Onoff

Just reading in an old DIY manual that if doing a new pot you would support with "pieces of slate" to sit the new pot on whilst the mortar goes off - obviously you leave a round'ish hole in the middle! As I said above I've seen steel / iron plates in place of slate. PM me your email please and I'll send you something on it.

I always use Royal Mail or Hermes for my yellow cake uranium. Cake isn't on the prohibited list see! FFS it's A JOKE! Gotta go I can hear the sound of black helicopt...

Now THIS is a cool home made tool for forming short tees and saving on fittings. I can't for the life of me see how it works though! How does the J not just pull through? Surely it needs to rotate to form the cylindrical female stub? http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/SpaceHeating/KenSolShed/TeePuller.htm

Started on the CADCAN! (As opposed to CADCAM....) Who knew? When you stack 150mm high 440ml Fosters cans you lose 2mm as they interlock:

DO IT! It's what CAD was invented for: Boring is also available: @Alexphd1, pm me your email I've some good stuff on the manufacture of steel staircases (I know you want wood treads) but it gives good info ref side angles that can be transposed.

3 Ford Capris in various unfinished states and a daily Ford Focus.....I've heard the phrase but never heeded it! The UVC/TS thing.....I can't feed home brew solar thermal into a UVC can I?

Vague recollection if was to run two showers, one in the "ongoing" bathroom and the other in the existing en suite... Forgot I had it until the other day.

Get cutting then I would. I've made many a timber saw guide for doing exactly this with Celcon blocks.

You've tried here? https://stowellconcrete.co.uk/concrete-soap-bar-blocks/

Funnily enough.....there was here an old NewTeam (NT35?) shower pump that eventually failed. I searched high and low for a replacement and eventually fitted this newer NewTeam one. It works OK. Main reason for choosing this was it wants 25gal min cold water tank. You sometimes have to hold the handset by your feet to get the pump to kick in, sometimes not. It takes an age for the hot to come through because of the run. Somewhere along the line I picked this one up but have never used it!

You've done this before haven't you?

Got it. Now from somewhere do I recall two fill points are suggested for a big long tank to prevent stagnation or something? Or is is fill one end/take off the opposite end? In my case the fill and take off would have to be one end only because of access. I'd slide it into the ridge space and only see the end.

You're going to have to expand on the why not (ref the fill valve) and why one might (ref the o'flow pipe)!

That's where my cold water tank is, in the ridge of the hip end above the height of the dormer roof. Just behind where the yellow ladder wheels are: But it's as I say only 25gallon. Have considered a long coffin type maybe projecting into the ridge above the dormer to increase head / capacity.

Lidl have some 150mm Parkside circular saw blades for £3.99. 18 or 24T, 20mm bore. 1.6mm thick though which is something to watch if the riving knife on your saw is thicker (say 2mm) as you'll start to cut and the saw will just jam!

I've got old foundations to contend with too! What looked just a boggy bit of ground was in fact waterlogged due to the footings of some old structure. Got to v.careful so as not to disturb the clay drains running through. Judging by how solid they are I'm sure they were built by the Germans who did the Jersey fortifications! I read somewhere they were forced to add coal ash/waste to their concrete mix due to supply issues and it turned out super strong!

A bit of an aside but if anyone is ever stuck for a like for like breaker for a consumer unit (other than asking around) then try these people: http://www.reconelectrical.co.uk/reconditioned-circuit-breakers.html

I looked at a few chimney pots expecting them to have like a shoulder to sit in the hole in those Supreme Chimney Caps...but none did. If anything they were often tapered. I figured they could just fall through?

I will look at my clay/flint ground with a new found enthusiasm on the basis it's not as bad as YOURS! (Still a bitch without a digger!)

This seems a more appropriate avatar:

Sorry, I have no idea. A cleverer person will be along shortly!

So as not to take the UVC thread off thread..... This beast of a breaker is a Crabtree C50. "C50" was just the style, nothing to do with the amperage. This one is 5A. Another oddity is that its a "Type 2", none of your Type B, C or D nonsense. They had different time/current curve characteristics. Here's a bit about them: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/3.6.4.htm In an old college book somewhere I've an cutaway diagram of the insides of one of these exact units. Shows all the working parts and it's actually very good for showing how an mcb protects against both overload or a short circuit. You can pretty much "see" where the electricity goes.....tbh you could nigh on climb in! Made In England!

Cheers. Vindication at last! I'd still though have an issue as the CWS tank is so small. At the mo when filling the (huge) bath and someone's had / having a shower I can run the 25gal CWS tank dry. You can't just open the taps with gay abandon but are on edge listening for the gurgling of pipes running dry! Of course then there's no head left to act on the hot in the cylinder so that stops as well. The plumbing here is like somebody has dropped a stack of copper from a great height. The pipes from the shower pump next to the cylinder for instance go over the top of the dormer in the ceiling. The pipes for DHW go from the cylinder AROUND the perimeter of the dormer in the uninsulated crawl space. It's loss after loss. Really it needs a service duct through the upstairs floor so I get the shortest distance between two points for everything.

Said the voice of reason shaking his head and wondering why he bothers...

It's OK it has got a single up front RCD! Not at all inconvenient! .....which was as far as I got with upgrading it all. Keep putting it off changing it as I want to move the board position...which means bricking a door up.....and cutting through for another door. My chippy mate used the phrase "mechanics car"... Has to happen soon though.