Onoff

Bought these and a couple of Pegler 15mm compression elbows: https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-white-chrome-straight-trv-lockshield-15mm-x/34063 Should let me put the valves up by the rad rather than down by the floor. @Nickfromwales, how many turns of ptfe tape in these fittings where it screws into the rad? Cheers

Ta. Tbh I only started thinking about it on the back of the Sunamp thread.

He. Thinking this assembly might be better? https://www.screwfix.com/p/drayton-trv4-white-chrome-straight-trv-lockshield-15mm-x/34063

Could you multipanel over a strong carcass and maybe use chrome quadrant edging?

Yep. Try it and see what you think. Whatever you do is a compromise when you go off piste!

Just take your time. See my sketch, you could drop the trim down a tad slightly below the tile so the corner of the tile sits in where the uncut leg and nib meet. Would mean a shallower angle to fill.

The towel radiator... It's going to have to sit a lot higher than I'd envisaged to look right. Currently balanced carefully on a Geberit box: So presumably I need to drop the valves lower onto the chrome 15mm stubs coming out of the wall? Then have chrome verticals coming up to the rad? Going to look strange having that trv on its own low down by the stub pipe. Thinking if I move the rad up a bit I can lose that line of rips at the cill? With hindsight maybe I'd have brought the stubs out of the wall higher up. Or should I just have the rad low? It's been a helluva long time since I've fitted a radiator and never a fancy one. Any glaring mistakes, tips etc? Cheers

Cast concrete? YouTube "concrete vanity top"

Can't believe you don't!

Any merit in using silica gel to store heat / hot water? Not sure where I'm going with this rather than a discussion at the mo but I can potentially get some foc. Looking at some in it's pink state mulling whether it could be "dried" and one thought led to another...it stores water...so why not "hot" water. Thinking maybe coupled with solar thermal, first as solar heated air to dry the gel out and make it "receptive" to being rehydrated. What then happens to the water being evaporated? In an insulated container? Would it work better under vacuum conditions?

Why was grp discounted? Remember it being discussed.

p53 / 54 details how I formed the wet room corner to falls:

Not forgetting I've fitted, an again unconventional, "wall drain".

I see you've read my thread. You'll note I made up my own steel form work to screed the wet room corner to strictly defined falls. It's come out a treat and is dead symetrical but it was a lot of work. With hindsight I might have made the fall twice as steep. Was worried about whether you would notice the fall as you have to cross the corner of the area to get to the sink. In reality you don't notice it. A big part of me doing it rather than going the pre made former route was just to prove I could.That and I'm tight! The screed mix is also a bit exotic against majority advice. Should know this side of Christmas whether it all works!

Was thinking on those lines myself when looking at this pic. This pillar with the render, plaster coming off is about halfway along the length of the lean to. I'm not sure without looking whether the twinwall polycarb is let into the wall in a slot or it just butts against the pebbledashing and the flashing sits down on it which is my suspicion. If as I say the roof slopes towards the wall despite sloping along the length water will be running straight under the flashing. Hose test time maybe! Going to try and look this weekend.

Fill with the Knauf stuff. Run finger along plastic edge to get excess filler off.

You can hold in place with wee panel pins if easier for you. Hold a straight edge against it as you affix. Get a smear of no nails on and let dry then fill. Fill over a fair distance to loose the "kick". Wet finger along the nib of the plastic so you get a nice straight edge.

Looking at the very first photo could it be that though the roof ostensibly has a decent fall down the length it should also have a slight fall away from the long side? Water is maybe running under the lead?

What aren't you getting? Stick the feckin angle on with snot, jizzum or blue tac: If you use the stuff I suggested you will need to cut one side off with a Stanley - like you suggested. Stick the remaining side to the pb with the corner nib level with the tiles. Then back fill the edge.

99% then the flaps you added are the weak point. Leaky flaps...

Back in the day I'd come across roofs being flood tested. There was a fashion too for really tall parapets to hide the roof top plant. I remember the first one ever that I saw (in Chelsea) that was pretty deep. Well tbh I didn't see it until too late. To access it you had to climb down a short ladder from a plant room. As a young apprentice, all gung ho, my slightly older, wiser colleague insisted I went first. Thinking he was being polite I went down straight down the ladder and was knee deep in mill pond still water before I knew it. How HE laughed!

Don't forget water will track to the lowest point assuming no wind driving it uphill (does happen). The worry is that the ingress point is not local to the window upstands. If it is some metres away and getting under the main edpm then that's the bugger to find. I've seen water on a large roof get between concrete and hot bonded asphalt and gradually seep to the lowest point (concrete was laid to falls). Successive Summers came and the asphalt softened enough at the low point for a caldera / carbuncle to form, 2' dia and nearly a foot high, full of water under pressure from the sides due to the sheer volume of water.

Yep. Nothing to loose...except time and money! Have you got a section drawing through these roof lights? Been involved with lead capped concrete upstands on roofs for 35 years now. The hot asphalt ones are the standard to judge all others by imo.

How about "shuttering" around the upstand say with a 4 sided "plastic" frame CT1'd to the edpm on the main roof. Then pour this in? http://www.epdmliquid.co.uk/home#sthash.jW7Ivavi.dpbs

One for the ladies, what an excellently named product: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-sealer/dp/B003T6EJ9A