Onoff

So Kevin at CT1 suggested I experiment with CT1 Power Grab & Bond as to whether it is compatible with Aquaseal tanking. Glad I did! My sample bit of ply: I'd run out as I said before of proper Aquaseal primer so primed 4:1 with SBR. Let that dry and put two coats of Aquaseal tanking membrane on. Then, on No1 sample section only I primed with Ultra ProPrimer: Two bits of tile stuck on with CT1 Power Grab & Bond: Then the "prise" test. No.1 pretty much came off by hand! Did I not leave the ProPrimer long enough to dry? No.2 though fared better imo: Undecided at the mo. Haven't got to decide tonight, still cutting tiles!

The lights working properly. It's saying "HOT, don't touch!". It takes the "30 secs"you mention to get above 60deg. It'll only go out when the temp has dropped below 60deg.

I think caulk is actually acrylic based.....like some paints.

1) Yep, grab adhesive rather than screws & plugs if wall is straight. 2) Caulk is basically paintable. Here's a cheapo one I'm using now, they do one for inside too: 3) Got a model number for that hob?

You mean Soudal low expanding foam by "Mr Soudal?" Tbh if you dampened the rear of both wall and skirting and could keep it firmly wedged in place whilst it goes off you could use expanding foam. So, grab adhesive as the ideal with Rawlpugs to back it up if required. On the hob just refer to the manufacturers instructions as to clearances. Should come with a gasket? Skirting; corners not at 90deg? Get yourself a bevel gauge: Don't forget too it's sometimes easier to cut all the skirting and dry fit to check then glue and pin all the joints together before fitting to the wall.

If the wall is that out that you can't use grab adhesive then Rawlplugs and screws and fill over. Where the skirting sits off the wall use decorators caulk.

Best then you don't use a grinder maybe! Ref extra cupboards, just be bloody careful if the wires to those sockets come down the wall when affixing new cupboards. Arrow head drills. This sort of thing. You can squirt with a plant sprayer as you drill if you want. https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-tile-glass-drill-bit-set-3pcs/53634? Tbh a small Bosch multiconstruction bit would probably do the same.

How handy are you with a hand held grinder? In the absence of a wet tile cutter a diamond blade in a grinder works for L shaped cuts around tiles. Gloves, goggles, mask & not for the faint hearted. You can also chain drill the tile with an arrow head bit then join up the holes with the tile saw.

Never realised doing it like that doesn't take you straight to the relevant post. I did what you said...not sure how though!

Ta. Done, I think...

Quite a bit here: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/4894-tilingmany-questions/?page=32&tab=comments#comment-123094 Just thinking further that if using polymer tile primer atop tanking it is better to use a polymer based "adhesive" like CT1 etc. One think I'm not sure on is how much gun type "whatever adhesive" to put on the back of the tile. On my bath deck the tiles will be say 400x100 with L shaped ones at the corner. Around the perimeter of the tile maybe but would that allow hollows? In lines but then I'd worry if water got through the grout? For a complete "bed" coverage tile adhesive may have advatages!

Non mixer: Good shout. Yep, WM & DW off mains.

I insulated an old shed from cans... What a f**king waste of time that was!

Don't know. It's only fed via 15mm from the incoming if that makes a difference? Empty it and see how long it takes to fill?

Being pedantic but SWA in insulated and sheathed not double insulated. The insulation is only around the cores. There's then a sheath around those cores and the outer sheath over the armoured. Accepted that the sheaths have insulating properties.

What are the pitfalls of having the bath cold off the mains? Regular readers might recall I've only a tiny 25gal cold water storage tank. The traditional copper hot water cylinder will just about supply enough hot for a bath but the cold can run out before the bath is cool / deep enough. Yes, I know we've discussed UVC/TS/oil combi before but I'm not in a position to do any of those. So...short term... (my short term ) could I swap the bath cold over to mains? Incoming mains is around 8/9bar but I've a pvr on it. Basin cold is on mains as is the wc. Shower is pumped from the same cylinder & cws tank. Cheers

Unless I can get a 45deg "V" trim that will slip into the gap between the tiles I reckon a convex shaped mastic bead will be the only way to get a rounded edge: The plinth lights.....ORIGINALLY I was intent on having 6 in total, 4 down the side and 2 on the end. Now with shifting to a single tile over the access panel it'll need to be 3 or 5 down the side...if 5 then with more than one on the end I've only run 6 conduits! If one plinth light on the end won't look silly I'll get away with it. On top of that, behind where the squiggly red line is, is a 45-50mm deep batten. As the lights will look better half way up the lower, half tile (nearest the floor), I'll have to drill a 22mm hole through the tile, 12.5mm ply AND the batten. Got to buy a deep 22mm Starrett now.....I think. Tallk about knock on effects, the price of making it up ad hoc!

Interesting question...Kate Beckinsale and I'd write the script...the scene where I'm using the rainfall shower for the first time! In a similar vein a mate & I had a long running discussion who could play Jack Reacher should the films be made. Dolph Lungren...Aaron Eckhart, Stephen Lang, Dwayne Johnson. Whoever we decided that at the guy in the books is something like 250lbs and 6'5" he'd need presence. Lo and behold Tom Cruise bought the rights and cast himself! (I've been told I look like Stephen Amell as Oliver Queen).

Meconium...that's what this CT1 Power Grab & Bond reminds me of! Nothing like "ordinary" CT1.

Luckily I think I've found replacement tubes thanks to @Ed Davies.

My BiL has a 2 post Bradbury. Came as 3P but only having single phase he eventually stuck a 1P motor on it after having faffed for years with a phase converter. I knocked up a simple up/down control box for him with a couple of scrap contactors. No emergency stop, all the limits removed (by him) and 3 white paint marks. When lowering look for the first mark and take your finger off the button. Don't go further than the lowest mark!

East Coast IPA o'clock! Last coat of tanking on the deck. When dry I'll get the trim on and this corner tile.

Praise indeed! Hold that thought... A wise man once said (naughty, naughty ) What he actually said was "Beware the thickness of membrane tape!"

You can build a pit that is T or + shaped to get at wheels / suspension. Used in conjunction with a beam jack across the pit of course.

Meanwhile back tiling. Just seems so wrong to be doing this out of a tube! But it's quick! Tiles weigh approx 1.3kg each. Instructions suggest a 450mm bead per kilo on "heavy vertical loading". Not sure if 3 vertical beads would be better.