googling now, G3, D2, TPRV...multiblock...but I'm OK with NRV & UVC!

I'll often CAD it & THEN draw it physically on a board/big piece of card! All a bit tight next to this existing cistern. Showing what I think are some minimum spacings between fittings. I suppose I could turn the PRV thru 90deg? Its where to put the outside tap..... Maybe thinking about this the WRONG way. If later on this cistern comes out I need to think about just getting the MDPE connected even if a bit rough. I guess I could even feed the cistern and basin via a flexi for now?

If I methodically CAD everything maybe even beyond:

Cheers for that, spot on!

Evening, AutoCAD 2010 running on 32-bit Win 7. As per the attached screen shot the Command Line (dragged centre) is odd. For a start it's now black and just has a flashing cursor in it. As you type the cursor moves but you can's see any text. Not sure what I've done wrong! Any ideas?

I can't see her not wanting this lot boxed in! Wonder if its worth chucking in that spare Geberit wall frame and getting a wall hung WC. Working round this one I'm having to virtually hug it, and you realise how often kids "miss"!

A flaw in the plan maybe! The tee off to the outside tap, put before the PRV to allow full mains pressure, is proposed to also feed the downstairs WC and cold to the basin there. Do I really want them at full, unadulterated mains pressure which is circa 9 bar?

Purging the 25mm pipe...a thought... At the mo the excess is coiled up as shown above. I was thinking to first cut it long enough to poke out of the WC window. If I then turn on the stop cock at the gate it should clean out the pipe? I can then cut back further and fit everything inc the PRV which shouldn't get contaminated by any crud in the pipe. Saying that I've been super careful about leaving the yellow caps on the MDPE until the last minute.

Compression it is then. Just waiting for the moaning to start ref the visuals on the PRV etc! Committed the cardinal sin earlier and LOST the draw cord! The vacuum and plastic bag trick sorted it though. Duct now all in and covered with a bit of sharp sand / ballast where I ran out: A pig getting a 1m length of lagging over the MDPE and down the duct as there's a bend. Goes in about 750mm which will have to do. Was going to push it in a couple of inches into the duct and foam?

So, inside now, debating a 22/22/15 compression T with the drain valve in as opposed to a solder ring fitting. Thinking it'll be easier when I come to redo the mains throughout in 22mm: ?

As an aside to the thread: Note how the earth rod in Barney12's link is 5/8" diameter and that it is THREADED. The 3/8" dia ones are not threaded so you can't couple them to make a longer rod which can be useful to get your earth electrode resistance (RA) down. Of course the 5/8" can be a bit harder to bang in but then they're less "bendy" when doing so. The 5/8" one has obviously more surface area in contact with the ground anyway for starters!

One end on and neat! Need to make some sort of an enclosure around this for easy acess / digging if I need to get to it later. Thinking a cut down blue barrel? The one pita is that between the above isolator and the stop cock / meter point at the roadside it's still the old iron pipe - about 10' or so. The oddity is that that's supposedly the water companies responsibility as we originally had the meter in the white tube above. Sod's Law it'll leak there and I'll have to get them in! Cue their argument it's after their meter so it's mine!

I put some of that yellow, foam, scaffolding protection (like pipe insulation) on a couple of poles in the garden (kid's treehouse) and the birds had a right old go at it BUT only on the horizontal sections where I guess they can perch. Most external pipe lagging I see on commercial roofs has like a "zinc" shell over it. You could roll some gauze like I just did for where my 63mm duct comes up through the suspended floor with the mains water pipe in: I was told recently of an EPDM roof job on a school where birds had destroyed it. Seems that they drink from any pooled water and eventually damage the roof. They then go mad for the PIR insulation. Something I think to do with it aiding their digestion like grit does naturally. Or maybe it's like humans with bubblewrap! (I considered running trace heating up the drive set at the same width as the car wheels.....)

Slightly off track but is that the way it's done normally ref running pipes in the floor? I mean the way the PIR has been roughly channelled then normal pipe insulation used? My goto not knowing otherwise was to carefully V everything and replace when the pipes were in then foil tape over the top:

I had to remind myself I'd bought from Wickes and NOT Seconds & Co such was the variance on thickness of some 50mm Celotex I bought. It was bloody awful. Well over / under 50mm in the same board!

Ta. The connection onto the stop cock came undone a treat. All in good nick so will re-use. Duct laid in half the trench with some excess. Also brought under and up through the hole drilled in the footings. I went with a rolled bit of galv mesh to protect the duct within the suspended floor. Hopefully I won't need to get there again until I take the hall and adjacent bedroom floor up and make back into one room with en suite. One day it will all be a distant memory!