Onoff

I have the previous, red line version of this: https://m.clasohlson.com/uk/Cocraft-HL-20-SG-Cross-Line-Laser-Level/41-1267 Think I paid £29 or something silly on clearance. It's great imo.

I so want a digger.

I've got loads of figs coming on the tree my brother wanted rid of a few years back. I think it's done well as its in a sheltered spot.

My mate's old, white 2G, upvc front door (no letterbox) is now my new back door. I got it when he had it and the rest of his white, 2G, upvc doors and windows replaced with white, 2G, upvc doors and windows.

I'd not use any. Got some old stuff here I can't be arsed stripping to weigh in. The missus wanted some copper wire recently to go round pots to try and keep slugs off. Something had happened to the old t&e with the red & black cores sticking to the (white) sheath. Can't remember but one or the other core (red or black) was worse than the other. Plasticiser leeching I guess. On the other hand I pulled some old black rubber sheathed stuff out of the wall outside the new bathroom and it's like new.

Talking to a sparks friend from South Africa. I've never really thought about it before but plenty of countries weren't affected by harmonisation and still use red and black: https://www.livecopper.co.za/collections/flat-twin-earth-cable/products/flat-twin-2-5mm-x-2-core-earth About £60 a roll? That'd go for twice that here on eBay!

Bloody awful things. Can't see how they comply with Part E anyway. I've a couple of DG windows from Wickes. Removing the vents and the "routed" holes in the upvc were just full of plastic swarf. It's the noise that they let through I don't like.

This any good? http://www.stovefittersmanual.co.uk/articles/hearth-regulations/

@zoothorn, I'm going to have to trawl back through the thread but was one of those green/yellow wires you didn't reconnect anywhere a bit thicker than the others and did it go to just above the incoming mains water stop cock? Edit: In this photo: The green/yellow just above the horizontal grey waste pipe that connects under the stop cock, is that connection still in place? It looks as best as I can tell thicker than the others.

Go for it. I presume BC won't be looking at that bit?

Post a picture of your consumer unit and somebody will give you a detailed what's what explanation of the various components. RCD stands for residual current device. If there is a current leakage to earth on a piece of equipment or circuit the idea is the power gets cut. Say your washing machine is happily working away. You've Live and Neutral to the motor and the current flowing is deemed "in balance". The current is going nowhere other than where it should. Then, for whatever reason a pipe splits inside and water is now spraying around the inside of the machine. The case of the machine is metal. If that water comes into contact with a live internal part and the metal case it provides a low resistance path for the current to track down. The risk is you touch something metal that is now live. The rcd detects this leakage and trips before it reaches 30mA.

I was taking the pi$$. Can't recall anyone promising a half arsed attempt with an inch of Celotex would make much difference. He was on about not wanting to lose room space anyway. He just doesn't get the whole a gap is a gap is a gap and air tightness thing. The tiniest gaps left can caused massive cold draughts. I said I put a vcl all round doing mine but that was deemed ott. Here's a suggestion, lay an offcut of Celotex on the floor and stand on it in bare feet. You should feel the warmth. Step onto the cold floor and back into the board. If it feels warmer I wonder if an inch of that with some click together flooring would help? Could miss it out at the door threshold? Of course seal the room up too well and it'll start getting mould spots in the corner without ventilation.

Drawing opened in Draftsight. As an aside the paper size was 420x297 i.e A3. Then used Win 7 Snipping Tool to select on screen: Alt/Ctrl/Print Scrn: Both rubbish imo, just not "crisp" enough and a bit fuzzy! The wire colour text on the 3 port valve is illegible. If I print out on paper it's all perfectly legible. Never used to have these issues with AutoCAD 2000 / 2000i. A much simpler beast (what I was trained on) and more than adequate for my needs than 2010 but the old packages won't run on my 64-bit systems. I may buy the Longbow converter at around £140 to overcome this. I've tried running AutoCAD in XP Mode but it's awful.

How tall are you? Put a few inches of insulation on the floor and shorten the doors!

Have you sealed all the gaps at the pb edges where they join etc? Then If a door way off that kitchen is open to the lobby by the door then all that Celotex will do zilch! Like being in a car in winter and opening one door.

No I'm not! :) I'm talking about these: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/QUE11W.html

WTF do you expect when you've said the area by the back door has draughts etc?

Just make a strong "box". 2"x2" frame clad in ply or even maybe cut up a V grade t&g floorboard that's about 8'x2'. The weight going down through the legs. Sound 'effin dangerous having the microwave up so high for when getting hot liquid stuff out...but if you're happy. I make the odd bit of stuff like this from old rubbish. A bedside laptop table for my boy from MDF, sits on an old chair base: My lad had a really cramed uni flat so I knocked up a "box" to raise the microwave up. Made from a 22mm t&g chipboard floorboard. (In the end it never actually got fitted but hey ho). Let's face it it ain't rocket science what you want, it's a box/table!

Call that dragging things out? Lightweight! :)

Has anyone used the non dimming Quinetic switches? Just wondering if they spring return like the dimmer switch (in my video clip above) or stay in the up/down position. (Might have an obscure use for the tech at work). Cheers

Investing in some shims would be a good idea maybe? https://www.screwfix.com/p/broadfix-assorted-plastic-shims-medium-100-pcs/99189?

I tried Snipping Tool in Windows 7. I just drew rhe rectangle around my electrical drawing and saved it. The resolution on the resulting JPEG was dire! Can you somehow improve the capture resolution?

Boiler fires up every time. Looking at the drawing I can see if that far left two port is getting wet then I could be bridging the neutral and earth inside. Even if that valve is not getting a call. Tbh I only drew it yesterday and it's a great help.

Greetings. So the extension, highly insulated timber frame, SIPs etc or traditional brick and block? Under floor heating? You'll get advice on all that and more here.

How do people get a good "screen shot" JPEG from their AutoCAD drawings that are high res and good for posting up (here etc)? Cheers