Onoff

Erm...Nick, Dave, Nick, Nick again, various Geberit videos etc.

I find it best to wait until someone else has worked with a lighting designer...then COPY them!

For my mist coat (s) on the bathroom ceiling and half a wall I'm going to just use whatever crap emulsion that's lying around here I've decided. If it needs more than one mist then so be it. I'll then buy if necessary a decent quality white for "kitchens & bathrooms" for the ceiling. SWMBO can choose the colour for the half wall later at her leisure once the tiles are done.

Is it worth buying paint specific for new plaster? Like this, gets good reviews: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-trade-bare-plaster-paint-brilliant-white-10ltr/51004

I was thinking a light key then mist coat first on my ceiling? Thinking as in the bathroom the top coat needs to be something special? Sorry @Redoctober hijacking your thread!

+1 on this. Can I paint the bathroom ceiling this weekend?

Just edited my response.

If it's timber I'd use your stuff as I think it's better for getting in the grain. If upvc then mitre bond imho. I think that's a 30mm white upvc trim in my photo...6mm thick I think. What colour's your Evo stuff? Main consideration is it doesn't ooze out and spoil your frame or hold the trim off the frame so you see a shadow gap. This was the edge sealant I used. Some advocate using it as the adhesive too: https://www.screwfix.com/p/sika-sika-plastix-upvc-sealant-white-300ml/7454P?

Thousands of window and kitchen fitters can't be wrong? Less messy than that Evo stuff I'd say...thinner bond too. Just seen the drying time on your one. Totally different stuff/application. With mitre bond you can assemble a complicated, cranked shape kitchen cornice in seconds on the bench and lift up into position. Fix and "flex" it into position as you go round putting a couple of screws in.

Was that for the YMCA gig?

You can sometimes find that years of adjusting mean that some cupboard door screws are loose and the door or carcass material had disintegrated around the screw. You'll need to carefully repair with something that'll take the screw again. I used some chopped fibreglass on one before. Not pretty but if you're painting...

Nyotaimori? Or was that one of the Wombles?

I was going to make a dragon/gargoyle/Alien Queen skeleton out of the stuff I've left over them foam it, carve it and GRP. To sit atop my gate pillars.....

I might have an old flow switch off of a NewTeam shower somewhere... Think it's 15mm though...come to think of it it might be for 24vdc. Edit: Found it:

I've got to tank things first I know but it might not be long before I start tiling! My chippy mate gave me this tile cutter so long ago I can't remember whether it came with a water tray which I assume it needs? I'll have to take another look in the garage from where I've just dug this out. I remember Ferm being Screwfix's cheap I brand a few years ago. Question is is it any good for my tiling? Thinking thd rusty blade might stain the tile edge of will that wear off after a few cuts? Cheers.

I first saw window fitters use it. See this bit of trim I've fitted to a freebie 2G door I scored. The trim covers the slightly ragged edge where the walls been cut out for the upvc frame. WITHOUT the trim (bit I'm pointing to) you spray activator up the height of the door. You run a bead of glue up the back of the trim piece and push on. Instantly stuck. @Nickfromwales reckons it for sticking tile trims on too. And kitchen cornice too:

Mitre bond is a 2-part glue and imo far superior to the little tubes/bottles. I've NEVER in my life has any success with traditional one component superglue but the mitre bond is magic. Like this: https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-mitre-adhesive-200ml/41795? Careful that if sticking upvc trim you get one that won't "yellow". I first got the one above then another make...this one I think: https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p47409? Claggy I thought was a term coined by Sarah Millican whuch I'd rather not dwell on!

How about something less chunky...and cheaper! https://www.wholesaledomestic.com/hudson-reed-ultra-thin-fixed-shower-head-head47

Don't forget to tape / cap the ends! Cant remember if I squashed mine flat and duct taped or gun foamed it.

Not my idea. It was Nick or Peter's. In fact I think it was Peter sent me the sensor?

Could you not run your sensor ducts to the furthest possible point they can feasibly go but route them via points where they MIGHT be better. Then, knowing the run length, you can just pull them back as required.

The times I've thought exactly that! Mind there's probably a few on here wish I hadn't!

Should I be trying to leave the window open during the day to help dry this plaster out fully? Not much airflow in the room otherwise, just a few draughts from the holes in the ceiling. I've also left the raised floor in there thinking it'll assist when painting the ceiling. The floor boards are though quite (very?) damp. Maybe take them up and just paint off steps etc? I could then regain use of the bath & clean up the floor then think about tanking...

You're late to the party, some other wag has done than one before I'm sure. Feel free to wade through and find it!

OK. Can the one drain cope with the run off? There's given litres per minute that a certain size rain water outlet can handle. A given roof area requires "X" drainage capability. Was yours properly designed or done ad hoc etc. I've seen roofs leak where the drain can't cope and there's a poor detail where the roof membrane interfaces with the rwo. It can then track miles under the waterproof layer and appear inside the building nowhere near the drain. Or it runs along services in a suspended ceiling etc.