Onoff

Cheers. Isn't there a trick to marking this bottom tile as in where to cut it? Something to do with placing it upside down against the wall?

What's the score where the wall tiles meet the floor? Do I have a grout line or do the wall tiles just butt up to the floor? Do I leave a nominal gap and CT1 etc? Cheers

Ta. Getting a little better at it. If I'd have started out as "good" as I am now I'd have been quite happy. Pity nobody makes a tile adhesive with a day or two's set time!

Bit more done. Think I'm getting better! & making the best of an earlier crap area:

Off to find the vinegar, bicarb and an old flask...

After busting two L shaped ones earlier that were bigger I didn't chance it. The saving grace is there's a blind going there.

I'm still thinking I could have got away with the 4 tiles to the right of the window being one piece.

About 8" long? It's a reflection, I'm just out of the shower...

Goggles WERE worn! The rips to do top & side. Going to be a pita on the tanked (blue) wall where the basin pipes come out. I don't think when I tile the basin area they'll come out far enough to cover the skinny gap! The next trims I put on will go on with clear CT1 not mitre bond. Too unforgiving for an amateur like me.

Bfo Pound shop market at the mo.

Re-cut the L shaped tile. Just broke that too.

Sharpie Pro = SH!T - Washes off Chinagraph = SH!T - Doesn't touch the tile

Now equipped with a Sharpie Pro and Chinagraph pencils

Did you try that exam simulator?

Ta.....so can I keep the old olive? Wouldn't have had anything on there previous. Figuring some "lube" would enable me to nip it up that bit extra.

I'm assuming the valve body size will be different between the Honeywell and existing Tower 3-port valve? If not then can I leave in situ the existing nuts/olives on the pipe and connect straight to the Honeywell with copious amounts of Jet Blue Plus? If I have to then vague memories of replacing one years back and without the proper olive removal tool getting the old 28mm olive off without damaging the pipe was a pig. A hacksaw blade did it eventually I seem to recall. Going to source a couple of 22mm 2-ports (likely Drayton) and do all 3 valves in one hit. Again, hoping brass body size is the same as the Tower ones!

I've been marking with the Sharpie then in effect keeping the blade within the Sharpie line. Works well. My eyes are that crap I have to ditch the glasses and cut with my face a few inches from the blade / tile. I need that "definition".

Earthing therapy, love it! Reflexology worked for me so why not. Just got to avoid the fox sh!t!

What "pen" to mark tiles before wet cutting? Using a Sharpie (genuine) the water stream on the tile cutter is just washing it off?

I can genuinely say I've lost count of the times I've taken the B*B (* insert current colour) to bed. More so than the OSG, GN3 etc. Especially leading up to the exam. Are you still allowed to tag the book / make notes at the back when you take the 2382? I imagine so.

Here you go, had to go to the States to find this: https://www.callmendel.com/blog/can-your-air-conditioner-cause-a-power-surge-how-to-protect-your-home/

If the vfd goes t!ts up can't it become a regenerative load itself? RCD won't protect against the resultant overvoltage.

Brick and block. He's not sure on the cavity width etc. Expecting the drawings this week. I mentioned the Passivhaus concept, his initial reaction was "councils are less likely to approve aren't they?" Anyone with a Passive build in the Cambridgeshire area? This will be his "forever" home. Going to send him the link to @PeterStarck's blog to try and convert him! Cheers

That joint in the garden...is it intermittently "under water" as in periods of heavy rain?

Like PVA...but better: https://www.bal-adhesives.com/products/bond-sbr/ I've been using the Cementone one from Screwfix. Dodgy slab edge: Where I had to knock out the slab for some pipes: No water in the mix just SBR, ends up like a resilient stone resin.