Onoff

Just read this! Standing on the shoulders of giants me! I don't know, I ask. Monkey see / monkey do. I may go off piste on occasion and add my own little twist but I'd be lost without you lot!

Evening, welcome!

The differences between "drills":

Pretty much how I cut pb: I don't have a long on T square like that though!

It's just easier with the extension bit in before the T30 as else you're trying to get a piddly bit in the drill chuck where it can be pushed deeper into the chuck (as you're using it). With the extension bit the T30 can't be pushed in deeper into the extension. Easier also to centre the bit on the screw as it's not hidden by the chuck. Aka you can see what you're doing. Check you get a T30 bit before you leave S'fix! I cut pb with a Stanley knife. More a case of score deep (I do it against a straight edge, snap to fold it, then cut the paper on the back. Clean up the edge / shave a gnats off with a surform. If your battening is accurate you can use tapered edge pb and then tape and fill and NOT get a plasterer in if cost is an issue.

What is the grout & make please?

Charcoal grout didn't get an immediate "Nyet!". "Can you get samples?" However was the question!

Here's a question all in it's own... What colour grout on the floor? SWMBO had always thought white thinking grey will look dirty. She has just asked if anybody on the forum has any thoughts on the subject. Wonders never cease!

First cut EVER with the Rubi Practic cutter for the bit in the corner against the mitre: It didn't break perfectly clean as shown by the offcut below. I had to finish it off on the diamond saw: I'd aimed for a 3mm grout gap between the tile edge and Aqua Panel but didn't quite get that! It's pretty much butt tight against the AP. @Nickfromwales is that a problem? Thinking it needs grout in there / an expansion gap? EDIT: I think the tile didn't break cleanly as I had a tile spacer stuck on the Rubi bed!

I'm quite pleased with that. Going to play with the Rubi cutter now! Falls good: Was aiming for 13-26mm and it's about 18mm. Level not short enough here really but it falls:

How can you see soil, isn't the oversite over the soil? Older properties (like sections of mine) with a suspended timber floor would ensure cross ventilation via air bricks to keep things dry. Also important if there are any dwarf walls supporting say floor joists mid span, that this has a dpc somewhere to protect any timber sitting on it from getting damp.

Still got 'em in my Lidl. So £37.99 all in. 2.0Ah battery btw:

@Hecateh, looks like your older board has been modded to add two RCBOs - the B6 and B20 on the far right with the yellow test buttons. From the left you have the red isolator, that's just a switch. The red things are circuit breakers, a modern "fuse" if you like that should trip in the event of an over current or short circuit. The benefit being you can reset once the fault is fixed whereas a fuse would blow or need rewiring. You do not have any RCDs per se in that board. What you have is the two RCBOs, Residual Current Breakers with Overload. These combine the attributes of a circuit breaker with that of an RCD. They're good in that they protect just that circuit. If there's a fault then only that circuit is affected. In a perfect world every circuit would be on it's own RCBO. No excuse not to on a new build tbh.

There'll be a little test button on the RCD that'll say "Test Monthly" etc. You press it and it should trip every circuit upstream of the RCD. Just because it trips by pressing the button doesn't mean it's safe but it's a reasonable indicator. As the trip is an electro mechanical assembly (coil imbalance picked up by a search coil triggers a solenoid type deal) pressing the button ensures the mechanism is less likely to gum up over time from being static. Of course you will have to go round resetting all your clocks etc! Different from an RCD tester which is a special bit of kit that basically tests how fast the RCD works. Nice explanation and little diagram picked at random: https://www.electricalengineeringtoolbox.com/2016/01/how-residual-current-device-rcd-works.html?m=1

Is this much the same? https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p56163? An extra quid but if I'm passing etc...

Ta. As I say at each "two cut edge butt" one tile is pretty good and the other less so - tb invisible from standing up looking down. That's me trying to save tiles. I have the option, for the sake of 8 tiles to replace the dodgy edge halves with score 'n snapped ones. Would grey "garage" type floor paint applied with an artist's fine brush work? Any particular brand of car spray? Doesn't it come off when you wash the tiles / over time? Lastly, a whetstone, where from? Cheers

Too much reliance on RCD protection imo especially as bonding requirements aren't imo what they used to be.

Or plastering? The majority will say get an expert in!

No! That's a ladies drill for ladies! It has 25Nm of torque which is FA for what he's doing. Completely different tool to the impact driver in my link which quotes 180Nm. Thats proper wrist breaking torque. Your Aldi one...well I'd attach to my old chap just for fun!

Nice! Seen that before! Porcelain though? More forgiving / tougher than these ceramic ones.

If you're not planning on building a "fleet" of decent 18V tools (Makita etc) then Lidl were doing a 20V Parkside impact driver with 2 batteries for a 1/4 of the price of big name kit. The specs look good, reviews too and it has a 3-year g'tee. Keep the receipt, do this job. If it works great if not get your money back. It won't be compatible of course of you buy another make of say cordless drill later on. Old ad but they still have them now and then: https://www.hotukdeals.com/deals/lidl-29th-june-parkside-18v-li-ion-cordless-impact-driver-3999-2231475

Page 3 of the Reviews on Oct 27 2017, says it comes with bit. Or go into Screweys and ask to open the box - they will I'm sure. Or buy the 49mm long one Wiha one in my link above. Or buy the packet of 3 Erbauer brand ones @PeterW refererred to: https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-impact-screwdriver-bits-tx30-x-25mm-pack-of-3/16646 Or one on its own, same make, Wiha as the 49mm long one...but shorter: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-maxxtor-torsion-screwdriver-bit-t30-x-29mm/6581g NB: Wiha is a top quality brand btw. Erbauer is at the cheaper end of things. You've less chance of losing the longer 49mm one of course. Or just believe me it comes with one in the box! If you're ordering for home delivery and you're miles from a Screwfix then you're a bit fooked if you only have the one bit and lose it! Could slow / halt the job rather!

Bit on its own: https://www.screwfix.com/p/wiha-maxxtor-torsion-screwdriver-bit-t30-x-49mm/7540g Comes with the Torx bit req'd - read the reviews etc. https://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-50mm-100-pack/1066H?

It ain't normal measuring like this! T30 measures about 6mm at the base, 5mm at the very tip - sides taper / flare: The "T" size should be stamped on the side of the bit.