Onoff

Ta...don't you though do the base tile first so the side ones sit on it and the grout line isn't so prominent? I was going to do in this order: Base Rear tiles Top tile Sides ??? And how do you cut the trim, small mitre block and what saw? Chippy mate lent me this, reckons it's great for plastic trim but I can't get on with it.

I was going to suggest you say "I'll be recording the meeting in the absence of an agenda" but maybe best to just go in and hear what they have to say. Don't agree to anything until you've had time to mull it over. Teaching you to suck eggs probably!

With the pockets do I tile around all 4 sides of the wall and then put the trim on? After the trim is on then do the inside? Seem to remember @Nickfromwales advocating the use of mitre bond to stick the trim on. Cheers.

Email them prior to it telling them you'll be recording the meeting.

This is the other "wing" off the mitre which I'm happier with. 1st row slightly off to the 3 above. Hopefully I'll get better! Going to carry on, then when all done and it's time to grout make a decision whether to smash off those 4 (6?) In the second to last photo and redo.

Love it. Haven't you posted similar pics before?

I see them primarily as a route out of chasing where someone wants an extra switch etc and doesn't want the existing decor damaged, has made a cock up etc. Or a useful addition to say a special location like a bathroom rather than a pull cord. Again say you fancy a switch by an existing window so you stand and look out & switch on an outside light. The range needs extending. The bfo white ones scream Part M and they don't do the dimmer switches in the chrome finish, ditto the IP6* ones. Chrome, IP6* dimmers next to the bath/in the shower would be great. The terminals, I think they're cheap. Would have been so much better with the constant force type sprung connectors on the Aurora Enlite stuff. Also a little recess on the case moulding to gauge the insulation length to strip would have been a nice touch (like on the Wagos). Fitting mine fully accessible. Switches on back boxes rather than screwed to the wall. Modules can be binned if they go t!ts up and all easily converted to traditional fixed wiring. I've said before, half in jest that I wonder how the receiver modules would fair against an overvoltage. Knowing how the Chinese plan 50 years ahead I've this conspiracist theory that we'll fill our ceilings with this stuff and a while after they've taken over all our utilities... Btw I'm in a sh!t mood and have a headache so...

Slightly off topic... When I've floor painted garages and utility areas I've always used a hand wire brush to abrade the surface and sometimes a cup wheel in a small grinder. Then vacuumed and vacuum again. Paint sticks/lasts so much better.

Tbh the 3rd tile up on the right is a fraction low too! Maybe I should just grout? Learning the hard way!

Ta. Done on Sunday. They're stuck fast. No prising these off. Think as you say I'd have to move the bottom 4 over to the left: If I do take them off then there's the adhesive underneath. Multitool? And what about the tanking?

OK warts 'n all: Debating smashing out the third row up as too far to the left. Close up of the screw up: Proud I ain't! My other cock up. Not sure how the grout lines either side will match: Right hand side I can fit a Screwfix pencil: Left hand side the pencil sits on top: White grout to be used. Not sure if it'll help or not.

I can cut a neat hole in a tile for sure, laying them is my downfall as the next post will show!

My knockabout multimeter / clampmeter is Iso-tech. Had it for years and RS still calibrate it!

Lad at work just bought a pair of Uni-T meters from the Far East that between them cover everything I'm sure. Around £300 the pair I think

I haven't got an MFT. Got a combo Megger IR & low resistance ohmmeter. Then a Megger combo RCD and earth loop impedance tester.

It's not a special location as in containing a bath or shower. Go for it. You might get an over zealous BC insist on a pull cord rather than a wall switch. The old wet hands switch thing. Ask him how it's different from some kitchens. I would say how are you going to be able to prove the work you have done is safe without the proper test kit? If you do get a sparks in ask for a Minor Works Certificate.

Good luck to him. Met him at at BuildIt. As an aside do Sunamp do anything / offer their products on the Continent as in France etc?

If you use the same size holes as the outer plate you can't fit in the tools to service the mixer. Like this bad boy big box spanner! 1" AF socket for the NRVs then a 17mm box spanner goes over the spindles. Whether they all still fit once the tile is stuck on for good and accumulative error raises it's head???

I do something then think "Sh!t, could have done that better!" And then beat myself up about it.

Armeg version:

Is a Cavity Master type kit any good? A few different makes around. Sure mine is 127mm not 100mm...

I think with Option 3 I'd be worried about creating cavities allowing condensation and or insect / vermin ingress.

TP? https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Softwood-Windowboard-Best-Pattern-S207-32mm-x-225mm-Finished-Size-28mm-x-215mm/p/155110

Compound cuts? Tbh wishing I could do the corner again but hey ho! Should have probably bedded the mitre tile on a much thicker bed. It's just "wrong" imo And they said it was the plastering I'd cock up!

Pretty good but there I would use cheap grab adhesive.