Onoff

Top left corner of the pallets, you can see the one of the M10 bolts and the 50x50 square, M10 galv washer used to secure the corner together. Before putting the next level of pallets on, you slip in "uprights" the same width as the existing pallet uprights. Gave them sticking up and screw to them through the top and bottom pallet.

Yes, I'm lucky to have lots of them about that length. Only thing is my ones are black. They were used to secure cable drums together. If I didn't have these I'd buy the cheapest, zinc plated studding.

Bet that's a first ever sentence on any forum, anywhere! 😂

Screwed together. I've a stock of low grade, M10, nuts and long bolts here. It's what I'll use. Covered in grease probably.

I have used BT1 before but think it's a bit more "permanent" than ordinary silicone, as in it has good adhesive properties like CT1 but with an added fungicide or something. The white BT1 isn't supposed to yellow either like the white CT1 does. I wonder how easy BT1 is to remove/renew... For a white, non yellowing silicone I really like Forever White which I used in the above pictures. The grey was Mapei. Ref gaps, what I did, following sage* advice on here, was brought my wall tiles down with a nom 1mm gap to the floor. It's pretty easy to do and get right to end up with this: You place your bottom tile like this and cut allowing for the grout line. When you flip it over, the cut edge is sitting on the 1mm packs. You force clear CT1 into the 1mm gap and tool it flush. When set go over with a cosmetic silicone of your choice. * Aka @Nickfromwales 👍

Btw, you want to aim for no more than 5mm silicone bead of silicone if you can. When I say 5mm as in using a "5mm" tool. Buy the Fugi Cramer silicone tooling kit. It allows even a novice (like me) to get excellent results. You do not need soapy water or a wet finger!

Yes, something like this: When the silicone gets grubby, renew it. How far off the tray do your tiles finish out of interest?

Just to add, with 3 short rods slung in (and I do mean slung in, I was going to tidy it up but will just remove them if I go with the plate) I'm seeing 13.3 ohms earth loop impedance and 17A pfc (L - PE) to earth. Short video:

All those years of self abuse catching up with you?

Thanks. This too refers to the plate being set vertical but at a lesser depth than your link suggests. https://www.electrical-installation.org/enwiki/Installation_and_measurements_of_earth_electrodes

I'm trying here to improve my TT earthing arrangement. Soil isn't the best, this topsoil, heavy clay chalk. Every layer scattered with copious large flints. There was an old 3/8" dia 4' rod in. Replaced with a new 5/8" 4' rod and remade all the connections. Made naff all difference. I've now got 3 5/8", 4' rods in, spaced <1 rod's depth between each. I've tried coupling extra rods on in all 3 positions but I'm consistently hitting something 4" down so guessing that much be the chalk layer. Even tried an SDS adapter to hammer them in. The reading is better with 3 rods but it's messy! I have now a 600x600mm ex DNO copper earth plate here that I'm going to bury. Came from someone's farm where they had an 11kVA trannie on two poles and the DNO moved it/the poles leaving the plate in the ground with the wire cut off. Main question is should I bury it horizontal or vertical? Hopefully this weekend I'll get a hole dug and see exactly what I have ground wise.

Been making these for a mate who has Parkside tools and batteries but wants to power the odd Fakita tool. A couple of types off of Thingiverse. One that allows swapping between Makita or Parkside batteries, then a second quite clever one that replaces the Makita battery connection plate in the tool so you can only ever use Parkside batteries: The "permanent" one. A real easy print. Pre removing the supports: It's designed to go into a real Makita. In effect it's the top of a Makita battery with Parkside battery fitment. No need either for complicated battery tabs, it just uses ordinary 1/4" male spade crimps. Here fitted to a Fakita 4" chainsaw, you can see it's a tad too wide to close the two halves of the case up: On my mate's 10/12" Fakita chainsaw, a different make to mine), it's even worse: Fixed it now, just reduced the width in CAD.

Tbf everything gets lower.

Morlocks/Eloi 😬

If cat's can get in then so likely can foxes. That's the last thing you want!

Did you find their heat loss calcs?

Mice will get through a hole the size of a pencil.

Round where I live it was the done thing to put a layer of broken glass on the dirt before any concrete slab was laid. This to deter the rats from burrowing up through the concrete!

It was intentional the flint mortar being a different colour. I didn't want the traditional "lime" white prevalent locally here but wanted a nod to it. The flint mortar has the addition of some lime for plasticity along with being wetted with the Everbuild 202 mix. I've then sprayed about 3 coats of concrete sealer over the complete pillar, bricks and all. Looks really good imo and brings out the black in the flints.

That was 4:1 using bagged builders sand from Wickes. The trouble is the sand colour will like change according to regional variations, what quarry it comes from etc. Then the same cement as above. Mixed with Everbuild 202 to the ratio on the tub label. https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-202-integral-liquid-waterproofer/p80460?

I didn't want white or yellow. My mix was 3 builders sand 1 sharp sand 1 lime 1 OPC.

They'll likely be getting in through those old air bricks! A mouse can get through a pencil sized hole.

Erm, no I haven't used any paving, only ever built sheds on slabs. I just sketched it as you said that's the way you want to go. 3 2" council slabs would raise you 6" if you could get them for nothing/cheap. Or 140mm 7N dense concrete blocks. Cast your own plinths from knocked up timber boxes. Loads of options.

Quick, fag packet thoughts: Thinking leave the void but use a strip of rodent mesh around the perimeter. You could over clad with say uPVC or asbestolux type cement board...paint it black...