Onoff

They do indeed cut everything but not as well imo as a dedicated saw for whatever that material is. Don't forget that once you have that diamond blade on you won't be able to cut wood or steel anymore without changing the blade. Seem to recall reading somewhere you shouldn't use the slide action if cutting metal. Seemingly, for tiles etc you can though, and I have. I do wonder how long, with the abrasive "stone" dust generated, the unit will last even with good dust extraction.

Dunno, 300x75 I'm reading one web spec 220x60 on another. I've got the Rage 3 btw not the Rage 3 +.

You have pm.

Try it. I've had my wall chasers hooked up to a 2000W woodworking dust extractor and managed near dustless chasing inside the furnished house. SWMBO didn't seem to think so though! I reckon it was just the bits by the ceiling made the dust when I had to sds chisel them out where the chaser won't go up to.

She was saying her brother did one wall with "bitumen, battens and Celotex then pb. Guessing he painted the wall first? Made a cracking job to be fair.

Evolution Rage 3 with diamond blade? I have the saw and diamond blade and can confirm it works as per the video. I've made up wooden guides to go over blocks before to get a straight line.

I know it might be obvious but you mean humidity controlled fans that kick in and EXTRACT the moist air? Would a dehumidifier system work as in retain the building heat but take the condensate out through the wall? One interesting thing is some of the original cast walls have bows in them...seemingly from new.

Thanks all. Yes, would be a ripe plot for development. Another 12' at the side also. One option she's considering is to sell.

Playing Dad's taxi yesterday and ended up at one of the kid's school friend's house. It's a pretty massive post war prefab. Solid concrete walls floor and even ceiling. Its had a shallow pitch tiled roof added some time and upvc windows to replace the original Crittall windowd replaced with generic, white upvc ones, didn't note if there were trickle vents. Up in the loft the floor is the original tar roof. The problem is cold and damp. In this case I think one follows the other. Some mould too. Air in there is just not circulating. My first thought was ewi and she (single mum) has had a quote for I think she said £12K. Out of her reach. At the mo she's battened and added PIR internally to the odd wall inside but as fast as she decorates it goes mouldy. Another option she reckons is an Envirovent unit installed in the loft. Reckons about £1500. If room vents are needed they would have to drill through the concrete ceilings. Anyone come across Envirovent? http://www.justfans.co.uk/mobile/eco-loft-positive-input-ventilation-system-piv-loft-mounted-mp- 350.html? Any other suggestions? Cheers

In section I imagine the edpm in effect comes along horizontal then turns through 90deg up the side of the upstand. I'd be particularly cautious / worried about driving on the paving close to that upturn's internal corner and splitting it.

It's 32mm pipe. An earlier thread discusses a bit more here: I have no extract system anywhere in the house at the mo. Current thinking is a small in line fan. How it's triggered, via bathroom lighting, manual switch, occupancy sensor etc is tba.

You don't have sitting water on your DPM. Totally different scenario. It's to stop damp coming up not water getting down through it. If having the membrane under concrete was a good idea they would do it on commercial roofs and I've never seen it done in 36 years.

I've also gone down the route of modifying a Geberit wall mount cistern to incorporate pan extract: Solvent weld boss: Drilled a hole and Sika Flex EBT'd: Solvent weld pipe taken up through the stud wall into the loft. Not connected to anything yet! All buried in foam:

I'll say out loud I think it insane to have an inaccessible waterproof membrane under concrete. Under removeable pavers fair enough.

Easy to tamp concrete to falls and have it stay there and not slip. See p15 of my mega thread.

Something I've often wondered as I make by bathroom evermore airtight is how MVHR handles "natural" smells. Sod's Law the wife will bring me a cuppa in just as "somebody's" let rip. There's just nowhere for it to go and it's very noticeable. Presumably MVHR shifts this sort of thing pretty sharpish?

So your architect is a dick on two fronts? Specifying a non repairable design and assuming waterproof concrete doesn't exist?

Ideally the whole roof should slope to the drainage channel. What you can end up with is an ostensibly flooded roof, aka standing water that taken as a whole (or just in isolated patches that can't drain) will exert considerable sideways pressure and ferret out any weak points. I recently saw an upside down roof with this problem. The insulation was sat atop the asphalt. Part of the solution was to cut a series of Vs in the underside of the insulation. A guy did it by hand. So neat it reminded me of acoustic tiles. How about making good then tanking the reinforced concrete area. Then laying this stuff: http://www.abg-geosynthetics.com/products/deckdrain.html With the paving on top. Still not 100% on the roof make up? Mass concrete roof EDPM Reinforced concrete Paving ?

Couldn't resist:

Surely there is an industrial strength liquid tanking membrane out there that can be applied to make good the existing substrate?

I've never seen a roof done like this. Traditionally it was concrete, asphalt on top. Then chippings. Sometimes 2 layers of building paper and pebbles or slabs. I've seen hollow pot, straw insulation, lightagg etc. The "upside down" roof came next as I remember. Concrete, asphalt, insulation, pebbles/slabs. Fairly easy to rip up should the waterproof layer fail. Then came the exotics like Sarnafil.

Sika Sarnafil?

A car port over the top would sort this... A big worry also has to be any long, lapped joints in the edpm covering the main sections of the roof. Almost screams "hot tar job" to me. That being said there are different grades of asphalt according to use; roof, loading bay subject to vehicular traffic, car parks obviously.

Look out for the bait trail!

Sod's Law that on the left, the wall fixings for the rad come dead on a grout line as does the pipe coming out of the wall. It has nothing to do with poor planning! Still, should help hide the dodgy tiling between mosaics and plain!